well curtis have orignal converter and inverter spare if u need one tks.. looking good

So I figured I needed to make one more trip up to the Barth before I head back to school, but more importantly to figure out why the engine wouldn't start last time!

So after my dad got home from work on Saturday night around 11:30pm, we headed up to the Barth (about a 3 hour drive)

We woke up the next morning, Sunday, and immediately started troubling shooting what the problem could be.

Here is the Barth that morning with everything set up ready to get to work






Here are the tools I brought along this time...less than the first time, but I always bring more than I need!


I had the starter tested by an very reputable rebuilder, and he told me it was it fine working condition, so it wasn't that. With the starter bolted back up, it engine would still turn over very slowly, even with the plugs out. I thought maybe a solenoid wasn't giving the starter enough power, or the neutral safety switch was effecting something, but all those all proved to be in working order. So then I hunted for the chassis to engine block ground strap. It appeared to look fine to me, but I decided to check it as outline by my manual. And sure enough it was the problem. After replacing the ground strap, the engine cranked over as it should, and fired on that first half of turn of the ignition!

I let the engine idle for about 10 minutes, then went ahead and changed the oil again. The oil was much darker than I thought it would be, considering I changed it less than 2 months ago and didn't even drive more than 3 miles since than.

After that, I drove around my Grandma's side yard a little bit, then went ahead and parked it when it would sit for the winter, till I can get up to it next time.











My Grandma was so excited to see it up and running again, all cleaned up, than she wanted me to to park it right in the front driveway in front of the house! She kept telling me how great it looked, just like the day they bought it. She even brought out some pictures from when they went to see it when first considering to buy it.

I finished cleaning up the inside some more, and then went around and sealed up any possible water leaks and anywhere I thought something could get in that I didn't want in there.









All in all, it was a very exciting weekend, and I was very happy with the way everything turned out!



Now onto the brakes...and why my pedal won't come back up...

-Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by Curtis H.:
Now onto the brakes...and why my pedal won't come back up...

Does it stop with the pedal? Can you lift the pedal back up and then step on it to get it to stop?

Yes? Your clevis or pivot point is rusted. Where you see the pedal pivot you might need to disassemble and lube up. It happens sometimes. Just pull it apart and lube the pivot points and clevises and you should be good.

Mailed your CD on the 18th... Did you get it yet?

Curtis,
Great Pictures
Great Job
Wonderful Story.

Congratulations,
Nick

Wonderful!

quote:

Originally posted by Curtis H.:
Now onto the brakes...and why my pedal won't come back up...

quote:

Does it stop with the pedal? Can you lift the pedal back up and then step on it to get it to stop?

Yes? Your clevis or pivot point is rusted. Where you see the pedal pivot you might need to disassemble and lube up. It happens sometimes. Just pull it apart and lube the pivot points and clevises and you should be good.

It may be that the return spring has broken.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
It may be that the return spring has broken.

Dick Dubbs mentioned a heavier spring earlier but Curtis never commented on it. Oh course, keep it simple and look to see if that spring is missing or broken.

Curtis, why are the rear tailights missing?

With any problem, I revert to Occam's Razor, which to a mechanic means: "Suspect the simplest things first".

Gus's Model Garage (Forget about it if you didn't subscribe to Popular Science in the '50s) would have said, "Check the easiest things to reach first."

Actually, Gus often did say that...

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Does it stop with the pedal? Can you lift the pedal back up and then step on it to get it to stop?

Yes, it stops when I hit the pedal, but I can pull it back to release the brakes.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Mailed your CD on the 18th... Did you get it yet?

Not yet, but I'm keeping my eyes open


Thanks for the complements Nick

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
It may be that the return spring has broken.

I didn't get a chance to look at it. I was only Up North for one a a half days. Honestly, I was just so happy I got the engine to start like it does now, I didn't really think of looking into it.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Dick Dubbs mentioned a heavier spring earlier but Curtis never commented on it. Oh course, keep it simple and look to see if that spring is missing or broken.

