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4/11 |
Hi my Barth is starting to spend more time on the road than in the shop, it feels good to get this stuff cleared up. Have one can't quite figure out however. The water pump runs for about 3-5 seconds about every minute. Now this has done this before and I found a water leaks under the sink, and another leak by the bathroom sink, and then a third leak to the ice maker on the refrig. I also needed to replace the pump due to a leaking head, so I got the same type and put it in 4 weeks ago. Now with the other leaks I found water and wet spots, with this thing I can't find any leak anywhere. I have been in the same spot now for 3 days and have left the pump on the entire time. The water use from the fresh water tank is very little only from washing dishes and the toilet. I don't have any wet spot under the coach nor can I find any wet spot inside the coach, under the sink, in the luggage compartment, the faucets don't drip, the toilet is not running. So with the pump groaning for 5 seconds each min for three days I would expect that there would be a wet spot some place. I was also attached to city water the 5 days before in another park at 70 psi and also had no wet spots or water anywhere. So I am assuming there is not a leak and either the check valve on the pump is bad, New pump 4 weeks ago, or a pressure switch is bad but when it runs it shuts off normally. Any suggestions and how to check? Also the auto fill feature works great and the tank is full to the top. When I move the coach the water flows out the overflow siphon down about 2 inches but only after I move the coach. Is this normal? Tom Tom Loughney Barthless.... | ||
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03/22 |
I have had a similar issue with the pump doing a little grunt every now and then. Found that if I cycled the auto fill button a few times it would stop. As you probably have found by now, when the pump is on and the auto fill valve is opened, the pump will go on. In my case, I think there might have been something in the auto fill valve that would let the pressure bleed off. I also have a very touchy kitchen sink valve. If I don't push it in the middle and only use the lever to shut off the water, it will have a very small drip and will cause the pump to cycle. If you are not using water and can not find any water spots/dampness, this is all I can think of. Ed 94 30' Breakaway #3864 30-BS-6B side entry New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP Allison 6 speed Spartan chassis K9DVC Tankless water heater | |||
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"When I move the coach the water flows out the overflow siphon down about 2 inches but only after I move the coach. Is this normal?" Does it flow out during the move? If so, it's because the water sloshes around, of course. If it occurs AFTER the coach stops and is stationary - no logic. NOTE: the plastic tank top will sag when empty, and may "bow up" under incoming water pressure; the top - when not under pressure from incoming water - may sag and force water out the overflow after a move. ??? "You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood | ||||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
A slightly leaking check valve in the pump can cause pressure to bleed back into the pump, then the pressure switch will sense the low pressure and run the pump until the pressure builds up. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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The Old Man and No Barth |
Autofill valve problems were discussed at length here some time ago. I had the same problem & cured it as MWrench did by cycling the autofill switch. It worked for me for awhile, but in the end I installed a manual shutoff ahead of the autofill valve & kept it closed most of the time. No more burping water pump. | |||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
70lbs of psi? That seems kind of high... Like Bill H. I've had the same problem with a bleed back in the pump. The next time this happens, which should be in about 30 seconds, slightly tap on the pump with a hammer. Insert cliche about mechanics only needing a hammer and a Vise Grip here. But hey, if it works. In my case, that would stop mine from cycling on and off until the next time it would kick on from using something. I theorized that the valve would stick and the slight rap would cause it to seal again. Since replacing my pump, it doesn't do it anymore. 70lbs of psi... maybe you've weakened the contacts for the high psi cutoff/cut in switch by compressing the spring too much??? A guess only. If you install an inline psi gauge, you can see what the cutoff/cut in readings are. Just a thought, when I hook up, I use an external water psi regulator. I also do not have an auto fill valve, my coach uses a manual shutoff valve at the fitting in the tank. Like your coach, after filling the tank, I leak water from sloshing around. It comes out of the vent at the top of the tank. If that wasn't there, the tank would rupture when you fill it up. Don't be tempted to put a shutoff valve there, it'll only cause more problems than dripping out while driving.
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Yeah. 45 is usual.
Usually, the gravity fill also acts as a vent. I have removed the gravity fill on ours and welded a bung on top of the tank for an overboard vent. And, of course, the pressure fill valve is manual. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
I thought 70 lb. was pretty high too. I have and recommend a pressure regulator that fits between the hose and the coach connector. It's just a little brass thingy that only cost about 14 bucks. A lot cheaper than a flooded coach! I use it whenever I'm hooked up to shore water, especially at nearly empty State Parks where the water pressure is sometimes equal to a fire hydrant. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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Yo, Tom! I just remembered: My coach has a (mechanical) pressure regulator built-in the (large round chrome) water inlet assembly; no doubt yours has the same, since they are essentially twins. If you want to check, remove the screws and the assembly will pull forward - one can then see the regulator. "You are what you drive" - Clint Eastwood | ||||
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3/23 |
My system is copper pipe and copper tubing. The cycling with attendant hammer at end of pressure build-up was less than Sterling in the middle of the night. I added a pressure surge tank or accumulator to the system. It has a discharge capacity of about one gallon. This eliminates almost all cycling, dampens the hammer and I usually turn off the pump at night since there is enough water in the surge for one or two hand washings. One link is here http://www.watertanks.com/category/48/ Tim | |||
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4/11 |
I think the sagging water tank has something to do with the water coming out when I move the coach. I did not fill the tank up 100% today but left a little air, the water was above the overflow however, and when I moved the unit and drove it no water came out. So when it is 100% full the pressure from the top can start the siphon and away it goes. The autofill may be the problem with the groaning pump, I ran it before leaving and shut it off before it started to complain and the pump did not groan. I need to watch that. Gunner I am headed to Fort Worth in the next few days and would like to meet you if possible. I am in Hot Springs now and it is just too cold for a guy from Thailand here. 50 in the day and 35 at night is way too cold for me. So I changed the route out west to be much more south. My email is tomloughney@gmail.com Phone 201 895 2546 Tom Tom Loughney Barthless.... | |||
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