Ok, so Spring Break is coming up, and instead of going to Cancun or Miami Beach like most people my age, I'm going to scope out the Barth (and this time I'm serious! unless it snows another foot this time like last time!)

I plan to bring it home this May.

So when I go up there now, I'm plan to take lots and LOTS of pictures, and yes Nick, I'm make sure and snap one of the data tag!

I'm planning on draining the oil, and filling it up with a light weight oil and draining whatever fuel is left in it if any whatsoever.

I'll be returning at the beginning of May to do my major work to bring it home like replacing all the fuel lines, radiator hoses, tires, belts, and anything else that needs attention.

Anything else you Barth experts would recommend to check into at this time?

Let me know

Thanks
-Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by Curtis H.:
I'll definitely make sure so replace the radiator hoses, when I'm doing all the fuel lines and everything else, being in college and all I certainly cannot afford a new engine!

I'm pretty sure he's telling you to do this BEFORE you drive it home. Just making sure I'm reading this right and you're catching our advice...

We've had more than one member drive their Barth home and blow up the engine because of a radiator hose. Dave Bowers, founder of Barthmobile, had such an incident.

I went back an re-read what was suggested. It seems that everyone has given you sound advice. The offers of help by some members were very generous, you might be in better shape if you accept their help and advice.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
I'm pretty sure he's telling you to do this BEFORE you drive it home. Just making sure I'm reading this right and you're catching our advice...

We've had more than one member drive their Barth home and blow up the engine because of a radiator hose. Dave Bowers, founder of Barthmobile, had such an incident.

I went back an re-read what was suggested. It seems that everyone has given you sound advice. The offers of help by some members were very generous, you might be in better shape if you accept their help and advice.

I certainly plan on following every ones advice, however I'm not driving it home now. I don't even plan on starting it, until May. Right now, or in 2 weeks should I say, I just plan to take pictures and see what parts exactly I will need when I go to bring it home. I'm just trying to get a better idea of what I'm working with here so I can be more prepared when the time comes to this thing home.

Hello Everyone!

Just got back from 2 days with the Barth, and have lots of pictures to share.

I got to the 1984 Barth Regal 25' at 3pm Monday March 17th, 2009 and here is how I found the motorhome.











The license plate was last tagged in 2003, so I figure 6 years max since it has been started or driven

I first drained the oil. The motorhome sank down in the mud some, so I had to jack it up in order to get under it and take out the drain plug. I brought and assortment of 2x6's and wood blocks, along with a floor jack and bottle jack.





I took the oil drain plug out, and realized it's not a normal drain plug. It looks like there is some kind of quick release on it or something. Anyone know what it does special?


Here is the oil I drained out the the 454 engine. I was surprised with how clean it was. It was not milky/cloudy at all.


I then went inside the Barth and removed all the plug wires. I sprayed Kroil penetrating oil on all 8 spark plugs and let it sit for a little while while I cleaned everything up and took some pictures.





I pulled out all 8 spark plugs, but forgot to take a picture of them
Although they were black and fouled, they were not at all rusted and all came out fairly easy.

I then filled each cylinder with about 1/2 qt of 2 cycle engine oil, or at least until not more would go in. The filled the engine with a 10W40 oil, 6 quarts worth.

I WILL NOT START THE ENGINE WITH THIS OIL IN IT

I will drain all the oil once again, and will it with fresh oil, 5 qts I believe. I used the 2 cycle oil to free up the rings if they were seized up or anything.

I then replaced all the spark plugs hand tight and took some more pictures.

I forgot a picture of the carburetor, however it was very clean. It was not gummed or anything, just clean. I'm not sure about the jets or anything, but it looks good.

Here are some pictures of the interior










I will need to get a new 3 way fridge. The one in it stopped working, and my grandpa replaced it with this one for the time being until he got the correct one.



Overall, I'm very happy with the condition of the Barth. It will definitely be a lot of work, but it will be well worth it. Everything is very solid inside and outside, and I should have no problem getting it started in 8 weeks when I go back up there to bring it home.

Here is the motorhome as I was leaving



Here is my grandpa's other motor home, another project for another day. It's a late 70's GMC Palm Dale I believe. It isn't built anywhere to the quality that the Barth is built to.



And last but not least, the data tag!



Let me hear what everyone thinks! The more advice the better!

Next, I'll be looking for all the rubber lines, such as fuel lines, belts, radiator hoses, and brake lines, so if anyone has any part numbers or sources, please let me know.

I hope everyone is doing well, take care.

-Curtis H.

So far, so good, although (being a recovering fuels and lube engineer), I'd have recomended a different approach than flooding the cylinders with oil - but at least you chose a nearly appropriate product.

You should crank the engine and get as much of the 2-cycle oil out as soon as you can. Cranking the engine to expel the oil will get the oil into the oil ring, which is the bottom of the three piston rings.

As to the oil drained looking clean, the only thing one can judge from looking at the oil is its color (but lack of milkiness signifies the lack of coolant migration into the crankcase - a good sign). Period. So don't be misled by its appearance.

Plan on changing the oil and filter after no more than 500 miles, then again at the next 500, then again at the next 1,000. There is nothing to be gained by changing the oil unless the engine has been run.

A clean carb is a good sign, but fuel in the bowl can cause sticking of the float, and that can be very dangerous. When you first start the engine, watch the carb for flooding/leaking and have a fire extinguisher at hand.

Prior posts from many members also have sage advice.

Good luck!

quote:

I took the oil drain plug out, and realized it's not a normal drain plug. It looks like there is some kind of quick release on it or something. Anyone know what it does special?

