It's a wise idea to refer those mechanical/roadworthy things to others if you have not the time nor expertise to deal with them yourself. If bedding becomes an issue, a futon or two can compensate, but nothing can compensate for a breakdown on the road...

I got it home on Friday. It has been about a year since the purchase. There were some other vehicular electrical problems that had to be addressed. The state had what I think is a 3-phase AC power input in this rig, and they'd removed much of the police specialty electronics by cutting wires. The thing runs great now.

I spent about 20 hours over the weekend, cleaning everything, removing 100 pounds of dirt and debris, vacuuming, washing, polishing, caulking.

The side compartments has carpets installed by the State. These got wet and acted like sponges, causing lots of rust damage to the compartments. The grey water tank is missing. Thanks to the hard rain over the weekend, I found the two roof vents have leaks. There is a leak near the front top of the windshield.

I have no beds in it. I have not assessed the condition of the propane tank, the roof AC units, the white and black water tanks, the furnace, the hot water heater.

I am assuming that a propane tank has to be pressure tested and it has to be removed from the vehicle to do this.

We will be at the Northeast Barth event this forthcoming weekend. Maybe air mattresses will be used, we'll see what I can figure out in the meantime.

thanks!
Matt

quote:

Originally posted by BarthBluesmobile:
I am assuming that a propane tank has to be pressure tested and it has to be removed from the vehicle to do this.

Matt

Only portable, vertical (DOT)tanks fall under those requirements. Permanently attached tanks (ASME)fall under a different alphabet soup organization and a different set of rules, and do not require certification.

But, you should get underneath and clean and repaint any surface rust. If their is any significant pitting, get an expert opinion, whatever that is.

Well, the first efforts at triage on this, in terms of the "human factors" have been undertaken. Filling the water tank revealed that a copper pipe in the galley sink faucet had been frozen and cracked. New one needed.

I need a shore power inlet. Do I go with a 30A or a 50A connection? I have two AC units on the roof, and will add a fridge and a stove or grille.

Ah yes, the generator. It does fire up, but it doesn't hold its RPM. I tried like the dickens to pull out the generator shelf, and it didn't budge. Well, what do you know, the generator shelf is WELDED in place, with some quarter inch by 2 inch straps. I don't think I'll be using the cutting torches down there, next to that enormous fuel tank. What is this called? A generator tray? A generator shelf? I need to know, so I can order a new one.

I pulled up some of the carpet in the most suspect area under the draining path from the bathroom vent. Along the back wall of the house, the back two inches of the floor have rotted out. Meeting the crew recently in the Northeast Barth rally has me fired up to get a nice floor, as I saw on the other Barth rigs. It might be best to start at the subfloor level.

I've thought about reworking the floor plan. But I don't think it is a good idea having a toilet too far away from the black water tank, and where I position that is limited due to drive wheels, the generator, and the propane tank. Your thoughts? Is there a "standard" for what side of an RV that the black water tank is on, in order work with the drain stations?

thanks,
Matt

I've had rigs with toilets & black water tanks on either side. My Regal has it to starboard, with a drain line that carries it to the dump outlet on the port side, right under the gray water tank.

It's probably a good idea to have the toilet flush directly into the black water tank. No chance of the flush line getting clogged if the stuff drops straight in.

Go for 50A. on your electrical inlet. More is better in this case, & you have 2 a/c.

Been there, done that on the split pipe, but mine are polybutyl repairable with hand-tightened hardware store fittings. Don't get me started on how hard it was to get to the leak.

If you're tearing into your plumbing, it might be an idea to look into plastic. Easier to work with than copper, no flames needed to sweat joints, easier to cut & route, etc.

Until the more qualified people weigh in, let me get my two cents in.

quote:

Originally posted by BarthBluesmobile:

I need a shore power inlet. Do I go with a 30A or a 50A connection? I have two AC units on the roof, and will add a fridge and a stove or grille.

I would go with 50A because two A/C units plus refridgerator, etc, will demand 50A service. For parks with 30A, you'll need a 30A adaptor cord.

quote:

Is there a "standard" for what side of an RV that the black water tank is on, in order work with the drain stations?

thanks,
Matt

All service connections such as sewer, water and shore power should be on the driver side of the motorcoach. RV parks are designed for them to be there and so are all of the dump stations I have seen. When you're sitting outside enjoying a beer while gazing at your Barth Custom Coach, you don't want to be seeing the connections. Unfortunately, the SOB sitting in the spot next to you will have these connections visible so place your chairs so all you see is Barth beauty not SOB ugly.

quote:

Originally posted by BarthBluesmobile:
I don't think it is a good idea having a toilet too far away from the black water tank.

