Now that it's dipped into the 60"s we are starting to use are dash heater again. What I've noticed is either from infrequent useage or lack of maintenance the dash heater control cable doesn't move as freely as it should. The engine water control valve in the front compartment of the coach seems stiff as well..I was thinking about using some WD40 but thought I'd check with the pros...

WD-40 might work. The worst that happens is it doesn't. Check this thread in case you need some parts.

Thread on Heat & A.C. controls

Take the cable off at the pivot and work the heater valve at the heater core with your fingers while sraying. Then go in the cab and extened the heater control back and forth to see if it moves very freely or not. lightly spray the back of the control with it extended and retracted trying to get the end of the cables where it goes into the sleeve do the same on the other end of the cable.

This will tell you if your really need a cable or just the valve or spray. Most of the time the cable gets water inside and it rust up.

I am not a fan of WD40. I have had guns rust with it, for one. They will deny it, but I have heard that it contains sulphur, which combines with moist air to produce sulfuric acid. I am not a chemist, and chemistry was hard for me in college, but far too many of us have had rusty stuff where we thought WD was protecting us. The gun forums are rife with negative opinions on WD. I even had a rocket scientist who told me WD was prohibited at Cape Kennedy.

If the halibut aren't biting, a little WD on the bait can help, smetimes.

My employer had WD all over the place. It was held in such low regard by so many of us that we bought our own products for our use on the job. PB Blaster, for example. We found CRC 226 to be better for other applications, as well as LPS 1, 2 or 3, depending on the application. Some engineer had us using WD to internally lubricate JT9D reversers. We had 55 gallon drums of it. We switched to Dri Slide, which worked much better and longer. I was a tech svcs analyst then, and the difference was astounding. I can't think of an application where WD40 was a preferred product. Oh yeah, a potato cannon or mini flame thrower. As far as its vaunted "water displacing" qualities, my extensive field research with a Lucas K2F magneto in daily commuting revealed alcohol or carbon tet to be far superior.

When I have cable trouble and corrosion is suspected, I try to work PB Blaster through it, then Dri Slide or a motorcycle cable lube. MC shops have a wonderful little tool for using a can of spray lube to pressure feed it into the cable. Don't even think about MC chain lube. It is a wonderful lubricant, but can gum up a cable. Schwinn sells a nice chain lube that works in cables, too. I think it has Teflon powder in it.

A story about PB Blaster vs. WD-40

My mechanic Pete has always told me to use PB Blaster. I resisted and found out one day that he paid for a can out of his own pocket. I asked why on earth would he buy "shop supplies" out of his own pocket.

His answer was quite simple: Bill, I like working for you. If I have to keep wasting time using that WD-40 crap I'll quit!

We have been using PB Blaster ever since. He was right, it works a heck of a lot better then WD-40!

geez, good thing I asked. Nice thing about the modern dirt and street bikes I own, they no longer utilize cables...everything is hydraulic.
Now that I think back 35 years, my dad always used LPS...he was a chemical engineer too....

For the cable and the heater valve shaft, use Super Lube (Teflon) spray. I noticed at Lowe's the other day that Dupont is now selling a similar product under its own label.

PB Blaster is all I use for freeing parts.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
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PB Blaster is all I use for freeing parts.

Nice to be in such enlightened company.

Sping shopping list: PB Blaster, Super Lube spray, Battery spray. JKB

I tend to agree with all on the WD-40 bit.

Problem is that its ability to creep and lubricate is based on its thinness. I have read that it is basically kerosene with some perfume in it. That is probably close to the truth. The reason that guns rust is that it does not coat the metal as well as oil or grease...stuff with more staying power.

It *is* pretty effective at taking crayon off walls...

quote:

Originally posted by SLOOP JOHN B:
Sping shopping list: PB Blaster, Super Lube spray, Battery spray. JKB

LPS3 is a pretty good thing for preventing corrosion on battery connections. Mineral oil in the cells is a really good preventative measure.