I'll have to take a look for this next time I'm up at the coach. Where is this spring located? Right inside the cab off of the pedal? Where does this spring hook to?

If it is not the return spring, where should I look next?

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Curtis, why are the rear tailights missing?

I took them off to clean them up in my down time. Is there somewhere to buy them new?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
With any problem, I revert to Occam's Razor, which to a mechanic means: "Suspect the simplest things first".

I always try to follow this strategy myself Rusty, but sometimes I do get a little excited and it's hard to keep my mind on one thing


Thanks for all the comments guys and more importantly pointing me to the chassis to engine block ground strap.

I'll be heading back to school soon, but that just means I get to plan my next move on the Barth for when I come home (but who knows when that could be!).

Thanks Everyone
-Curtis

WooHoo

Hello everyone!

I know it has been awhile since I've been around, but I'm planning to head up and see the Barth in the next week or so.

I would like to find some used tires around home here and throw on the front to take the Barth for a test drive. The tires on the front now are completely shot but I don't feel like buying new tires until the time is right.

So my question is what size tires should I be looking for?

Thanks guys, I hope everyone is doing well!


-Curtis

Curtis, I hope you take my advice and buy new tires. A blowout on a moter home can be a disaster, Check some of the post regarding tires. Both Michalin and Goodyear have good info on RV tires. I know as at your age you hate to spend the Grand + on a set of tires, But Brakes and Tires are the best place to invest money in your Barth. Maintain good tires and you be good for the next 7-10 years. Besides good tires handle better and by buying them now you get to enjoy them, not the next owner. Your data tag list your tires as 7.50R16s. Doorman

I'm definitely intending to purchase new tires, but I just want to take it around the block for now. I don't want to purchase new tires at this point just for them to sit. My front tires are both dry rotted and bald with steel showing through looking as though they are going to let loose any second now. I just want to safely move it around the yard and down the road a mile to the gas station for now and I will most definitely purchase new tires when I'm ready to travel anywhere more than around the block.

Thanks for the advice

Please let me know when you're ready to go "play" with her...

Heck, I have a decent set of 16" steer tires I would have taken to the Milford GTG for you had I of know.

Seeing that I was your age once I might as well educate you instead of telling you it's a bad idea. BTW: It's a bad idea.

Besides, I would have just ignored a person like me back then so I think the better option is "Arming You With Some Facts".

First thing - Do not put on a tire with a P as the first number. Example P225/60R16 - These are Passenger car tires!!!

Most tire shops have a rack they go to when they sell used tires. Junk yards too... You'll just need to figure out how to read the tire code info so you don't wind up with a tire that looks good, but is older than the ones you've got on there now.



3902: 39th week of 2002.

A three digit code was used for tires manufactured before 2000. Example of one: 379 means it was manufactured in the 37th week of the 9th year from that decade.
In this case it means 1989 or 1979 or ???.

Tires manufactured in the 1990s, the same sequence, but now there's a triangle Δ after the DOT code. So, a tire manufactured in the 37th week of 1999 would have the code 379Δ.

From 2000 on the 4 digit code is like above. Same rules apply. So, for example: 2701 means the tire manufacture date is... 27th week of 2001.

Apologies in advance for pulling this one out...

Your Grandfather would want me to tell you this...
... Do not use a tire that is more than 6 years old -
... Do not use a tire that is more than 6 years old -
... Do not use a tire that is more than 6 years old -
... Do not use a tire that is more than 6 years old -

---

I copied everything below from a site that I am a reluctant fundraiser for... www.nhtsa.gov - seeing that I, and the rest of you paid for this info, I have no problems with copying their work.

---

P
The "P" indicates the tire is for passenger vehicles.

Next number
This three-digit number gives the width in millimeters of the tire from sidewall edge to sidewall edge. In general, the larger the number, the wider the tire.

