I have a problem with my Regency air suspension that hopefully someone more expert can help with. The right side of the coach will not inflate to level the vehicle but I do not have any problems with the left side. Air dump works fine and the solenoids close. I can't hear any hissing and I find no broken or disconnected air lines to the air bags. I have moved the level arm around and checked the connectors with no change. This first happened after I put the levellers down and dumped the air to work on the generator compartment. I have not tried to drive it to see if road bouncing will somehow fix it. Any suggestions are appreciated

Air suspension systems normally have 3 height control valves. There is one attached to the front axle and two attached to the rear axle.

The two on the back will be connected, one on the left side and one on the right side. These two control the side to side height. One end is attached to the frame and the other to the axle. There is a slip ring on a vertical shaft that you adjust to get the right height.

Here is ridewells pdf file
http://www.ridewellcorp.com/We...ile/227%20SM1106.pdf


So once you have leveled it side to side then you adjust the front one to level it front to rear

Good luck

After a recent repair to cure the bleed down over night of the whole suspension the front started to bleed down while the rear maintained level. It is only now the the side to side shift has started. Is it possible the right front deflation could be enough to cause the entire coach to list even if the rear is properly inflated?

I've seen several instances where after using levelers the pivot assy swung around and started working opposite because it is pivoting backwards. You do have 2 levelers in the back correct?

Yes I do. What should I look for? And thanks, Bill

The level arms should be at an absolute 90 degree angle from the axle mounting point to the air valve arm.

Find the linkage that is attached to axle. Look up. Compare it to the other side. If it looks like it's on an angle that is not 90 degrees from the axle, then it probably swung around.

Most height control valves can be mounted using either side for supply or for actuation and the exhaust port would stay the same.

Also make sure that the mounting arm on the valve is properly attached. Sometimes the center bolthole (center nut) comes loose. Make sure all linkages are attached properly too.

Nowhere else could an RV owner get advice and solutions like Barthmobile!!! Bill, you are a genius - the ride height arm on the right rear has a rubber mount at the end of the are where it mounts to the axle and the rubber has broke, leaving the arm hanging down. Looks like another $5 part that is easily replaced. Now are these in any way "standard" or am I likely to have to get them from Gillig (for $20). To the rest of our members - I am sending in my "diagnostic contribution" today!!!

Replace all of the rubber swivel ends, on all height control linkage, as they are all the same age.

You can use a clutch or throttle pivot assy in its place. I've done this many times and I know you have them sitting on your shelf. If you use the good stuff, it will last longer too.

If not, you can get the kits from the manufacturer of the airvalve at most truck parts places.

Who makes your valve?

I don't know who makes the ones on the coach, but I have the metal type for carburetors and clutches. Is it a problem if there is no rubber insulator as part of the assembly?

No problem with a metal one.

Is it possible to post a couple photos of these parts so that other air suspension owners can see what you are referring-to???

THANKS!

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
Is it possible to post a couple photos of these parts so that other air suspension owners can see what you are referring-to???

At your service... Labeled and Explained.



The Height Control Valve and Related Parts.

The height control valve is attached to a part that does not move. Usually a cross member or even on a bracket that is attached to the frame.

Your air line feed and supply one side goes to the airbag as a supply line and the other side receives air from an airtank through a Pressure Protection Valve (see image below) check valve.

Your air ride arm is always at a level (in relation to the valve body) when it has stopped filling your bags. If the end of the arm that is farthest from the valve is going uphill, then your bags should be trying to inflate. If the arm is dangling down then it has either overfilled or your jacks are down. Also note the extra hole in this image. The shorter that this air ride arm is, the quicker the airbags will inflate/deflate.

The 2 rubber isolators are nothing more than a swivel point. You do not need to use rubber back in its place. Way back in the days when longevity was put above short term profits, people would put in a metal swivel assy.

The linkage is what connects the air valve arm to the axle and can be any length. The length is dependent on the height you wish the airbags to fill. You can adjust the height lower or higher by making the linkage longer or shorter.

