Thanks Bill. Plunger travel was less than the 1.5 you mentioned although I didn't actually measure it.
Is the treadle valve replacement too much for an old shade tree mechanic and better left to a shop?

quote:

Originally posted by Frank Strong:
Is the treadle valve replacement too much for an old shade tree mechanic...?

You should be able to do it. Take several digital pictures and drain out the air before removing any lines.

I agree with Bill N.Y. ...had I not been so mechanically inept and not been so focused on the brake-light problem [and would have known for sure that it was the Treadle Valve], I too, would have done this replacement myself.

I am currently at work, so I can't look at my vehicle ...but, as I recall:

1. As Bill stated, drain-down all the air from the system.

2. Inside the vehicle: Remove the cotter pin located at the end of the fulcrum pin [which actually holds the brake-pedal in place].

3. Slide the fulcrum pin horizontally out of place, which will completly "free" the brake-pedal from the Treadle Valve Assembly.

4. There are 3 bolts which run thru the floor and actually hold the entire assembly in place. Remove these bolts.

...the Treadle Valve should now be completly "free" from the floor of the vehicle and hanging in place by the air lines [several or them ...unsure of how many lines actually attach to the valve from below]. You might want to remaove the air lines B-4 removing the valve -or- just be prepared for the fact that once the 3 bolts are removed, there is nothing holding this valve in place but the air lines.

Once the air lines are removed, the Treadle Valve should now be completly "free" of "anything" and ready for the new valve replacement.

The Treadle Valve Assembly comes with everything, including a new brake-pedal.

I am not aware of any precautions, adjustments or specific techniques involved once the new valve is installed ...this is where one of you other experts needs to share your advice.

I only know the above "procedure" from my attempt at trouble shooting this problem myself ...I may be completly wrong about some of this, so anyone else is welcome to chime-in and correct anything I have written here.

As stated in my previous post ...this part had to be ordered from Spartan ...wait-time was about 5 days.

If I can share any further information regarding this situation, please don't hesitate to inquire.

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
As stated in my previous post ...this part had to be ordered from Spartan ...wait-time was about 5 days.

Air foot valves are very easy to come by. There is no special foot valves, for over the road equipment, that I am aware of, that requires it to be special ordered.

Chances are good the part that Medic37 has installed will have a small metal tag on it with a part number.

If you look at the valve chances are it's just a plain old E3 or E6 foot valve. There could also be a junction or check valve added to the side of it.



There are several variations of this valve.

There's the E6



Those are some of the more common ones. Check out this page and click on a couple of links to see if anything looks familiar.

http://allproducts.com/traffic/sanemech/series1.html

This is the complete and total problem with being mechanically inept ...not knowing what your doing [or exactly what you're trouble shooting], then putting yourself at the mercy of a diesel shop, where you're not really certain whether or not they're telling-you the straight deal or taking-you for a total ride.

Looks-like I could-have saved myself some bucks on that last repair.

...next spring, I will be looking for a reputable shop who is interested in taking-care of the customer and not how much they can take-you for.

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
Looks-like I could-have saved myself some bucks on that last repair.

Some people will not bother wasting the time on leg work. It might have been easier to put you off a little (allow them to do other work) and order up the part from the dealer based on the VIN number.

If it makes you feel any better Robin, you also purchased a shinny new pedal too. Not that you really needed it...

They may have indeed been charged a higher rate. Then the book time on that repair could have been x hours.

I'm not trying to make excuses; they should have ordered it by looking at it. They are either incompetent, lazy or greedy - traits of people whom you would not want working on your coach.

It's like sitting on a flight or booking a hotel room. You are bound to hear how much cheaper it was from another source.

Bill, I really appreciate your help. Can I order from the "allproducts" company as an individual or are they wholesale only?

Also, I'm looking for a supplier of the tilt telescope steering column in my Regency. I has about 1/2 inch slack at the steering wheel diameter which is caused inside the column -- not in the linkage. Any ideas where I can get a repair kit or complete replacement??

Again, thanks for your very thorough and detailed research of my braking problem!

quote:

Originally posted by Frank Strong:
Bill, I really appreciate your help.

You're Welcome.

quote:

Originally posted by Frank Strong:
Can I order from the "allproducts" company as an individual or are they wholesale only...tilt telescope steering column...Any ideas...?

I don't know the answer to either of these. Try calling allproducts. I linked them because they are supplying the picture image and if you choose to deal with them you can report back to us on how they treated you.

Do you know which valve you need? I've found lots of stuff on Ebay and by doing a Google search. If you know or Robin can tell you which valve then you've fought half the battle.

BTW: If you know which valve it is and it comes in different threaded port sizes... Measure them for thread size or order larger. It is far easier to bush down then to try and go larger!

Good luck and keep us posted!

I am not "seeing" any specific numbers on the valve that would identify-it specific to this dialog.

It, however, clearly looks-like an E-6 Style Duel Brake Valve, with 8 ports [2 ports "stacked" on each of 4 sides].

I went-back and looked-at the repair order, stating:

"No numbers on Treadle Valve" - "Need to call Spartan to locate correct valve".

I was then "told" by the service manager that it was being ordered from Spartan.

...I rather doubt that it was, as you had implied in your posts Bill.

Very simplistically, and as you also stated Bill:

"...they should-have ordered-it by looking at it."

I can't agree with you more after simply looking at it and comparring it to the photos that you had posted.

...and as you have advised Frank, it looks-like the primary concern would be the thread and port sizes.

Otherwise, it definitly looks-like an E-6.

Learning the hard way ...or better-yet, the expensive way.

Thanks for all your insight!

quote:

Originally posted by Medic37:
I was then "told" by the service manager that it was being ordered from Spartan.

...I rather doubt that it was, as you had implied in your posts Bill.

Thanks for all your insight!

"They are either incompetent, lazy or greedy - traits of people whom you would not want working on your coach." (Bill N.Y.)

Well then, I would say that they must be greedy! It's a shame that you were treated so poorly. Some people see a home run in every swing - that business is short sighted.

Thanks for the feedback on the E6 valve - Let's hope this post will help others out in the future.

"You can get eggs from a chicken for a long time - slaughter it and you eat for one night." (Bill N.Y.)