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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
This is directed to Bill NY or anyone else that may know the answer. I am replacing a bad 12 volt plug that connects two wires to the solenoid that is on top of the 8.2 engine. The plug has a ground wire and a hot wire. When I removed the wires from the back side of the broken plug I found a bare single strand wire running from the neg. wire to the pos. wire. About half way along there this wire is a red plastic dot a little larger than this "O". What is that and do I need it? If I do need it this will make it a little harder putting in the new connector plug. Jim 1985 Barth Regency | ||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Send me a picture please.
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Anyone?
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12/10 |
Most interesting.... First off wouldnt the pos to neg be a dead short? Could that red plastic thing be some kind of splice the mech used to feed the relay with positive? I took this drawing out of the service manual and it only shows ONE wire going to that soleniod... What was the other end of the mystery wire connected to? Is it possible it was also a POS wire? | |||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
My guess is that it is a capacitor put in place to smooth an erratic power surge which may have released the magnetic solenoid. Since a capacitor does not ground the circuit, it makes sense that it went from pos to ground. Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Patch, There are two wires in that solenoid harness. A positive and a negative. In the diagram you produced, you can almost see the two wires right next to the solenoid. The mystery wire was between the two wires just behind the connector plug similar to the one shown in your diagram. Like you said: That would be a dead short. The plastic thing must be keeping it from being a dead short. So what's the purpose of it. I think I'll just try starting it tomorrow and see what happens. The connector on mine was a straight one and not angled like the one in the diagram, so it is possible the whole connector was altered. Thanks for the diagram for it sure doesn't show something behind that connector. Jim | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Corey, If you are right, is there any danger to starting it and see what happens without it??? Jim | |||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
No danger, but if there is an erratic power supply it may shut the solenoid off unexpectedly. Or that is my theory at least. Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Ok! That is good news. I'll be starting it up tomorrow and see what happens. I think I'll keep that little mystery wire just in case it is needed. I should be able to figure a way to add it back, however I just hate to make splices when I don't have to. | |||
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7/17 |
Will agree with Corey that it look like a cap. mabey to prevent burning contacts on operating relay or switch when solinoid field drops. would probaly reconect if it does not present a problem. Doorman 1986 31' Regal -1976 Class C 454/T400 P30 -350/T400 G30 twin cntr beds - 21' rear bath | |||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Thanks for all the imput. The Barth started up right away and ran with-out a problem. So I guess the mystery wire is not needed. My prayer now is the solenoid won't miss it. | |||
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10/10 |
The device you are looking at is an overvoltage transient suppressor or MOV (metal oxide varistor) . I'm currently looking in my reference books to see if I can give you the spec's on it. We use to use them years ago to protective voltage sensitive devices from overvoltage spikes. I have also seen them used across coils/solenoids to help collapse the electrical field when the device is de-energized. Basically when a voltage spike ocurrs the suppressor breaks down (or shorts itself out) to bleed the voltage down to a safe level for the device it is connected to. Normally you don't find them on low voltage applications but almost always on higher voltage applications. I will post the spec's when I find them. Until then I wouldn't be too concerned. Roman 1993, 34', Regency, Widebody 300 HP Cummins 6 spd Allison, Spartan Chassis | |||
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10/10 |
Found it It's a 17 VRMS, 22 VDC MOV. This mean it will protect the device from voltage spikes greater than 17 volts RMS and 22 VDC. It crosses to an ECG 1V017 or to an SK MV17B. These MOV'should be available at Radio Shack for about 70 cents each if you want to put one back. They are not polarity sensitive so it doesn't matter which lead goes to the negative or positive. 1993, 34', Regency, Widebody 300 HP Cummins 6 spd Allison, Spartan Chassis | |||
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12/10 |
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" 9/11 |
Great research Roman - thanks! I don't think I'll be too concerned, unless someone with a 24 volt battery tries to jump the Barth- of course that won't be good for a lot of things. While on that subject I was told once to never let anyone do a 50amp quick jump as it could cause damage to the system. I have to agree with Patch- Barthmobile is the place to find out answers. We have a great mix of folks here and an excellent site. Someone here always seems to find the answer. | |||
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