The axle mounting stud is used to attach the linkage to the axle. These studs have been know to break off so inspect these. Usually it's nothing more than a long bolt that has been bent and welded to the axle.

The center nut is used to attach the linkage. These can come loose so check the nut/bolt

When I said to look for a 90 degree angle I was referring to the relationship between the air ride arm and the linkage

~What you see above is a a valve that has finished inflating the airbags. It now sits level and your coach should be level now.~

Pressure Protection Valve aka low psi cutoff
The only additional item you should check when diagnosing is the air feed line. Sometimes the low psi cutoff valve that feeds this height control valve will stick and not allow air to refill the bag. That airline feed valve that is plumbed into the tank is a low air psi cutoff valve.

The OEM replacement kit is Haldex 95250001 available wherever heavy truck parts are sold. They are common on semi trailers and cost $41 with tax for three new ones. Should be a five or six year replacement because of the rubber. Probably never if they are all metal and are lubricated from time to time.

A follow up to Bill's excellent picture: While replacing ALL the rubber insulated connecting rods I noticed that the two in the rear seemed to be different lengths. With the old arms it appeared one side was slightly higher from the ground than the other. I let the system inflate and measured carefully for level with a carpenters level placed on the rear bumper and found the passenger side was about 1/4 to 1/2 of a bubble low. Crawling under the coach I placed a torpedo level on the actuating arm of the valve and the right one was not EXACTLY 90 Degrees. I heard a hissing periodically as the system tried to deflate or inflate, I am not sure which, but after turning off the engine the low side (shorter connection) was not in equilibrium. I traced this and it was clear that after shutting down the coach the valve will be somewhat open and the entire system will slowly bleed down - Wow, I discovered why the coach settles overnight! I measured carefully, made both connecting arms connect at EXACTLY 90 degrees and tightened everything as Bill advised. After two days - the coach is fully at ride height and level in both side to side and fore and aft planes. These connecting rods have rubber ends to absorb small variation as the coach moves up and down so the system will only react to larger movements. They do stretch (and break) over time and may be the biggest reason for settling. Both sides have to be exact as any difference will have one valve in something other than closed position, and the system will try to compensate. The only tools needed are a 1/4 inch nut driver, a level, flashlight, and 7/16 wrenches to service these. Well worth the effort. Bill can add more, but this appears to have solved my problems.

Excellent post... Glad you made sure both sides are the same in the rear as any difference will make the other side compensate and then it will eventually settle the coach down from there.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
These connecting rods have rubber ends to absorb small variation as the coach moves up and down so the system will only react to larger movements.

These isolators are not made out of jello. There is no lag time because of rubber... They do not keep the air bags from slightly compensating, if anything they stretch out when warm and actually shrink or crack when cold. Rubber is a better shock absorber and might keep the components less stressed... but that's about the extent of it.

On really cold days we've done road calls where we reinsert the upper isolators back into the hole after pinching the metal loop or we replace the rubber. Too many times they crack or tear so I am really not a big fan of the older rubber ones. For the most part, all of you have the older rubber material.

I do admit however that the newer composite rubber ones, within the last 5ish yrs, seem to be alot better than the earlier ones. We carry these rubber kits on our road service trucks and do not make it a habit of replacing them with the steel ones unless all other avenues are exhausted. Remember, our company does 24hr-7day a week emergency road service so... we WILL MAKE IT WORK somehow.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
The OEM replacement kit is Haldex 95250001 available wherever heavy truck parts are sold.

Haldex Writeup



The newer number is Haldex 48100225 and is the longer linkage kit - you cut the linkage down to a manageable size.



One last thing to check... lower your coach levelers to lift your tires off the ground by a few inches. With your suspension hanging, make sure that you're not pulling the rubber apart from the weight of the axle. It should be loose... If they are pulling/stretching, then one of a few things might be happening.

1) you cut the rod too short
2) your suspension is worn out and in need of repairs
3) the air valve mount is bent up
4) the axle travel stops are worn or broken
5) use your imagination now as bent parts from a frame to the lower mount could be in play here... or a combination of a few items.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom K:
I am sending in my "diagnostic contribution" today!!!

Thank you Tom.