Have you considered buying a manual?

And as in mr.bills pictures of the ignition modules,
if yours is the first one pictured,the one that goes on the side of the distributor,u will have to buy the special thin walled socket to remove and install this.I
dont know what the cost is now,but when i bought it, it was about 5 bucks.also it is very important that if u do have this type that before u leave the auto parts store,that u open the box of the ignition mod and make sure there is the little packet of dyelectrical white grease that must be cleaned off the side of the distributor and reapplied on the face part of the ignition mod that goes against the distributor.this is used to help keep the mod from heating up too much on the inside,which is the main reason that this style of module faulted, thus this is why ford changed the place where it was mounted in the future.

ZIM

Thanks Bill,
I will check the distributor for the shear pin but I still plan to replace the ignition module and control module as they are original and I can always use the spares.

quote:

Have you considered buying a manual?

I would really like to invest in a good manual.
I have the manual from John Deere is there another one that you are referring to?

quote:

Originally posted by Ray:

quote:

Have you considered buying a manual?

I would really like to invest in a good manual.
I have the manual from John Deere is there another one that you are referring to?

Again, I know zilch about Fords, but I am thinking about a manual, perhaps from Ford, that would cover the motor home use. Or an aftermarket manual, like Chilton or Haynes that would have wiring diagrams and trouble-shooting charts for problems. Does your John Deere manual cover Ford engine problems?

As an example, I use a Chevy chassis manual, a generic truck manual that has info for everything from pickups to potato chip trucks of my year. GM, every so often, also issued a motor home supplement that blanketed several years.

Another reason why everyone should have a manual, is that if a problem is over your head, or giving you difficulty, someone else nearby might be able to use the manual to help you.

A friend sent me a Dan Quayle joke this morning, and now I went and misspelled potato.

Bill H.
The Deere manual is really not a repair manual it is a exploded view of every component with associated PN's.It is very handy but does not have any schematics.
I always buy a Chilton for all my vehicles and will probably do that as well.

I had the opportunity to look at this coach awhile ago. What I found, and I suspect has nothing to do with your current problem is that there are some "electrical gremlins" that are intriguing: if you activate the 4 way flashers with the ignition on, the lights work (mostly), however, if you turn them on without the ignition, only those on the passenger side light up. I don't pretend to know how this can occur, but I wondered if the systems (tv's etc)installed and removed by two owners ago might have some connection.


Best of luck with getting it going

Regards Bud

quote:

Originally posted by bud@YXY:
there are some "electrical gremlins" that are intriguing:

Anytime things get crazy, grounds are a good place to start. Even if you don't cure the problem, you will have done some good preventative maintenance.

The item that says "Pickup Coil" this coil is located inside of the distributor and is a magnetic pickup device - you can remove it and check to see if there are metal flakes on the magnetic pickup. The "tone wheel" sends a pulse when it interupts the magnetic field and that triggers the ignition module to pulse the ignition coil that then sends a spark to the distributor.[/QUOTE]
Just got back in town and started back on this.
Here is what I have found so far.
The connector to the pick up coil has disengrated...
My question is, the pick up coil measures 600 ohms which I think is good. My concern is the mating connector does not look much better. In order to take that out of the equation, I am considering just
connecting these wires directly. If I do replace the pick up coil, how did you remove the amature on the distributor. Did you use a puller to do that. Did you have to replace the tiny roll pin?
To date,
I have replaced the coil and ignition module and am now focusing on the wiring.

Ray

Let's start with this first.

1) Do you have power to the red coil wire with the key on? This is the wire that is attached to the coil. There are 2 wires on the coil. A power wire and a ground wire. The ground wire makes and breaks contact. It will not be grounded full time. It only grounds when the module tells it too.

2) How much voltage is going to the positive post of the coil?

~Make sure your testlight is grounded to a good ground and not the negative wire on the coil.~

2) What style module do you have?

quote:

If I do replace the pick up coil, how did you remove the amature on the distributor. Did you use a puller to do that. Did you have to replace the tiny roll pin?

I would think driving out the roll pin and maybe pressing off the gear. The ones I have done fall off after driving out the roll pin. Keep in mind, yours is 17 years old and might not come apart easy.

