I have a 8.2 L (500 CI) Turbo Charged Detroit Diesel "Fuel Pincher" engine....where do I find more info about it?

OK guys tell me everything

Most of what I know I found when researching Bluebird Wanderlodges, a lot of them used the engine you have and the V-8 version. The two
cycle DD's are very high output, if they put
"fuel pincher" on it must of been some marketing
guys idea of a joke. Rumor is that GM spent millions in the early 90's trying to save the engine by coming up with a version for increasing
emission regulations but finally had to throw in the towel. These engines could be had in a world of different sizes, three cylinder sizes (I think) and from V-2's to V-16's or whatever. Their claim to fame also turned out to be their downfall, they are a sleeved engine making individual cylinder rebuilds in frame possible. However as they age if you do not use coolant test strips regularly and keep the coolant chemistry just right they are prone to catastrophic failure of the oring seal on the sleeve and if traveling at highway speed the engine is destroyed before you can pull over and stop. Check out the Bluebird Owners Group on Yahoogroups and this website for more info.
http://www.vintagebirds.com/

I don't recall the GM 8.2L was ever very popular, especially in Bluebirds.

This is an engine entirely different from the classic DD 2-stroke engines (-53, -71, and -92), which came in versions from 3-cylinder (3-53) to 16 (16V71). IIRC, the 8.2L (like my 6.5L, derived from the 6.2L) isn't sleeved, and like the 6.2/6.5 and Toro-Flow, is 4-stroke.

Cavitaton and erosion corrosion on sleeved engines is a common design concern.

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I have a 8.2 L (500 CI) Turbo Charged Detroit Diesel "Fuel Pincher" engine

That is the standard engine that came in the MCC chassis.... It is a four-stroke diesel... It is called a "Parent Block" because it doesnt have sleeves.... Is there anything specific you want/need to know? I have a shop manual and could look up info for you.... They are known for failing if they are ever overheated so DONT!!! Anything specific you need to know feel free to PM me here as I check in frequently.... Or stop into the chat room some evening and STS.... LOL

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I have a 8.2 L (500 CI) Turbo Charged Detroit Diesel "Fuel Pincher" engine

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Originally posted by Patch1st:
That is the standard engine that came in the MCC chassis.... It is a four-stroke diesel... It is called a "Parent Block" because it doesnt have sleeves.... Is there anything specific you want/need to know? I have a shop manual and could look up info for you.... They are known for failing if they are ever overheated so DONT!!! Anything specific you need to know feel free to PM me here as I check in frequently.... Or stop into the chat room some evening and STS.... LOL

They are known for failing if they are ever overheated so DONT!!!

pretty much sums it up without delving into specifics.

RE: known for failing if they are ever overheated so DONT!!!.....pretty much sums it up without delving into specifics.

What are the specifics that one should look out for??

OK when is an engine overheated??

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OK when is an engine overheated??

There are a number of engine temp measuring sensors, you may have all or just one. Obviously, coolant temp is the most common and significant. I would worry at 250 degrees sustained.

Engine oil temp and EGT (exhaust gas temp) are other areas that may be monitored. The oil temp will generally follow the same rule of worry above 250. EGT, on the other hand can go well above 1000, but if you have the sensor, look at the specs on your specific engine.

High temp issues are not unique to an unsleeved engine, it's just that the consequences of damage may render an unsleeved engine a throwaway. They are often described as "disposable" engines although technically anything can be resurrected with enough money and replacement parts.

If the engine is turbocharged, at a minimum you should have at least a boost gage and exhaust gas temperature gage. Max EGT rule-of-thumb is 1250°F, pre-turbo.

Another essential (IMHO) is a transmisson temp gage.

Engine coolant temp, as Corey mentioned, would be alarm level at 250°. I would amplify that to state that 250° would be max after, pulling off the road at 235°. One key to avoiding overheating any engine is to unload it before temps are critical. If the temp overrun is due to a long grade, the engine should be left running to cool down after stopping.

As long as the coolant hasn't completely boiled off, an engine is OK, so stopping before things get out of hand is critical.

At 205 or 215 HP, the GM 8.2L isn't heavily stressed at normal temps (my 6.5L TD 230HP isn't either). Actually no internal-combustion engine tolerates overheating very well, it's just the the 8.2L is at the bottom of the scale.

We had that failure on the way back from Dega. It was running around 200 coming down HYW 10. Looked down again and it was over 250. I pulled off the road as soon as I could but it was to late. It will run but It blew something. Headgasket-Block not sure. Towed her home.

We are going to pull it out and take a look. There is no room to fix it in place. I spoke to Rick and Diesel Reman who rebuilds these engines and he pretty much said after I told him what happen that the damage was done and it would have to come out.

He has rebuilt engines in stock or will rebuild yours. He knows alot about these engines. They are located in Warren Mich. He has a great website that tells all about the 8.2.

ED.

As great as gauges are, a back-up idiot light or warning buzzer is still a good idea. Guess you won't be making it to Nicks this weekend?
I've been told 8.2s can't be rebuilt. I assume they mean re-sleeved, since there is no sleeve. What else is there to rebuild?

My suggestion for this engine includes the installation of a low coolant light & alarm in the radiator or surge tank.

This engine will NOT ACCEPT any overheating or low coolant conditions. If it gets hot AT ALL you can just pretty much bet that you'll junk it.

A low coolant alarm with a VERY LOUD screeching buzzer and your absolute commitment to turn it off immediately is the ONLY THING that will save this engine.

I don't believe they make a temp gauge big enough to warn you. The problem is, by the time you see it's at 240... you're probably already too late.

No Nicks this time but she will be ready for the GTG in DEC.

While we are resolving the motor issue with are going to do a complete new brake job, new tires and a lot of maintenance since it will be jacked up in the air on blocks and easier to get under it.

I have an 8V71 in my bus. If the temp goes over 200 i am getting nervous. If it gets to 210 or above i am probably going to be looking for a rebuild or a new engine. The old Detroits are tough but heat will kill them quickly. The smaller Detroits may handle heat better but i would not gamble on it. No way would i think 250 degrees is ok.

Since the 8.2 is so susceptible to failure with overheating, would it be a good idea to put a different engine in that would be a little more forgiving?
Jim