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AC Gasket/ Seal Replacement Questions
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/10
posted
Both of my roof airs are leaking a little water into the coach so I'm going to replace the gasket on the roof. Tomorrow I go get the seals.

How do you replace them? I took off the covers and the foward part of the sheetmetal and it doesn't look that difficult BUT I've learned it's easier to pick you all's brains for ideas and pointers....

Thank you in advance for input, suggestions, experiences and ideas!

K&E

I have 1995 vintage Colemon Mach airconditioners
 
Posts: 429 | Location: The Great Midwest | Member Since: 12-04-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/16
Captain Doom
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The entire unit has to be removed from the cutout; there are usually four or more mounting bolts on the inside accessed by removing the interior shroud.

When they're originally installed, the gasket is usually the first thing put in place.


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

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Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by K&E:
Both of my roof airs are leaking a little water into the coach so I'm going to replace the gasket on the roof.

Thank you in advance for input, suggestions, experiences and ideas!
I saw water leaking inside one of my Coleman units about 3 yrs ago - all I did was tighten down the 4 mounting bolts and it didn't leak again.

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Posts: 5924 | Location: Newburgh, New York | Member Since: 05-10-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
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I'm with Bill on this one. Colemans come with little plastic tabs that gauge where you should torque it down to innitially. It doesn't compress the seal very much but it works. If the tabs are just touching the roof, I'd crank all four bolts down a few turns, maybe an 8th inch or so. If the seals are already squashed down, it's time for new seals. As Rusty said, not a hard job. A deep well 1/4" socket and a driver drill will save some time if the nuts are way up on the bolts. Disconnect shore power, you have to disconnect the wires to the AC to remove it. I can't remember if the new seal has adhesive for mounting to the AC, but I believe it does. The new seal should only need to be torqued to the tabs. There may also be a thicker strip to prop up the rear of the unit. Use it. Not trying to be a know-it-all, but I did all this last year and I know how intimidating it can be with no knowledge going in. Good luck.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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AC leaks unsettle me. the opening has a curb that should keep roof water from getting inside.


.

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Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
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quote:
the opening has a curb that should keep roof water from getting inside.

This may be on yours, but mine has a hole cut in the roof that the AC sits on top of. No flange or curb of any kind. The foam seal is it!


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
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Here's the inside looking forward.

Here's the tabs used to gauge torquing down the seal.

Here's the roof. It does appear to have been cut, perhaps when a different AC was installed, so it may well have had a flange at one time.

Also, I stand corrected about the 4 bolts. They extend a long way throught the framing and are fine thread, which is why I was thinking of the driver drill to get them out. A deepwell isn't required.
Hope this helps a little.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/10
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Finished replacing both A/C seals today. It took about 4 hours total to replace both of them including about 1 hour of runs to the hardware store.

Interestingly, the previous owner spent a lot of time trying to stop this leak...goobered it up with caulking tape...I'd say several hours...THIS IS A RELATIVELY SIMPLY JOB!!! DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME HALFWAY FIXING IT.....FIX IT RIGHT AND GO ON!!!

The original seal was so crimped down, I thought it was caulking tape they used around the windows. They had kept cranking down the hold-down bolts trying to stop the leak until the seal was maybe 1/8 inch thick.

One thing I did extra, was after I put down the new seal, I ran a bead of silicone around the outside of the seal to the roof....I figured this was just an added layer of protection. Incidently, my unit only has 3 hold down bolts....2 in the center and one on the back.

Guys, this is an easy job....don't put it off if your unit is leaking! If you can drive a Barth, you can do this!
 
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 6/12
Formally known as "Humbojb"
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Is the hole for the ac unit 12" x 12"? The same size as the vent opening?


Jim and TereJim and Tere

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Captain Doom
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Standard cutout is 14"X14".


Rusty


MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP; built-to-order by Peninsular Engines:  Hi-pop injectors, gear-driven camshaft, non-waste-gated, high-output turbo, 18:1 pistons.  Fuel economy increased by 15-20%, power, WOW!"StaRV II"

'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP

Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers

Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not.
In either case the idea is quite staggering.
- Arthur C. Clarke

It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields
 
Posts: 7734 | Location: Brooker, FL, USA | Member Since: 09-08-2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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