All,
On our coach, since we've had it this short time I've noticed it seems to get blown around rather excessively in cross winds and get different opinions on where to look first? This is my second diesel pusher I've owned of this size and am used to being blown left or right by crosswinds, however I was sold on this coach by reading how well they track.
I've heard: tie rod ends, shocks, need steering stabilizer, check king pins, tighten steering box.
I don't want to buy a steering stabilizer if this isn't the issue.
Any ideas where to start looking.
Thanks

What chassis is your coach?

Spartan Chassis.

It could be as simple as over inflated tires. Radials really do not like overinflation. They do not alway track well. Get your coached weighed by axle and then get a tire chart to determine the correct pressure.

You have a short coach with a lot of rear overhand. You may want to check your radius rod bushings.

You have mentioned most of the other possible .problems

I get blown over to the side when a large truck passes me from the rear, if I am going 60 and they go by at 70 it can nearly move me out of my lane.

However, head on passing traffic, on those straight two lane Texas roads causes no problems at all when a truck or bus passes at 70 MPH. I don't even feel it passing.

Side winds only push me to the side and unless they are really gusting I just need to compensate for the side force.

I have some trouble on crowned or worn roads, some of then really cause tracking problems, usually only on really busy highways, during the rain, when I am not sure where I am going......

Tom

This is really wierd. My 28' Breakaway with its stubby wheelbase should be worse than the longer, heavier coaches. Apparently not. It tracks like it's on rails, and a semi going by gives me a little nudge, that's all. It does have Steer-Safe, but I don't know that is the secret.

Possibly the stiffer (all leaf spring) suspension helps.

With a long overhang in the rear, any lateral play in the rear suspension is going to exaggerate the effect of passing traffic. Step one is be sure all your spring & other suspension bushings are fresh & tight, & rear tires properly inflated.

Step two is a track bar (panhard rod) to eliminate any remaining lateral play in the rear suspension. Some have discussed using a Watts linkage, but that's overkill in a truck suspension.

It also helps if everything is up to snuff in the front end, too. Any looseness up there, or excess play in the steering will exaggerate the amount of correction necessary to compensate for a semi's bow wave.

I had a s.o.b. with single rear tires, lots of rear overhang, & a severe oversteer & tail wag problem. My local 4x4 shop fabricated a short (maybe 18" or less) track bar with one anchor welded directly to the axle housing. Cured 90% of the problem & was working fine when I sold it.

Hi Strat
We have similar coaches. Ours is steady as a rock in all conditions, and we've faced some wild cross winds a few times. We have 109" rear overhang on a 228" wheel base, and like you, that overhang carries a big cummins/allison.
You are on the right track with your checklist but I'd put tires and tire pressures at the top of it.
Rest assured, when you find and cure the problem you will love the way she handles. You can't beat that full air suspension and brakes!
We will get to see how well ours does when we head out for Arizona in a couple of weeks.
Don

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
This is really wierd. My 28' Breakaway with its stubby wheelbase should be worse than the longer, heavier coaches. Apparently not. It tracks like it's on rails, and a semi going by gives me a little nudge, that's all. It does have Steer-Safe, but I don't know that is the secret.

Possibly the stiffer (all leaf spring) suspension helps.

How close is your actual weight to the chassis GVW? Quite often, the more headroom, the better the handling.

It also sounds like the last front end guy who worked on it knew his stuff. It might be a good idea to check and record the settings just in case.

quote:

Originally posted by Don in Niagara:
You are on the right track with your checklist but I'd put tires and tire pressures at the top of it.

quote:

Originally posted by Gary Carter:
It could be as simple as over inflated tires. Radials really do not like overinflation... Get your coached weighed by axle and then get a tire chart to determine the correct pressure.

Without a doubt, tire psi and then tires would be where I would start first.

It cost you absolutely nothing, but effort, to add or subtract air psi from tires.

