My 94 Breakaway has about 115k miles. I have read the Cummins engine manual cover to cover and there's quite a maintenance schedule there. Should I really follow that? How often should I ask my mechanic to look things over?
Rick

IMHO, the most critical thing on the Cummins engine is the valve lash, that should be at least checked according to the manual, when I got my Breakaway, the first thing I did was go over the engine, 70K miles and the valves had not been touched since new! The intakes were down to 0.004"-0.006" should be 0.010" and the exhausts were down to 0.010", should be 0.020". Engine was very smooth after I adjusted the valves and checked a few other things.

The vibration damper had a very pronounced wobble and I replaced that.

Injector pump timing should be checked, if off can really effect performance/economy.

Fuel filters per schedule.

Air dryer checked and probably have decadent replaced!

Check all hoses and air lines for deterioration or chaffing.

Trans? Make sure that you have correct fluid/filters and changed per required schedule. I changed to synthetic, and again I found the filters were dated '93, so I am fairly sure the oil/ filters were never changed. They and the oil should have been changed at 25K mile sequence at least. With synthetic the sequence is much longer.

Much more but these are the basic power train checks.

quote:

Originally posted by Richard_Muise:
I have read the Cummins engine manual cover to cover and there's quite a maintenance schedule there. Should I really follow that?

As with most things, there is a little bit of overkill. On the flip side, the Cummins Manual will not tell you the reality of the real world.

Run the rack. That's mechanic speak for adjust all of your valves. Trust me, it's due.

The harmonic balancer on most RV's do not get used enough to stay balanced. Start up your coach and look for a wobble. If you can see it, it's probably too severe.

Fuel Filters should be done at least once a year, use a fuel conditioner for your tanks. I use FPPF Products.

As Rusty likes to say, and it's true, oil is cheaper than metal - change your oil at least once a year.

Timing should be checked too. If he can run a rack, he can check the timing. Usually the pump timing doesn't change, so this isn't really critical.

Belts, air filters, suction side fuel and intake hoses. Turbo boost hoses. Coolant hoses. All of these should be checked and replaced as needed.

Check the water pump for seepage at the vent. Check the fuel pump for seepage and monitor...

The tough part? It's the balancing act of paycheck versus results...

If you break down you'll be questioning why it wasn't done. If it's done, you'll be questioning if it's really needed.

Looks like my 92 would be a candidate. If all the suggested things are done what would the approximate cost be?

Hey guys,

Thanks for the great advice. Looks like I'll be calling Bill G's new mechanic.

Richard

quote:

If you break down you'll be questioning why it wasn't done. If it's done, you'll be questioning if it's really needed.

I always enjoyed telling that to airplane owners.

.

Yeah - I had an AD complied on my Bonanza's landing gear uplocks (to prevent them from seizing and not allowing the gear to extend).

First time around the patch, got three greens, but the right main was soft; got it over into the grass - $27 damage to the retractible step. Right uplock had partially seized and bent the operating rod enough to close the switch, but not to lock the gear.

Rule: "If it ain't broke, fix it until it is..."

Got an estimate of 450 to run the rack. That sound ok?

Rick

quote:

Originally posted by Richard_Muise:
Got an estimate of 450 to run the rack. That sound ok?

Rick

That sounds a bit pricey! I shouldn't take an experienced mech more then 2 hours to do, maybe even less. It is easy to get at the top of the engine.

I did mine in 3 hours with a lot of interruptions and mission creep.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
That sounds a bit pricey! I shouldn't take an experienced mech more then 2 hours to do, maybe even less. It is easy to get at the top of the engine.

If, he only asked for the rack to be run, and didn't ask for additional stuff I would agree. $450 is about twice what it should cost. Less than $250 is about right, for the rack to be run.

I've seen the top of his engine and showed him how to turn up his idle. He does have plenty of room to work.

Richard, what does the $450 include? Is he resetting the pump and changing belts too? Clean the engine? Change the filters? Replacing leaking valve cover gaskets?

Even if his shop was getting 100.00 an hour... max time 2.5 hrs... it still shouldn't cost over $250.

Thanks! I will take this up with him. I appreciate the advice.

Richard