Has anyone removed their steering wheel from a Spartan chassis? My turn signal reset is out of wack and I need to reset this but will require the removal of the wheel.

????

Do you have to remove the small center Spartan logo plastic insert or does the complete horn attachment come off?

Yep. The Spartan hub is a friction fit - pop it off and the shaft nut is there.

Thanks Rusty!

Will give it a go tomorrow!

GL - I had to do the same thing (but with the GM thingies) because the turn signal stalk was broken. I won't bore you with how I had to resolder the connections to match the replacement shaft...

I could not get the horn hub off, I took off the "Spartan" plastic center but that was a blind ally. I tried to wedge a knife between the hub and steering wheel base but it didn't budge! Need more force?

More tips??!!

Pics?


Thanks

Section 1 pages 1-1 to 1-6 of the EC-2242-Maint-Manual.pdf should have what you need.

Ed,
Not sure if this will help you, as my Spartan wheel appears to differ from the one in the manual drawing Bill provided. I had mine off, as a fireman friend with decades of Spartan firetruck experience saw the wheel hub, and said "this is a telescoping wheel." It turns out he was wrong. But not knowing this, he began turning the aluminum hub to show me; all that happened was it ultimately released the nut holding the wheel, which then popped off due to the spring under it! So, I had to learn to put it back properly. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos. Anyway, the proper way to get it off on mine is to simply remove the rubber cover with the Spartan logo on it. It just pries off easily...which makes me think yours must be different, or you'd have figured this out. Once that is off, the nut holding the wheel on the shaft is visible, although there is also an aluminum insert and other parts related to the horn which must be removed first. If it turns out yours is like mine, let me know, and I can provide more info on getting it back together properly, or take photos if need be. It did take me a few tries before I figured out how it is supposed to fit together...since all of my parts popped off all at once due to my buddies help!

I should have made clear that by "hub", I meant the rubber center piece...and it takes a knack to get back in, but I don't remember the trick. It wasn't hard to reinstall.

Maybe push the center section down and turn it a 1/4 turn... Just a guess.

I guess I have to be abit more forceful, the center rubber covered hub doesn't move or turn and I couldn't get any tool between the hub and the wheel surface to pry up. I must be stuck good.

Mine is a telescopic column.

The reason I am trying to get it off is the turn signal cancellation is off center (the wheel is centered) so the turn signal lever will not hold on when signaling to the left. If I have the wheel turned to the right a bit the turn signal lever will stay left.

Raining today so a good day to experiment again.

Although mine isn't telescopic, it sounds very much the same with the rubber top insert. My rubber insert with the logo on it simply has a molded lip around the edge, which fits into a channel in the aluminum hub. In fact, it took me a few tries to get it to firmly seat into the channel so that it wouldn't come out...just the opposite of the problem you seem to have. But my guess is that it is simply stuck in the channel from years of not being removed. Anyway, on mine, the rubber horn actuating top is nothing more than a press fit into the hub. Nothing else holding it down at all.

Mine is tilt but not telescoping. I'm beginning to believe that my steering column is much different; my covers are vinyl fabric.

Thanks Vince, mine is similar to yours, I was over-thinking this. I got the rubber cover off easily, although I broke the horn spade connector off, and indeed I found the steering wheel was not clocked correctly, The steering column shaft has flats (at least on mine for the telescoping section) and in order for the turn signal cancellation to work the flats need to be aligned with the fore/aft line of the coach and of course the wheels need to be straight ahead as well.

What I found was that the shaft was rotated to the left about 20* when the wheels and steering wheel were centered straight ahead. By aligning the steering wheel with the flats, now the cancellation actuation spot is identical for left and right turning. Of course I have to reset the steering drive shaft so that when the steering wheel is centered, the coach will be driving straight ahead.



Why the steering wheel was not centered on the shaft is a big question!! With all the work I have done on the steering (replaced the P/S box, tie rod adjustment etc.) I haven't taken the steering wheel off, only centering the wheel before reconnecting the steering drive line.

I always thought the turn signal cancellation issue was a defective cog or weak spring. Only recently I noticed that the engagement point was very different between right and left turns.

HTH

Ed,
Glad you got it sorted out. Yup...yours looks just like mine. Actually, you've given me a few things to look at more closely on mine, as my steering wheel is also cocked (left) about 20 degrees. My turn signal control seems fine, though. I'll take it apart again and check out the flats on the shaft you mentioned. Mine didn't appear to be telescoping to me when I got a look at the inside due to my friend accidentally disassembled it thinking it was, but perhaps I need to look at that more closely too. But I didn't see any mechanism for that adjustment. I had the same issue you did with the horn connection too.

If it is helpful, Now that I know how easy it is to get apart, I could take it apart again and shoot some pics.

The tilt lever goes both ways, pull for tilt, push for extension: maybe backwards but you get the idea, the knob on the tilt lever has it clearly noted which way it goes for tilt or extension.