Proper air pressure is critical to safety and proper RV ride and handling. Check the Barth data tag for the proper tire pressure specifications. You should also check your tire manufacturer for tire inflation info. Tire PSI is always checked COLD.

What brand tires do you have?

Bridgestone Tires

Michelin Tires

Goodyear Tires

Toyo Tires

BTW: The tires PSI reading you see stamped on the tires is for the maximum load rating of the tire.

Sidenote to owners of a GM Chassis. Check your Bellcrank Assy.

quote:

How close is your actual weight to the chassis GVW? Quite often, the more headroom, the better the handling.

It also sounds like the last front end guy who worked on it knew his stuff. It might be a good idea to check and record the settings just in case.

The GVW is 6,000 front, 10,000 rear. Typically loaded, I run 5,500 front, 10,400 rear. I've compared rear suspensions with photos of those on 30' Breakaways, and the axle and number of leafs is the same. I do inflate the tires to mfr's specs for the extra weight.

Front end was set on spec, checked recently, and hasn't wavered. I do lube all chassis points every 12,000 miles, which my prevent wear some other owners experience due to prior oversight.

Tires are 8R19.5 all around, Bridgestone in back, Wanli in front. The Wanlis are Chinese, but I had to replace the Kellys while at a star party, and these were recommended over Michelins or Goodyear, which the dealer also carried. With 10,000 miles on them, I can say I'm very pleased. Handling is marginally better than the Kellys, but that may not be a fair assessment because the Kellys had incipient sidewall separation (Blisters).

As to pressure, I run 95 psi in front, 105 in back. This is more than the Barth plaques, but in line with mfr's specs. I carry 5 psi over necessary because I'm generally running north in to lower temps, and so lower cold pressure.

Bridgestone's specs are a bit hard to find; go here, and scroll down for the 8R19.5

Not to contest bill h's mention of over filling radials, but my Tire Guy (since retired with 40 years in the biz) recommends max sidewall spec pressure in cars and light trucks. RVs, to table specs.

Thanks Rusty. I run BSs and the coach plate says 65 so that's what I've always run. BS's chart STARTS at 70 and puts me about 80. Next trip I'll go to 80 and see if it makes a difference.

I JUST PICKED UP OUR 32 FT. TODAY WHEN I DROVE IT FOR A SHORT TIME IT FELT OK ON THE TEST .TODAY A LITTLE WINDY STILL FELT LIKE ON A BOAT BUT STAYED ON THE ROAD WELL. HAD TO WORK AT IT.THEY PUT ON NEW TIRES TODAY RODE FUNNY AND IT WAS ON I75 AND IT IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION SO HALF ON FLAT PAVEMENT OTHER SIDE OF COACH WAS ON TEMPORARY ROAD WHICH IS NOT FLAT.I HAVE TO GET STEERING TIGHTER FELT LIKEI WAS OVER STEERING.GUESS I WILL CHECK TIRES NEXT.ALSO COACH WAS EMPTY JUST ME.

quote:

Originally posted by lenny and judy:
THEY PUT ON NEW TIRES TODAY RODE FUNNY AND IT WAS ON I75 AND IT IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION SO HALF ON FLAT PAVEMENT OTHER SIDE OF COACH WAS ON TEMPORARY ROAD WHICH IS NOT FLAT.I HAVE TO GET STEERING TIGHTER FELT LIKEI WAS OVER STEERING.GUESS I WILL CHECK TIRES NEXT.

Check the tire pressure.

If it feels like you're riding on marbles... Chances are, you have "Too Much" air pressure in your tires.

After you check and adjust your tire pressure readings based on the weight and RV recommended pressure test drive it again.

For tire pressures, you need to start with the tire manufacturer's recommendation for the weight. Each wheel (or drive axle pair) must be weighed and recorded. Then, all the wheels on each axle should have the pressure required by the tire that is the most heavily loaded.

Once you are at tire manufacturer specs, you can go a little higher if you wish, but never lower.

Wheels are also marked for max pressure. Usually under the dirt on the inside.