My '94 28' Breakaway, for some reason doen't have a ladder installed - does anyone know where one suitable can be found?

Rusty,

You may have already looked here, but there's an e-Bay store that has ladders with adjustable hinge points to follow any body contour.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-LADDER-hinged-bent-ba...4613688643QQtcZphoto

Thanks for the heads up...unfortunately, the only ladders I've been able to locate are by TopLine (as is this one), and they have a reputation for being flimsy... http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm?skunum=6591&tab=reviews

Here is a web site for custom made motorhome ladders, unfortunately, I have no information on the quality or their products.

http://www.all-rite.com/allriteladders.html

My Barth did not have a ladder when I got it. I purchased mine from All-Rite and can tell you I've had some pretty big guy's going up and down the ladder.

They now have custom made ladders that you can get to the correct width. Mine was the universal one and it worked out well. If I was to replace it I would go custom as the gap is not 100% as I would want it.

Before you order it go out to the Barth and look at you rivets. This will tell you how wide you need to go. My rivets are closer then the ladder is wide so I'm using the inner part of the mounting brackets to hold it up. Keep in mind that the overall length is shorter because the lower panel above the bumper has no back support to it.

The back end of mine is flat but your coach should arc inwards. Keep this in mind when ordering. I have seen several Barths with a small step that goes below the tail light and then starts back up again above the light. This is a small two piece unit. Mine just goes over it without worring about the tail lights getting blocked. Really not an issue.

The All-Rite site also has the luguage rack trim. This I think is more of a hazard. If you trip on it your toast. I have been up on my roof alot and can feel when your getting to the edge. I just think for me it was better.

The All-Rite ladders come out from the back of the Barth in several different length. I got the 6" offset. If I was to do it again I think the 8" offset would have been better. Another thing about the All-Rite is you can order more supports for the ladder if you feel it's warranted. I have just 2 and feel it to be just fine.

Thanks all for the links and info. Bill N Y, how did you attach the brackets? Did you use a backing plate or just sheet-metal screw them into the frame?

It sounds like All-Rite doesn't supply brackets or standoffs I'll have to get them elsewhere.

My SOB has the usual potmetal brackets, which are lousy - were you able to snag something better (aluminum or SS, maybe?)

My Breakaway does have the slanted rear panel; I'm sure All-Rite could bend to match if I sent the pitch angle.

Try this link first Rusty,

http://www.all-rite.com/universalracks-ladders.html

Don't forget to try this too.

http://www.all-rite.com

When you go to the main page the other windows open inside of the main page and doesn't change the address up top. When you get there you'll see what I mean. Your better off looking at the main page and navigating but still check out that link I posted first.

I used no backing. I attached the ladder directly to the rivet frame. Look at your space between the rows of rivets. This will tell you alot.

Thanks again! It looks like I can get the brackets and standoffs from them as well. Are the brackets/standoffs one piece? It looks like the standoff tube is welded to the attachment plate.

Anyway, the standard curved ladder just might do it, since the joint is adjustable.

Any idea of the prices?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
The standard curved ladder just might do it, since the joint is adjustable.

Look at the width. I thought the same thing and when I got mine, I could use it but, the space for the mount was narrower so I only used the inner mounting holes to mount mine.

Go outside and look at where you want to mount it. Look at the rivets. Measure between the rivets. This is center to center measurements. Take that and call the All-Rite people and tell them the "center to center" mounting is X and then find out from them if it will fit.

I use to know this. Some help here. What is the channel thickness. Is it 2 inches?

Anyway once you have the rivet center to center this is where your going to mount it. This is where all of the support is.

Like I said earlier. If I was going to do mine again I'll go with a custom size just to get the width a little narrower.

So you ask: Bill, why didn't you use all 4 of the holes? After I mounted it I did a pull test. Then a wiggle test. Then a jump up and down test. Then I checked my neighbors SOB and mine was still stronger. So I left it.

I didn't want to drill holes into the skin if all it was was cosmetic. There was no real strength in doing it and I felt that one day I would do something else and use those holes as my outer mounting holes and still be able to drill new inner holes.

I don't have a ladder either and have been looking around and most of what I have seen seems very flimsy. However I was at Home Depot yesterday and I noticed an aluminum ramp set that had just the right curve and looked like the right length. Very strong but closer spacing of rungs (due to being a ramp. Looks very promising. Check it out just might do the trick. I think I am going to try it.

I went down to my Barth and got some info that may help you. The center to center mark on my ladder is 11". The center to center marks on my coaches rivets were 9". The stand-off is 6" but that is measured from the outside of the ladder to the mounting bracket base. This gives the stand-off brace a 5" overall length by itself. If you do order from these people check to see how they measure the stand-off. The tube material is 1" aluminum.

I had no place on the roof to mount it that was sturdy so I took 2" wide aluminum flat stock and laid it across the roof. I found three good attachment points and cut the flat stock down to size. This was then put back on the roof and attached to the roof support beams on the outside off the roof.

I attached the ladder to this flat stock to give it a real sturdy base. The roof, while sturdy to stand on, did not possess a strong enough mount to attach to the skin. There was no beams directly underneath it. I was afraid of tearing of the aluminum roof skin and decided the flat stock was the way to go.

When I got my ladder I looked at it and commented to myself how flimsy it looked. I was pleasantly surprised after mounting it how strong it really was.

That's just what I needed to know - and the custom ladder may be the way to go....

Now for Plan B...the Breakaway has no rivet rows on the rear panel, except on the edge. That panel is apparently bonded to some form of sustrate - it seems somewhat solid, but I suspect it's foam insulation.

Try looking at it early in the morning. See if there is more dew in certain areas. Look on the inside. If there are interior panels joined together there is a beam there.

Maybe something between the dew and the panels and the outer edge might work for you.

One other option is to have one custom made from mirror finish stainless. Check with a large marina or yacht builder in your area and find out who makes their hand rails. It is usually a small old timer shop that does nothing but handrails. the workmanship will be outstanding and you might be surprised at the cost. Remember a quote costs nothing. Just think how great a mirror finish SS ladder would look.