My 1993 Barth Regency has an alarm that has the following inputs (wire numbers): Transmission Temperature (186), Mod Probe(201), Low Coolant (306), Oil Pressure (7), Air System 1 (1), Brk Warn (375) and Coolant Temperature (6). It never shuts off. How do I know which system is causing this problem?

Also, it appears to be from a company called Ever Tech. The following appears on the side:
183-GG3-002
4470-12
Sep 14 1992
The other wires going to it are: Gnd (14) and Inst Pwr (40).
What is a Mod Probe?
Does anyone have information concerning this item?

This will probably work rather well.

Hook your testlight alligator clip to a hot/positive terminal. Touch each input with the pointed part of the testlight... whichever causes the testlight to shine the brightest will be the one that is grounding out and causing your sensor to go off.

Transmission Temperature (186),
Low Coolant (306),
Oil Pressure (7),
Air System 1 (1),
Brk Warn (375),
Coolant Temperature (6)

But, on the other hand... you might be getting an electrical backfeed. So, check Gnd (14) with the tip of the testlight. That should be really bright... If you have a weak ground, your testlight would show up with a weak light or none at all. You might be getting a backfeed from a weak ground too.

If none of these tests work, disconnect each input wire one at a time and see when it stops buzzing.

I have no idea what a Mod Probe is.

I recently had a problem with the low oil pressure light/alarm signaling. I was irradic, fading in and out. Initially we thought it was a failing ground, but turned out to be a failing sensor. A new sensor needed to be ordered from Cummins, which fixed the problem.

Testing the sensor with an ohm meter showed it was out of the specified range and needed to be replaced.

Bill G

I just came in from putting my dash back together. Another interesting item came up. There is a light for Oil Temp but I can find no wires that perform that function. There was a connector for Low Coolant so I temporarily put it in the Oil Temp slot. Well, it illuminates constantly so either I have low coolant or that could be my problem. I will check later this week.

By the way, is there an Oil Temp function on anyone's Barth?

On my 1993 Regency I have both an oil temp and oil pressure gauge. The only light is in the dash panel that lights up when the ignition switch is on and the engine not running.

Lance, I have the water temp gauge with the red high temp light and the oil pressure gauge and and low oil pressure red light and transmission oil temp and a high trans oil warning light and low air warning light. When either of the lights come on with the warning buzzer and when the oil pressure light or water temp gets too high comes on, engine will shut down in 15 seconds. When I got home from DC, I had refueled at Walmart, and cranked engine and low air light would not go off even though I was showing 125 lbs. of pressure. I had good pressure and good braking, everything worked fine, just had the low air pressure light on and the buzzer. When I got home, about 3 miles, I shut down and the air on one tank bled down fast. Started engine and built air pressure back up and shut down and started listening for air leak and finally after about 4 shutdowns, I traced it to the electric compartment under the driver seat. The low air pressure switch had a small hole in it. I orded one from gillig and replaced the switch and everthing is working fine. While in DC, Tom Johns helped me replace a fuel solenoid cut off switch and we noticed that the tempature switch was twisted and I had ordered that and replace that at the same time.

sky

Since I am finally wrapping up my refurb job I am going to check all fluids, etc. and see what happens. I do know that I have low coolant since the overflow tank is empty.

Thanks to Bill N.Y. I found out what the MOD Probe is. According the the warning system schematic a wire with the same number is connected between the sound generator and the low coolant switch. Unlike most of the other warning lights/buzzers, the low coolant does not directly connect to the light. The light is fed from the SG.

I do have a good set of places to start trouble shooting when I have the "beast" back together. Hopefully a fill-up of water/anti-freeze will do the trick. Wish me luck. As others have alluded to the dash and console is a massive spaghetti farm.

I have finished the wiring checkout and put the dash back in place. I put 1 1/2 gallons of coolant (water/anti-freeze) in and the warning buzzer now goes out as soon as the air pressure is high enough. I still can't figure out why I have a high oil temp light but no wires listed as such yet I have a low coolant circuit with no low coolant lamp. I got a chassis electrical schematic for my chassis from Spartan and it also shows no wiring for oil temp. Strange.......