Your thoughts?
thanks,
Matt

It depends.

If you always have enough water, the toilet need not be over the tank. The water will move everything along. You might have to put a little extra water in the bowl to get a complete wash-along.

If you dry camp for extended periods and need to conserve water or black tank capacity, then the toilet should be directly over the tank.

Go with 50 amp service. If you're tearing into it go for broke. Bigger is better.

Put the toilet over the tank. Less water = less water. Less likely to plug up too.

If you have an issue it's easier to see inside too.

Use plastic water lines. They are more forgiving.

need a shore power inlet. Do I go with a 30A or a 50A connection? I have two AC units on the roof, and will add a fridge and a stove or grille.

Install a 50 amp. Don't cheap out on the cord; get a good (4 wire #6) well-insulated unit, 20' in length. You must have a device to switch from "shore" to "generator"; this device will ONLY allow one or the other; a manual switch is okay, IMHO. Do you have circuit breakers in a panel or are the breakers integral with the generator? Check to see what is involved in connecting the shore power to the existing equipment. I recommend a complete re-do of the 120v electrical: install new breakers, including a 50amp main and additional breakers for fridge/etc. Make the generator secondary to the shore power.
BLACK TANK: should have a depression (sump) where the drain exits; mine is on one end (driver's side). If you're installing it yourself, and the drain is on the end, I suggest you elevate the non-drain end an inch or two to ensure good drainage.

quote:

BLACK TANK: should have a depression (sump) where the drain exits; mine is on one end (driver's side). If you're installing it yourself, and the drain is on the end, I suggest you elevate the non-drain end an inch or two to ensure good drainage.

Also take the time to install a flush-out hose and connector while you're messing with installation.

I thought I'd pop in again and give a brief status. I had not been in a rush, so I've been able to take my time and buy materials from Ebay, Craigslist, and local ads at some pretty decent prices. I'll be doing some wrenching when it get a bit warmer on some Bilstein shocks, 125/250 50A power inlet, Suburban gas stove, Dometic reefer, couch/bed, isolator. I'll do some flooring as well. I bought a 3 new 28" tall by 36" wide Hehr windows, and another smaller Hehr fixed egress window. It will be better than what I have now for making the BluesMobile better configured for civilian use. I also got another grey water tank, but I'm not certain I'm going to be able to make it fit. I'll keep looking for a tank. Flooring is also on the agenda. The kitchen counter is a candidate for replacement, though there is no need. Maybe if one of the granite counter places nearby gets liquidated..... I've got to get some bunk beds in for my boys.


3 questions for the council of wise gentlemen (and ladies):
1 - Who did Barth get upholstery done by in 87? I really like the brown they used and want to get a slipcover or something made to match.
2 - Shower.... I am thinking the installation of a new shower may require the use of a larger hot water heater. What size is good?
3 - I haven't found what I need to mount a generator on a slide out contraption. What do I call it, so I can ask for it?

Maybe the last thing I will spend some serious cash on will be a used HWH hydraulic leveling system.

My summer trip won't be in 2008, maybe 2009. I am probably going to be going to the Oshkosh air show in late July with this, I'm calling it my shakedown cruise.

Happy Motoring,
Matt

I would check on a tankless water heater--less space and unlimited hot water on demand. I saw one put in a vintage tear drop trailer.

UPholstery material is like car paint colors - they change virtually every year - Barth did their own and, like we do, they bought from designers who specified materials from any number of books and suppliers. I would take a swatch of the material (cut a few inches off the bottom of the couch under the seat or back) and go to any one of the trade upholstery suppliers in your nearest big city. Even if they will not sell directly (and most will) they can try to match the color, material, and weight from their sources. Even if the material has not sit in the sun it will have faded because the dyes age naturally. So you might either get something close or go with a contrasting color. If you see stitches pulled when you look over the back and seat bottoms you might just redo the whole thing. We did an SOB with all new foam materials using top of the line stain resistant nylon blends and spent $1800. The difference in the couch, which is also a fold out bed with all new foam and strapping/springs, in incredible. With all you are doing you don't want sagging seat areas or material that is bound to tear because of age.

Matt-I've got a white Futon in good shape if that's your solution to bunk beds. Comes with a bottom mattress and a pillow or two. Matress, pillows and covers are brand new. Some have said they make good bunk beds for the kids. And we're close to 'on-the-way' on your Oshkosh trip. Price will be right. I've got pix if you're interested.

quote:

Originally posted by Ed Chevalier:
I would check on a tankless water heater--less space and unlimited hot water on demand. I saw one put in a vintage tear drop trailer.

We have one in our Barth. Pretty neat.