The last few times we used the Onan extensively it seamed the choke was kind of doing whatever it wanted. Took it to the RV shop today and their Onan wrench found a linkage disconnected, so yeah, it was flopping around. He also checked the system and got the cockpit starter button working again. Got the LP topped off and system leak checked, so we should be good to go for Talledega in 3 weeks. Another $250 bucks down the tube but as they say, peace of mind- priceless!

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Originally posted by Danny Z:
Another $250 bucks down the tube but as they say, peace of mind- priceless!

But, had you driven to the Choo-Choo GTG we would have fixed it for free.

Yes, I know, gas isn't free

Glad it worked out for you Danny!!!

Good generator techs are rare jewels. If this guy is one, and did a general checkout, which it sounds like, the money might have been well spent. Lots of folks have spent more and gotten less.

Not all sure he did such a great job. The gen starts good, but watching the choke needle, which is why I brought it in originally, it just goes back to the middle. Turning on the roof air makes the choke needle go to the middle, while turning the roof air off seems to make the needle go to the off position. I understand the nead for more power when the air is on, but I don't understand why it should come about by choking the engine. Is this how it works? I'm going back to the shop tomorrow and don't want to piss anyone off but I'd like to know as much as possible going in.

No, that isn't how it works, once the engine has been running and stabilized, the choke shouldn't come on at all. Most gas units have a vacuum pull off pot that will pull the choke off once it has reached running RPM. If the load causes the choke to come on, sounds like the choke actuator is to aggressive, when the load is applied, the intake vacuum will go down, when running no load, the intake vacuum is higher because the throttle is more closed and maybe pulling the choke off.

Is this a LP generator? If it is I don't think it should have a choke, or more importantly, it should never come on if it is there. Mine is a LP unit and it was a converted gas unit as all Kwyatt LP units were and I took out the choke completely.

It's an old gasser. I stopped back at the RV place today and talked to the tech who did the work. He agrees that things aren't exactly right, and drew me a diagram with a couple tweeks to try. The owner of the shop was NOT happy, he apparently doesn't like RV owners to know anything about their RV, but said if I bring it back in they'll fix it.
It's a very flimsy coil spring apparatise and I probably got it out of wack when the linkage came apart and I was trying to adjust it to stay open. Gonna go play with it for a while and I'll let you know what I find.

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Originally posted by Danny Z:
I stopped back at the RV place today and talked to the tech. The owner of the shop was NOT happy, he apparently doesn't like RV owners to know anything about their RV.

LOL. Gotta love it.

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Gonna go play with it for a while.

Two things:

1. Wire the choke open. If it starts OK, let it warm up before putting an air conditioner load on it. This could work, depending on your own set of variables and conditions.

2. Use a paper clip and rubber band to hold it open after warm up. I did this successfully on a trip until I could get home for a proper repair.