1979 27'454 is the GM lower radiator hose still available? Has anyone replaced there hose that would have a part #. Do not want aftermarket if it is avoidable. Thanks Richard

My manual says 343414.

It may or may not come with a spring inside, so be sure to get one.

Search here:
http://barthmobile.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/3631087061/m/...711058503#4711058503

NT.

343414 is no longer available from GM or gmpartshouse.com. Anyone have another source? I have purchased and returned three or four hoses and looked at lots more. Help!

I have a Gates #21442 as a lower hose.

Have you considered matching your hose up to a flexible hose?

bill h:

I have had two flex hoses from Carquest auto parts. One is way too long and is rubbing on the front suspension crossmember. If I cut it short enough not to rub I will have to clamp it in the flex section. Something I am afraid would promote leakage. The next size shorter they offer is too short and rubs on the front stabilizer bar. I am working on a plan to have a muffler elbow custom bent and cut the rubber ends from some hoses to connect the elbow to the radiator and water pump. A few people have endorsed the plan. Others are not to sure.

quote:

Originally posted by Oswego John:
bill h:

I am working on a plan to have a muffler elbow custom bent and cut the rubber ends from some hoses to connect the elbow to the radiator and water pump. A few people have endorsed the plan. Others are not to sure.

How about this:

http://www.coolflex.com/cfm/welcome.cfm

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I have a Gates #21442 as a lower hose.

Have you tried the Gates 21442 yet as Ed suggested?

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343414 is no longer available from GM or gmpartshouse.com

I was able to go all the way thru to checkout at gmpartshouse.com... maybe there were issues with their website that night?

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I am working on a plan to have a muffler elbow custom bent and cut the rubber ends from some hoses to connect the elbow to the radiator and water pump.

This is how most tractor trailer truck are plumbed out. It is a good plan if all else fails. I have had my local custom exhaust shop bend many of pipe to retrofrit other hard to find coolant hoses in the past.

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Originally posted by bill h:
How about this:

The hose that Bill H is recommending looks pretty good too.

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I am working on a plan to have a muffler elbow custom bent and cut the rubber ends from some hoses to connect the elbow to the radiator and water pump.

Biggest thing to be careful about using a metal elbow is to safety wire the clamps so that the rubber hoses don't work their way off the end of the metal elbow. Most metal elbows designed for this purpose have a small bead rolled in that the clamps will seat against to prevent this type of movement. Double clamps will help but it still can move over time.

I use this tool since being introduced to it by another boater friend. He builds laundries. Nothing like being reassured about connections below the waterline.
http://www.gunk.com/menu_P3.asp it is the fourth panel down. The other thing I have found that I like is if the clamp won't take the 60 inch pounds you find that out and you don't want to use that clamp anyway.

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Originally posted by MWrench:

Biggest thing to be careful about using a metal elbow is to safety wire the clamps so that the rubber hoses don't work their way off the end of the metal elbow.

Sometimes rubber will shrink, and a leak will form, even though the screw of a conventional worm clamp has been safetied. Constant torque clamps work really well.

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Most metal elbows designed for this purpose have a small bead rolled in that the clamps will seat against to prevent this type of movement. Double clamps will help but it still can move over time.

Absent a beading tool, a smooth weld bead around the end will work, too. Double clamps are a good idea either way, particularly if the screws are staggered. Worm clamps tend to develop leaks at the screw, owing to that area's imperfect roundness.

However, I usually end up with radiator hoses that vulcanize themselves in place, with no chance of ever coming off, bead or not.

Thanks for all the thoughts. Here is how its going so far. When I was trying to order from gmpartshouse it did go through to the checkout. They took my order. Sent multiple confirming emails of registration, the order and shipping verification. 30 minutes later came another double email telling me they were out of stock and had no suggestion for me. They left a phone number so I called and was told again no chance.

No one has offered that Gates number so far and I have forgotten to bring it when I was in a few of the shops. I will try that.

The first muffler shops attempt to bend me a tube was creative but so restrictive (from ripples and stretches) as to get negative feedback from everyone I showed it to. I returned it. The second custom bender refused to try looking at the tube diameter and complex bends. He suggested the internet and premanufactured bends welded together as had been suggested by a friend. Sounded too pricey to investigate so far.

I thought I had a solution going by using two different hoses and cutting the section of each I needed. I had this arrangement test fitted with the two pieces of hose joined with a tailpipe adapter. All the technical advisors were very concerned about the hoses sliding down the straight pipe with no retention lip. I had discussed adding a weld bead with the shop guys where I work but got some negative feedback about keeping it uniform. I was out buying hose insert adaptors thinking I could get one to work but alas the radiator hoses are not normal insert sizes. I even got one of my co-workers to agree he could cut two different couplers and weld them together to make the adapter needed. Again I had size problems finding what I needed.

The aftermarket flex tube suggested shows only 24". The short flex I had before at 24" was drapped over the stabilizer bar. The output side of the radiator needs to make a hard turn to clear the stabilizer very quickly. I am not sure any flex arrangement will clear this obstruction.

More will be added as I continue.

quote:

Originally posted by Oswego John:

No one has offered that Gates number so far

The Gates site says "No Replacement" for the GM 343414 number. However, they do list a 20842 as the lower hose for a 79 P30.

www.rockauto.com also lists the Gates 20482 as the lower hose for a 79. They want $12.85. I have been happy with the service and prices from them.

Checker/Schucks/Kragen/O'Reilly wants a little more, but they might be local for you.

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/Pr...&MfrPartNumber=20842

How about a NAPA 7580? Their site says it is a replacement for the GM number, but they also say it is shorter than the 24" mentioned.

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I had discussed adding a weld bead with the shop guys where I work but got some negative feedback about keeping it uniform.

The bead is not there to seal. Sealing is done where the clamp squeezes the hose, not at the bead. The bead is there to make the tube diameter larger so the clamped area of the hose can't get over it. I have seen good smooth weld beads, smoothed-out weld beads, and even partial weld beads work.

Past owners of Jag 6 cylinders here will remember the aluminum rad hose nipple that corroded and dripped on the unfortunately located distributor. I fixed several of those by welding on smooth 3/16 wall aluminum tubing with welded beads.

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The aftermarket flex tube suggested shows only 24".

How about a couple of the right lengths with a tube connecting them together?

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The short flex I had before at 24" was draped over the stabilizer bar. The output side of the radiator needs to make a hard turn to clear the stabilizer very quickly. I am not sure any flex arrangement will clear this obstruction.

How about a flex at each end with a hard tube in between, either bent or straight?

A picture of the original hose in position might help. I can't visualize your setup because mine is later, and different.

Is this your hose?



It is a NAPA Part: NBH 8154