After reading the current thread about the new batteries and charging, I have a question. I just came back from a long trip and noticed during the whole trip that the dash voltmeter swings a lot. It will go all of the sudden to around 12 Volts or a little below. The it will jump to 12.7 or 13 volts. It would also go to 14 Volts then come down. I've made the whole trip and return like that. Since this Barth is new to me, I don't know if it something normal or do I have a charging problem ( alternator not charging properly?). I've driven several hours like that without visible problem.

Real

I would get a second opinion first. Connect a multi meter or known good voltmeter to the dash lighter and see how it reads.

If there is still a problem, start out easy and cheap by cleaning all connections, including grounds, in the charging system.

How is the alternator drive belt?

How is the hydrometer reading on the battery?

This is all good maintenance, anyway, so even if you don't fix the problem, you will be a Better Person.

Good idea about the belt. The previous owner had just replaced the belt with a new one. I noticed on the last couple trips that, sometime when accelarating from a stop, I would hear a high pitch sound indicating a possible belt slippage. Would a somewhat loose belt create erratic voltage readings while cruising at 60MPH? I will rethighten the belt anyway

Real

quote:

Originally posted by Raymag:
Good idea about the belt. The previous owner had just replaced the belt with a new one. I noticed on the last couple trips that, sometime when accelarating from a stop, I would hear a high pitch sound indicating a possible belt slippage. Would a somewhat loose belt create erratic voltage readings while cruising at 60MPH? I will rethighten the belt anyway

Real

Yeah, that recent replacement and the squealing points to the belt, all right. It could already be glazed and losing traction. Sometimes a fine wire brush can deglaze a belt.

I don't know your engine, but some setups are fussy about belts. Be sure it is the right belt and buy a NAPA belt tension tool. Some supposedly correct belts can be a trifle too narrow and ride too low in the pulley, causing intermittant problems.

Perhaps someone with your setup will have specific belt information or recommendations. I have had bad luck with off brand or house brand belts. Be aware that NAPA sells two quality belts. One is made in Mexico and one is US. NAPA's top line is good. Check your belt. Their low line stuff is not worth taking even if free.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
Perhaps someone with your setup will have specific belt information or recommendations.

What is his setup?

Now would be a good time to talk a little bit about a signature profile. Some are simple with just the coach year and make - some post what kind of toad they have - some post everything (ok, so I'm guilty) under the sun - If you can log on then you should be able to have a permanent signature profile.

I know some of our members don't know about all the little stuff that Dave offers on this site to enhance content and allow for ease of use.

http://barthmobile.com/eve/personal

This is the link that will allow all registered members to edit (upper right hand corner) there public profiles. In this section you can add your Avatar (picture on left) and put in a standard ending to all post, list state and city, list email address and edit items already listed.

The signature profile is not permanent and does not have to appear in each post, you can check off if you do not want it to appear in a specific post.

My setup is:

1990 Breakaway 30Ft
5.9L Cummings Diesel
Spartan Frame
5 Speed Allison Model 542

Which should now appear in my signature if I did it right.

Thanks Bill for the signature suggestion

The cause of the belt squealing needs to be corrected (especially if you have a serpentine belt).

I've twice lost P/S and P/B due to a locked A/C compressor - once the serpentine belt broke, the second time it only locked up momentarily.

No fun.

quote:

Originally posted by Raymag:
Which should now appear in my signature if I did it right.

And now it'll appear in all of your other 20 posts.

Bill N.Y.

If your Cummins has a serpentine belt, there are a few things to check. Tensioners are known to go bad after some time and mileage, if the tensioner is loosing spring pressure then of course the belt will squeal, you should also notice an increase in engine temperature if the belt is slipping during steady driving, fan will slow down and on a pusher, that is all that cools the engine, no natural air flow thru the radiator.

You may have an alternator going bad or a battery shorting out. I had an alternator go out and all I observed was the voltage sinking, got worse with load (light on etc)have since replace the alternator with a higher power unit and had belt squeal with the new one and found that the tensioner wasn't clocked right, redrilled tensioner bracket and now is OK. Have not had time to detail the alternator change and post but will get around to it later this month.

HTH

I suggest that you utilize the search capabilities on the site and check out a few posts that discussed ground wires and problems with ground wires. I had a few of those over the years and had some great suggestions from the gang on how to find the problems.

I agree that ground problems are rampant in a RV but in this case the symtoms do not indicate ground issues. Fluctuating voltage and a belt squeal indicate either an extreme load on the alternator or an internal short in the alternator which would cause the belt to be overloaded and is slipping. On the 5.9L Cummins there is no provision to tighten the main belt, only a tensioner that has a preset tension, that as I mentioned earlier does go out and would allow slippage, reduced voltage while running and belt squeal as well.

If belt squeal was not reported then I would agree to look for any loss of voltage from corroded connectors to bad grounds.

As a side note, when I replaced my rear running lights, Barth used an inappropriate splice connector, WAY to large for the small guage wire going to the light and two of them had already pulled out. They were all removed and new light wires were soldered and insulated to the main harness.

I am finding wrongly sized butt joint connectors everywhere!

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
I am finding wrongly sized butt joint connectors everywhere!

I have found several that looked too large, but closer inspection revealed that the installer doubled back on the end before he inserted and crimped.

But, either way, the crimp butt splices were not environmentally sealed, so twenty-some years has taken its toll, even on tight splices. I am too cheap to buy environmentally sealed splices, and I have a supply of the TB splices, anyway. So I use Liquid Electrical Tape on each end. It has served me well on boats and boat trailers for decades. We also used it at work on our ramp equipment that sat outside 24/7 near the ocean.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
...when I replaced my rear running lights, Barth used an inappropriate splice connector, WAY to large for the small guage wire going to the light and two of them had already pulled out. They were all removed and new light wires were soldered and insulated to the main harness.

I am finding wrongly sized butt joint connectors everywhere!

Back in February we discussed ways to protect your electrical system and how to seal moisture out of wiring. Try this post for a refresher.

Bill N.Y.