I replaced the water pump today bearings were flat and it was leaking a small amount of coolant.put the belt on still wanted to come off.(it aint always what you think)the vibration damper is loose .I pushed back into position with a large screwdriver taking it off Monday. I can see the rubber is in pieces .almost had to buy another belt.Has anybody replaced one yet?
lenny

I have replaced many Vibration Dampers on an 8.3L. They unbolt and come off pretty easy. You might need a device that looks like a steering wheel puller to get it off. A lady slipper or prybar works fine if you don't pry against a cover.

I will just make a wheel puller have the equipment .I still love my trade.Love to work on milling and lathes .my shop is 24 x30 and it is too small. a 40ft container and a 16 ft enclosed trailer helps.
thanks for your help Bill.
Had race cars way back when I had a major source of autos my uncle made me fix anything I broke on a car or a truck.hated the bus lift(Marmon Herrington )to work on did not like to fix it.Rusty said they have a liquid damper is it any better than the original that lasted 19 years ?
lenny

Fluidampr doesn't show one for the 8.3L - only the 5.9 and 6.7L.

Thanks rusty I guess I will go with the original. This one lasted 100,000 miles.only I can't break the 4 bolts that hold on the cross brace. A torch is in order .I will pressure wash the back first. Toooo much oil and dirt.
lenny

Have you tried an impact wrench? Alot of times the vibrations of an impact will do alot more then just straight torque...

One word of caution: A vibration damper is engine specific and should be matched to the s/n of your engine. These are balanced to match. Your engine may be internally or externally balanced and it makes a huge difference. I would get the new one from Cummins to be safe. You can use a 1" breaker bar with an impact socket and a long pipe to loosen the bolts. Extreme heat will be transmitted to the front seal and either melt or warp it leading to leaks. If you have a lot of oil type crud in the damper it has proabably been heated in the past. Never re-use the bolts. Good luck.

there is a brace in the back of the motor home that has to be removed to get at front of the engine .It has nothing to do with the motor if you do not remove you can not get at the damper.lenny

Ordered the balancer from cummins not bad $427.00 hope it is not a rip off. Still cant get the back brace off.Judy will be power washing the Barth while I use a torch to heat the nuts.I will pay for it when it comes in. If you look at the panel that runs from the bumper to the brace it is also in the wayI will have to bend it or take off the bumper.
lenny

That's why I always replace any bolts with stainless steel. While these are ridiculously expensive at your hardware store or auto parts house they can be purchased at fastener supply houses directly. If you have any friends with a business and appropriate sales tax resale or exemption forms they are very reasonable. For instance, If I go to ACE a 1/2-13 hex nut in stainless steel is $1.40. I buy them at the supplier for $7.23 per 50! That's 1/10th retail.

http://www.nutsandbolts.com/v1...ess-steel-grade.html
http://www.nutsandbolts.com/grade-8-bolts.html
http://www.boltdepot.com/faste...olt-Grade-Chart.aspx
If you are using SS I would advise using an anti-seize compound.

I was G.M.at a die shop can and will get the proper bolts. just removed the cross brace . It was easy with the rite tools now just waiting for the balancer to get in. needed a 1/2 breaker with a 3 foot length of pipe the crossmember is off now, just waiting. Thanks for your support
lenny

Stainless is not always the answer proper tensile strength is.Never use bolts that have been used with a torque wrench to a heavy torque.The auto industry always wanted the once used bolts thrown away they never are the same once you use them . It is just a safety thing but it works can't be sued.That can be expensive .
lenny