Has anyone replaced the 1x1 steel frame that holds the aluminum skirting around the lower section? If so, I am looking for some ideas.
Most of the framework for the skirt is badly rusted and I am thinking of replacing with aluminum square stock. I think the only way might be to drill out the bay door rivets and along the seam at the floor line and also underneath (which are almost all gone already). Then remove skirt and old framework then build new framework and rivet skirt and bay doors back in place. I have not removed the trim that covers the seam yet. If that area is easy to seperate the job might not be to bad. Anyone know about this area? Is the skirting underneath the corregated wall? This might be one side at a time kind of project. Possibly the worst side this year and save the other for next. Does anyone see an easier way?
Thanks, Lloyd

I was hoping someone else would answer this. Yes, I've done this too. Hey, what did I expect for 5 bills...

Q. I have not removed the trim that covers the seam yet. If that area is easy to seperate the job might not be to bad. Anyone know about this area? Is the skirting underneath the corregated wall?

A. To remove the skirting take out the rubber strip that goes into the channel at floor height and drill out the rivets. This will allow you to remove the lower skirting. The skirting is behind the corrugated panel and it slips out really easy.

Q. Does anyone see an easier way?

A. Nope, just get started and it is very basic. It's just like you said. You must build a frame. I ground out the old stuff and used 1" flat steel stock to attach to the bottom of the floor. This is what my 1" square tubing cage is welded too. I looked for my spec sheet on this for dimensions but can't seem to find it. I don't think my specs will help you as it seems like most barth's have there own height for the lower panels. I did mine in steel like Barth did but I don't see why you couldn't use aluminum.

What Chassis do you have, what year coach?

Connecting the new 1x1 or what ever size you select frame to the existing frame is something I have been thinking about for a few days.

I spoke with the fellow that has done welding on the steel boat and he reminded me that we have welded 300 series stainless to the steel hull. 300 series does not rust, Ok,OK everything rusts but 300 series is darn hard to get to rust.

As without the use of a bimetallic strip I do not know of a way to weld aluminum to the existing steel frame and a mechanical connection may work loose or be rather costly may I suggest you consider welding or having a stainless frame welded to the existing steel frame. 300 series stainless is more than steel but it is not real expensive.


On my 1973, drilling the rivets out allowed me to pull the skirt out on the passenger side aft of the rear wheels; the skirt is not connected to the middle aluminum sections, it just slid out. It is my guess that the other areas are built in the same way.

If I had the cash, I would replace the bottom skirt with grade 8 stainless; that is the mirror finish stuff. I think when I priced it (about a year back and prices have gone up) with shaping (putting the radius in) it came in at about $950.00 for the cut and radiused material, this assumes I did the wheelwell cutouts myself and oh yea without the right tools cutting stainless sheet metal is a tough deal. I have used a saws all and a saber saw, these are not the right tools; the blades break, the metal bends or work hardens making it even tougher to cut and worn out $10.00 each saws all blades drop to the ground like leaves at the end of summer.

There is a tool that appears attractive, it is a pneumatic driven pair of sheet-metal sheers. I have never used this tool and have only seen it used on TV. A Mr. Jessie James uses it while maintaining eye contact with the camera rather than the work piece and produces dimensionally prefect radii. A Mr. Tuttle also uses the tool to effortlessly shape sheet-metal used on his motorcycles while his father provides non-value-added continuo in the background.

As both of these fellows are well skilled journeymen and while the tool appears to be just the ticket I suspect if I were to use it my mileage would vary.

Timothy

Sorry I forgot to mention its a 1987 33' P32 w/tag.
Bill N.Y., Did you weld or bolt the flat stock to the floor?
Thanks,Lloyd

quote:

Originally posted by shtym:
Did you weld or bolt the flat stock to the floor?

I bolted it on in two spots but then welded the rest into place.

Bill N.Y.

Resurrecting this old thread. This is on my soon to do list. SteveVW provided 1" tubing with J bends when I bought his 33'. I now own a good welder stick,tig,mig, flux core and I'm getting ready to tackle this project before the side skirts decide to leave themselves on the highway. I plan to prime and paint all the tubing (grind off the areas to be welded, I'm going to sandwich moderately heavy plastic strips between the steel frame and aluminum skin and will use ptef lube on all the rivets. Anything I'm missing? Any tips and tricks? Any help would be appreciated.

Member Kevin, who I got the J frames from, removed the outer skins and replaced water tanks on his coach. He posted a great slide show here: (the link in his thread no longer works)

https://app.photobucket.com/u/...b5ea0?mode=slideshow

Discussion here:
https://www.barthmobile.com/eve...103988887#9103988887

At this time I can't even view photos on PB let alone link them. Have I mentioned how much I hate DAM PHOTOBUCKET!!!!

It seems photobucket is all pay to play at this point. I'm looking forward to And dreading this project...

quote:

l

If you can pick thru the &%$#@* commercials this might tell some of us something ... https://www.theverge.com/2019/...orage-pricing-flickr

Kevin sent some links that still work. I put them in the previous post.

Dick, that article pretty well sums up the PhotoBucket saga. Reminds me of AOL who once had nearly 80% of online email....
Stupidity, greed, and bad decisions never seem to go away....