It is a Fumoto quick drain or something like it. I use them on some vehicles. But only where it is does not stick down and is not vulnerable to damage from rocks, road debris, alligators, etc.

Heed Rusty's advice on fire. My own practice is to use a small marine spark arrester whenever I fire up an engine without the air cleaner. It is small enough to allow full view of the carb, but still will contain the bulk of any flashback, or at least direct it sideways instead of in your face. A flame thrower in your MH would spoil your day.

Looks great! These guys have given you a bunch of good advice regarding the coach, so I'll throw in a tidbit regarding photography. I'm sure you're using a digital camera with a flash, so when taking indoor pix close the blinds or cover the windows with anything to block sunlight, at least enough to cut the glare. The brain in the camera will then use the flash and not be fooled by the glare from outside, and should give you nice clear pix of the interior.
I replaced my fridge with the 2-way Dometic "Classic", 110-LP, about 5 years ago and have been very happy with it. I believe they have a newer one that fits in the same space but has a larger capacity inside. Figure on dropping about 11 hundred plus installation, but it's worth it when it works perfectly.
I think I covered the rubber brake lines before, REPLACE them!
See what kind of oil lines you have from the adapter over the oil filter to the cooler. I had one let go in the driveway and had to make a quick trip to Advance for a LARGE bag of speedy dry. New one, custom made with SS hydraulic line, about 100 bucks.
I have been very happy with my Bridgestone tires. Not the quietest, but they handle well and show no wear after 5 years. They never see the sun when not on the road, and never spend more than 2 months [way too long] without turning at least a few miles down the road. Make sure they put on new SS inflator extensions for the inner tires.
Don't forget to put new windshield wiper blades on her before hitting the road. NAPA will fix you up. That's all for now, good luck, and keep us informed.

Curtis: Looks like you have a winner. Good luck and enjoy your new play toy........

Wonder how long she has ben sitting on the lawn? You may have some rust on her bottom.
All-in though, this should be an easy restoration. You have a desirable short coach for two people even for long term living due to the rear double bed/bath setup.
Good luck and have fun with this, remember to take your time and do it right the first tme. You have all the time in the world to make it how you want it.
Don

curtis-

where exactly is "up there". I have a guy that will be fixing my ice maker and is the only autherized Nor-Cold repair in Northern Michigan. He seems to know what he is doing and may have what you need. if you would like I could give you his number. He is in Wolverine, MI. Let me know. Looks like you may be able to make South Haven. It would be great.

quote:

Originally posted by Don in Niagara:
Wonder how long she has ben sitting on the lawn? You may have some rust on her bottom.
Don

It's been sitting up there for all of the 20 years my grandpa owned it. Leaving every year for about 3 months to go out west for the winter. I looked the frame over pretty well and didn't see any major rust. Some surface rust, but nothing too major.

quote:

Originally posted by Jeff & Joy:
curtis-

where exactly is "up there".

The Barth is in Oscoda, MI. Looks to be about 3 hours away from Wolverine, MI. Do you think he would have a fridge for me? Seeing they run easily over $1,000 and I'm on a small budget, I need to save all the money I can!


Thanks for all the kind words everyone! It's nice to hear. I've already been planing everything I want to do to the interior, but first must come the mechanical.

I'll keep you all posted, as the project goes

Thanks again
-Curt

quote:

I need to save all the money I can!

Oh boy is that ever true, you and me both! What I've discovered is that there seems to be some retired RV workers and RV parts guys and RV parts liquidators around the country that are selling off many items. For instance, near me, there is a guy who advertises on craigslist, that he has a few new RV refrigerators for half price of retail. On ebay there are many people selling new RV stuff and new old stock (NOS) chassis parts. If you need the parts immediately, you will have to pay whatever is asked. But if you create "saved searches" on ebay using combinations of the part numbers, descriptions, and even mis-spellings of some descriptive terms, you can find things very inexpensively. Ebay will then email you when the object is found. I enjoy finding and buying large objects for the 99 cent opening bid. You can do something similar, using google-saved-searches, targeted to craigslist.org. Also, at one time, someone here told me about craigshelper.com, it is now www.searchtempest.com.

quote:

I want to do to the interior, but first must come the mechanical.

If the brakes are working, at a minimum, purge and replace all the brake fluid. Even things that are working, are old. And inexpensive things like the ignition parts, fuel pump, and such, should be carried as spares at a minimum.

Also, given the duration of how long it has been idle, unless you have inspected the area of the rig, assume it has been fouled by mice. So, inspect heating ducts, the roof AC, and so forth. Bring a mask and a shop vac.

The next time you change oil you don't need to remove the pan plug. Just lift up on the little silver tab and move it to one side or the other. It is spring loaded and is a ball valve. No wrench needed and you can let out as much or as little oil at a time as you want. Just make sure when you close it the tab drops back down in place and locks.

I have one on my jeep and my bus and it really makes oil changes a lot easier and cleaner.

quote:

Originally posted by Shadow man:
The next time you change oil you don't need to remove the pan plug. Just lift up on the little silver tab and move it to one side or the other. It is spring loaded and is a ball valve.

That's a great piece of advice! Then I don't have to worry about fishing the drain plug out of the oil pan when I drop it in there too!

If you still have the original refregerator, you may be able to get a rebuilt cooling unit. I did that and they are super easy to replace once you get over the fear factor.

I have also heard that behind camping world you will find discarded RV refreg. You could rebuild one of these.

BTW I bought my cooling unit on Ebay for about $300 if my memory is working today.