You might be right. It could be the pickup coil. Did you test the ohms while it was mounted in the distrubutor? The ohms will change if it reads a magnetic disturbance.

It's freezing here. How warm is it in Ormond Beach, Florida? Would you send me a plane ticket? Keep posting, we'll keep trying to help.

Bill N.Y.

Bill,
1) Yes I have power to the red coil wire
2) I measure 11.5 v on the red coil wire
3) I have the same module you show in your drawing.

I measure 600 ohms while it was in the distributor. I have not replaced it yet as I think it is in the connector.



You have been much too helpful for me to rub it in and tell you the real temp here in Ormond now. ( But I do have the AC on

Well, yes. That is one nasty looking connector.

1) Mark the distributor in it's base. Place a mark between the distributor shaft and the intake manifold.

2) Mark the shaft to the inside of the distributor. A little line so you can tell how to put it back again.

3) Remove the hold down bolt that holds the distributor to the engine and pull the entire distributor out.

4) Take a thin punch and drive out the lower rollpin and pull of the gear. This is the distributor camshaft gear that turns the distributor that drives the oil pump.

-sometimes these gears are worn out - yep Napa has them too

Distributor gear and pin set
Item#: ECHDG308
Price: $34.49
-notice there is no hole - you must drill a hole in these -

5) Pull the distributor shaft free of the distributor housing

6) Replace that part.

7) reverse and reinstall.

If that is your problem it should start.

Now you should be close enough to the correct timing that it should start up. Keep your face away from the intake as it could backfire.

Set the timing with a timing light and the jumper wire removed. There is a jumper pin that gets pulled out. This jumper is for timing purposes only.

http://www.napaonline.com

All pictures linked from the Napa Site - I recommend Napa for several reasons

Nationwide warranty.

Lots of locations.

They have always treated me fairly.

Willingness to look up and track down anything.

Most stores are owned by a local person.

They are customer service oriented.

Their website is easy to navigate.

linkback for pictures.

˙ʎ˙u ןןıq- „ǝןƃuɐ ʇuǝɹǝɟɟıp ɐ ɯoɹɟ pןɹoʍ ǝɥʇ ʇɐ ʞooן ɐ ƃuıʞɐʇ sı ǝɟıן oʇ ʇǝɹɔǝs ǝɥʇ„
	1990 Barth Regis Widebody 8908 0128 40RDS-C1 L-10 Cummins Allison MT647 Transmission Spartan Chassis		1991 Medical Lab Conversion 9102 3709 33S-12 Ford 460 MPFI C6 Transmission Oshkosh Chassis
Quick Link: Members Only Link To Send Me A Private Message

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Keep your face away from the intake as it could backfire.

To be extra safe, keep a marine flame arrestor handy for stuff like this. I have heard some horror stories.

Otherwise, wear a fencer's mask or safety glasses when the carb is open.

Here is an update on the Ignition problem from hell.
I have replaced the following;
Coil.
Ignition Module,
Pick up Coil ( PITA to replace)
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Ignition coil Wire.


I have 12 volts supply to the Coil.

I have exhausted my limited ability to fix this and have a mechanic friend coming over Saturday to take a look before I start replacing wires.

I have also tried to order a real factory manual and I have found this from Helm Inc. This is just the Ford Manual and not the chassis.
Does this look correct to you ? It is kind of hard to tell from the description listed. I have not been able to find any thing on the Oshkosh/Deere chassis any thoughts on that?
Thanks
Ray


http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&...9JKFWHKA78XLQMVT6U0B

The Barth is Running !!!!

In addition to the parts listed below I replaced the ignition switch and the ignition key switch....and it still did not start...

The problem was the wire between the ignition switch in the steering column and the coil. I ran a new wire to the coil and she is running great... ( it should as the whole ignition system is new) Another benefit is I now know the ignition system inside out and also have plenty of spares..
Wanted to thank you all for your advice and help...

Coil.
Ignition Module,
Pick up Coil ( PITA to replace)
Distributor Cap
Rotor
Ignition coil Wire.