Next number
This two-digit number, known as the aspect ratio, gives the tire's ratio of height to width. Numbers of 70 or lower indicate a short sidewall for improved steering response and better overall handling on dry pavement.

R
The "R" stands for radial. Radial ply construction of tires has been the industry standard for the past 20 years.

Next number
This two-digit number is the wheel or rim diameter in inches. If you change your wheel size, you will have to purchase new tires to match the new wheel diameter.

Next number
This two- or three-digit number is the tire's load index. It is a measurement of how much weight each tire can support. You may find this information in your owner's manual. If not, contact a local tire dealer. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.

M+S
The "M+S" or "M/S" indicates that the tire has some mud and snow capability. Most radial tires have these markings; hence, they have some mud and snow capability.

Speed Rating
The speed rating denotes the speed at which a tire is designed to be driven for extended periods of time. The ratings range from 99 miles per hour (mph) to 186 mph. These ratings are listed below. Note: You may not find this information on all tires because it is not required by law.
Letter Rating

Speed Rating
Q: 99 mph
R: 106 mph
S: 112 mph
T: 118 mph
U: 124 mph
H: 130 mph
V: 149 mph
W: 168* mph
Y: 186* mph

* For tires with a maximum speed capability over 149 mph, tire manufacturers sometimes use the letters ZR. For those with a maximum speed capability over 186 mph, tire manufacturers always use the letters ZR.

U.S. DOT Tire Identification Number
This begins with the letters "DOT" and indicates that the tire meets all federal standards. The next two numbers or letters are the plant code where it was manufactured, and the last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. For example, the numbers 3197 means the 31st week of 1997. The other numbers are marketing codes used at the manufacturer's discretion. This information is used to contact consumers if a tire defect requires a recall.

Tire Ply Composition and Materials Used
The number of plies indicates the number of layers of rubber-coated fabric in the tire. In general, the greater the number of plies, the more weight a tire can support. Tire manufacturers also must indicate the materials in the tire, which include steel, nylon, polyester, and others.

Maximum Load Rating
This number indicates the maximum load in kilograms and pounds that can be carried by the tire.

Maximum Permissible Inflation Pressure
This number is the greatest amount of air pressure that should ever be put in the tire under normal driving conditions.

UTQGS Information (Uniform Tire Quality Grading Standards)

Treadwear Number
This number indicates the tire's wear rate. The higher the treadwear number is, the longer it should take for the tread to wear down. For example, a tire graded 400 should last twice as long as a tire graded 200.

Traction Letter
This letter indicates a tire's ability to stop on wet pavement. A higher graded tire should allow you to stop your car on wet roads in a shorter distance than a tire with a lower grade. Traction is graded from highest to lowest as "AA","A", "B", and "C".

Temperature Letter
This letter indicates a tire's resistance to heat. The temperature grade is for a tire that is inflated properly and not overloaded. Excessive speed, underinflation or excessive loading, either separately or in combination, can cause heat build-up and possible tire failure. From highest to lowest, a tire's resistance to heat is graded as "A", "B", or "C".

Additional Information on Truck Tires



Tires for light trucks have other markings besides those found on the sidewalls of passenger tires.

LT
The "LT" indicates the tire is for light trucks.

Max. Load Dual kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a dual, that is, when four tires are put on each rear axle (a total of six or more tires on the vehicle).

Max. Load Single kg(lbs) at kPa(psi) Cold
This information indicates the maximum load and tire pressure when the tire is used as a single.

Load Range
This information identifies the tire's load-carrying capabilities and its inflation limits.

Snow Tires
In some heavy snow areas, local governments may require true snow tires, those with very deeply cut tread. These tires should only be used in pairs or placed on all four wheels. Make sure you purchase snow tires that are the same size and construction type as the other tires on your vehicle.

Bill NY. Thank you for the education on tires. That is the most comprehensive collection of data that I have found.