Just a caution note to those who use a plug adapter to go from the 30amp style plug to a regular extension cord grounded plug. I know of a fellow who just about lost his rig to an electrical fire when driving rain penetrated the plug-in connection and shorted the wire. The extension cord was draped over the license plate bracket and the rig was undercover in a shed with the back open to the weather. An electrical fire ensued, melting the taillight assembly above, melted the fiberglass (not a Barth) and damaged the paint. I would've thought the main breaker that the cord was plugged into would have tripped but this was not the case. The neighbour noticed the flames up the back of the unit and notified the owner. Just thought I'd pass this story on so others can be aware of where you rest extension cord plugs. Resting the connector somewhere on the coach probably isn't a good idea, perhaps it would have been better off on the ground?

Thanks for the heads up. The fiberglass coach should not have allowed it to ground out. That driving rain must have allow it to seek ground. Surprised that the GFI didn't kick in.

When I installed my outside plug I hooked a GFI circuit breaker for pools to it. Never had it trip and works very well.

GFI: Ground Fault Interupt

A #14 wire, 100-foot-long Walmart extension cord serving a 25-foot-long 30amp shorecord, which then carries the coach, is not good but occasionally unavoidable. Is he sure the rain is the problem? A good water short would be more likely to blow the breaker, while an overload would pass through the coach fuses/breakers and shorecord and only heat up the extension, likely at the plug. If the extension is 100' it could cook near the coach and cool by the time it got to the breaker so the breaker didn't trip. Also, the breaker may have been 50 years old and faulty. Lots of variables here, and I agree: watch where you run the non-Barth electrical stuff.

Another vote for GFIs. They can be lifesavers and are required on outside or bathroom outlets in many jurisdictions. I have them in the house kitchen on account of all the appliances and metal grounds. I put them in my sons' bedrooms just in case they did the boy scientist thing like I did as a kid. Lots of RVs have the bath and outside outlets on GFIs. I have been embarrassed more than once forgetting that.

The 30A-15A adaptor that came with my SOB melted itself a few days aftaer I got it...I use a 12 ga 100' extension cord...there was little load on the circuit. I use a concrete block on end, and put the adaptor in one of the holes, off the ground.

Two years ago, at a destination park, plugged into a 30A outlet with my 50A/30A pigtail, I smelled burning rubber. No sign of problems anywhere in my coach or the hookup, and the only thing operating was my converter, so I forgot about it.

The odor got stronger, I went outside again, and found smoke coming from the power pedestal. When I lifted the cover, my plug was on fire. No breakers popped on the coach or the pedestal, but the blades on the 30A plug were scorched, the rubber housing nearly burned off. No sign of excess heat anywhere but in the plug itself.

Apparently there was enough resistance in the plug or the outlet to create enough heat to start a fire.

Double checked the outlet and the breaker, installed a new pigtail, and everything was fine.

Why didn't a breaker blow?

"Why didn't a breaker blow?"

The breaker didn't trip because:
(most likely) The amps going through the plug never exceeded 30. A loose connection between plugs and/or a loose male stud and/or a loose female receiver generated enough heat to melt the neoprene plug but not enough heat got through to the breaker to trip it. These things will sit and cook over time until something melts or flares. You checked the breaker and it worked fine manually - probably means it was ok. The fact that a new 30>50pigtail (the only variable changed) solved the problem almost surely means a poorly-built male 30amp plug. Adapters nowadays may be found many places; they're inexpensive; and most are cheaply made. If you are a purist or a belt AND suspender guy buy your own heavy duty cord, a 30 amp RV maale plug and 50 amp RV female plug (receptacle), and build your own - instructions come with the plug, and use #10 or #8 cable. This has a benefit in that you can make it longer than the usual pigtail which is so short the whole heavy assembly is hanging from the plug in the pedestal.
PS: How many amps are pulled just to recharge the batteries when you first stop after an 8 hour drive?

quote:

Originally posted by Gunner:
"Why didn't a breaker blow?"

PS: How many amps are pulled just to recharge the batteries when you first stop after an 8 hour drive?

Not much, because the engine alternator should have charged 'em. But if one plugged in with the matteries discharged, the current would be limited by the converter/charger. With a 60A 12V converter/charger, the 120VAC current draw would be around 7A.

You guys are making me gladder and gladder that we never plug in.