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7/12 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
On a 92 Breakaway I have no voltage to the clutch,checked freon and have good pressure. Fans work when I push the switch in. Could someone tell me if there are fuses for just the air? | ||
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12/12 |
I have a p-32 chassis but I just had the same problem and I traced it to what seems like a thermo coupler attached to the evaporator WAAY out of reach in the front compartment. Lloyd | |||
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2/16 Captain Doom |
There should be high and low pressure cutout switches; sometimes these are combined into one unit. Jumping the connector will turn on the compressor if the switch is faulty. Some systems also employ a relay, but there's no telling where that is if there is one, but likely in or near the engine compartment. If the fans run, it's likely not a fuse. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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7/12 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
I traced the juice to the low pressure switch,it has juice going in but nothing coming out.When the clutch is jumped the sight glass on the dryer is clear showing no bubbles I tapped the low pressure switch and the compressor clutch kicked in. I wonder if the switch could be bad. I'd replace it but don't want to loose the freon. | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Ne supra crepidam sutor judicaret. I should probably "stick to my last", but many systems allow for the pressure switch to be changed without freon loss. Maybe yours is one. What system do you have? Here is what one type of pressure looks like. In the end view, note the projection inside, which depresses a valve to allow the switch to read pressure when screwed fully in, and allows the valve to close before the valve is fully unscrewed. This might not be what you have, but perhaps it will give you an idea of what to look for. Perhaps a dealer will have a new switch that could tell you something. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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7/12 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Thanks Bill for the picture and the infro. I have played with air units but never ran across having to change this switch. Does makes sense though to have a valve. I just had to bump mine and it would work , today I tried it and it started without the bump. Maybe I'll leave it and it will be OK. Thanks again | |||
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7/12 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
3 years and the bump doesn't work as it did in the past. Compressor won't kick on, freon is full. has juice to the pressure switch and nothing coming out. I looked at a few low pressure switches and can't seem to find one to match mine. it has 4 wires out . Only 2 connect. I tried to take it off and can't seem to get anything to turn. since tubing is alum hate to put alot of pressure on the fittings | |||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Did you take a psi reading? Yeah... I would hate to break an aluminum tube too. Have you given any thoughts to just run the 2 wires together? If your AC doesn't cool as efficiently as it did in the past, hook up your gauges and check the readings. I'd check the readings each year if I had to jump out my low psi switch. If one year, you have low psi, change out the switch at the same time you refill it. Chances are, you won't ever have to fill it anyway and you know your system is tight... no leaks after 17yrs. For myself, I would take the risk. But, that's just me. BTW: Never heat the fittings to loosen them up. If freon is exposed to a flame, it becomes Phosgene gas aka Mustard Gas. This was used as a chemical weapon extensively during WWI.
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