Whether it's a single or double really doesn't matter. The way it is wired does. Because the description says...

The Battery Disconnect Relay is a mechanically latching switch that operates by the momentary application of battery voltage to the coil terminals in one direction for latching (closed) or the other direction for unlatching (open).

You would need to either get a window motor switch with the 4 terminals or get a 6 terminal switch and wire it like the diagram.

So get the Latching Relay that Rusty found -
get a proper switch - wire it in like the diagram. You're done!



And the best thing is... we all learned something.

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Somewhere, someone on the web, said that the switch reverses polarity to throw the relay the opposite direction; I'm skeptical about that claim

That quote came off of the page that you linked the relay to.

quote:

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
Somewhere, someone on the web, said that the switch reverses polarity to throw the relay the opposite direction; I'm skeptical about that claim

That quote came off of the page that you linked the relay to.

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I can't remember what I had for breakfast and I'm supposed to remember that?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
I can't remember what I had for breakfast and I'm supposed to remember that?

You insulted my welder! you didn't think I was going to give you a free pass, did you?

Now if you let my welder slide then I would have held back (right) on posting that.

OK, Bill, I'll yield on the welder issue, but only because I haven't bought a forklift capable of lifting the thing, and I don't yet know how I'll get it home...besides which, until the power company gets its new generator, I can't run it anyway...

Hi Bill, it is a rocker switch. It is identical to all the rocker switches used throughout the coach for the interior lighting. I physically removed it from the wall today and tested each of the two posts with a test light.

Try this for the rocker switch

Does this switch look like it will fit in?



A generator start stop switch (without the light) would work. I even think that a boat's outdrive to lift it out of water would work. Those are waterproof and I think they are already reversed so the X pattern jumper wouldn't have to be added.

I edited it this morning when I realized my link last night was pointing to an Austrailian site. It is now pointing to Grainger.com if you order that switch from them find out if they have an electrical harness for it.

You could also try your local auto-parts store. The cole-hersee part number is 58027-11

That switch looks twice as wide but the current mounting surface seems to be easily widened with a key hole saw...so it looks like all I need is the switch you display above, the relay, and just follow your wiring diagram ...? I wonder how the original setup ever worked?

quote:

Originally posted by hilarlee:
I wonder how the original setup ever worked?

It didn't work. It was only draining your batteries and burning out your relays.

I did see other smaller switches while doing a google search but they really looked like they wouldn't take much amps. If this will fit then put that one in.

quote:

Originally posted by hilarlee:
so it looks like all I need is the switch you display above, the relay, and just follow your wiring

That's it. Done...

Bill, I'm a little confused about your switch diagram...you have a black line and red line cross over one another. Are those two lines representing two wires I will need to install on the switch?

quote:

Originally posted by hilarlee:
Bill, I'm a little confused about your switch diagram...you have a black line and red line cross over one another. Are those two lines representing two wires I will need to install on the switch?

Yes, by crossing those wires you're making the current flow backwards. If you hit the switch one way the current goes across like it's supposed to. With the X jumper you're reversing the current and sending the hot and grounds to the opposite side.

Hmmmm, My coach is the same as hilarlee's. I have a single small rocker switch that activates the large battery connect relay. It is not a latching type and was never changed, it is the original Barth installation. It also does not get hot just slightly warm.

I will agree, I much prefer a BIG switch to a relay and it will get changed later but for now it is OK.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
Hmmmm, My coach is the same as hilarlee's. I have a single small rocker switch that activates the large battery connect relay. It is not a latching type and was never changed, it is the original Barth installation.

Humm, did you buy your coach new?

Think about it like this. By allowing current to pull the coil in you're loosing power for nothing more then a magnetic coil. If your batteries get drained then this is what's doing it. Let's say you have a solar charger. The wasted current going to the solenoid is more than the solar power.

Your batteries aren't getting drained? Then you're always running your generator, coach or you're plugged in when at home.

If you want to see a drain (power draw) leave the switch on and unplug the coach from the house. Post back here in a few days.

I think you would find them run down or dead so don't do it. Seeing that you're going to the big switch then this wont be a problem too much longer anyway.

I will measure the current drain thru the on/off switch and report back. That should represent the relay holding current.

No I didn't buy the coach new but the wiring diagram that I have clearly shows a on/off switch arrangement and not a latching system.

When hooking up the wires an acceptable plug may not be available. If this is the case you should use a "Fully Insulated Female Blade Plug" like what is pictured on the right



make up 4 wires about 3 inches long and install 4 of these terminal ends - 1 on each wire - strip all of the other ends back.

Take two of the 4 wires and place next to each other and twist the stripped wire ends together. Repeat with the other two loose ones. You should now have two sets of these wires shaped in a "V" pattern.

Use these as your jumper wires and attach these "v" shaped wires with a yellow heat shrink butt connector to the wires that run down to the solenoid.

The two wires that go down to the solenoid gets stripped down farther. Because your using a larger diameter heat shrink for this your going to strip the wiring down farther and bend it over before placing it in and crimping the yellow butt connector or you could use a larger diameter wire. Heat to seal.

You will now have in your hands two sets of wires that look like a "Y"

Like in the DPDT Switch diagram hook each set up in an X pattern taking the upper right terminal and the lower left terminal and plug it in to the harness you just made. Repeat the process using the lower right and upper left terminals.

The last thing to do is hook up your hot wire and ground wire to either one of the center pins (doesn't matter which) using the fully insultated female blade plug and your done.

Test before mounting the switch into the housing. Zip tie loose wires.

Ed, I need to correct my earlier statement regarding the relay temperature. The "White Rodger" units were always "warm" to the touch.At one point I installed a lower rated relay and it was hot to the touch. I almost never turned the power off in my coach but would "Plug in"when I returned home from a trip. When I finally did turn the switch off and back on, the relay failed. Once it failed just an hour before I was leaving for Yosemite. I ordered a new switch from Grainger and am placing an order for the relay so this never happens again. Plus, I agree with Bill and Rusty that leaving power "ON" 24x7 is not healthy for the overall electrical system.