Mineral oil in the cells themselves is NOT a good idea...

Bill H Iam with you on this one

JKB

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Mineral oil in the cells themselves is NOT a good idea...

Why is it bad Rusty?

First, the mineral oil doesn't cohabitate well with sulfuric acid, producing "crud".

Secondly, even if it didn't deteriorate, there's no advantage to its use, (other than it might coat the grids if the electrolyte level got low and then it's likely to wipe out that portion of the grid, reducing battery capacity), but the solution to that issue is to check the level and keep the grids immersed in what they're designed to be immersed in - electrolyte.

I don't know who might have suggested that to you, but the concept has no redeeming virtues, and plenty of downside. It's in the same category as the suggestion that aspirin will do something great to battery cells, another myth.

The only thing to go into flooded-cell batteries is distilled water when the cells are low. Nothing else does anything beneficial.

Add distilled water only. When electrolyte is lost under normal use, the water evaporates while the acid remains in the battery.

The distilled water level should be no higher than 1/8 inch below the bottom of the vent well. To avoid damage make sure the electrolyte level never drops below the top of the plates. Also, avoid over filling, which will result in electrolyte overflow. If the lead plates of the battery are exposed, you need distilled water.

Remove vent caps, once removed, you will see individual vent cells. Look down into each individual cell to make sure that the water is covering the lead plates and is at the proper level. Add distilled water to any cells that's low. Always use distilled water to fill the battery in order to prevent chemicals from contaminating a battery. The fluid should cover the lead plates in the battery and be no higher than 1/8 inch below the bottom of the vent well. Tap water is no good as it could have chemical that will destroy your battery.

Sealed vs. removable vent covers: A battery with removable vent caps has advantages over a sealed no-maintenance battery. Access to the cells allows you to extend the life of your battery when water evaporation has occurred and delay the purchase of a new one. If a sealed no-maintenance battery has water evaporation or if it is affected by a charging system problem, nothing can be done to extend the life of the battery and it must be replaced.


Follow these important safety tips:
• Put on protective eye wear, rubber gloves and junk clothes, remove all jewelry.
• Don't allow smoking, open flames or sparks near the battery.


Perform a specific gravity test on each cell with a hydrometer, which will reveal important information about the state of the battery, including if one or more of the cells is defective. This test can not be performed on a sealed battery.

Specific Gravity Test: This test is performed with a hydrometer, which is the most accurate hand held tool for determining the state of charge of a lead acid battery.
Draw electrolyte into the hydrometer a few times so that the float reaches the same temperature as the electrolyte. This will increase the accuracy of your readings.

Hold the hydrometer vertically so that the float is free and does not touch the inner walls of the barrel.

Hold the hydrometer so that the liquid is level in the barrel and at eye level.

When you draw the electrolyte, make sure that the hydrometer is full.

Check each individual battery cell. If the specific gravity varies more than .050 or "50 points" among the cells while the battery is at a 75% state of charge or above, then the battery is bad and should be replaced. The cells that have a specific gravity of 50 points less than the highest cell are bad cells. A hydrometer reading of 1.265 or greater at 80°F indicates a full charge for batteries. To determine the battery's state of charge, compare the hydrometer reading to a Specific Gravity Chart.

To get the most accurate hydrometer reading, you should adjust your hydrometer reading according to the temperature. If the electrolyte temperature is ABOVE 80°F , ADD .004 (called "four points") to the hydrometer reading for each 10 degrees above 80°F. If the electrolyte temperature is BELOW 80°F, SUBTRACT four points from the hydrometer reading for each 10 degrees below 80°F.

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Specific Gravity 1.265 is a 100% State of charge
Specific Gravity 1.225 is a 75% State of charge
Specific Gravity 1.190 is a 50% State of charge
Specific Gravity 1.155 is a 25% State of charge
Specific Gravity 1.120 is a 0% State of charge

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Note: All info is taken from the Interstate Batteries tech sheet.
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