Back when I sold boats, I used to always correct people that confused cavitation with ventilation. When the prop sucks air from above the water line, you are ventilating the prop. When you look at an aluminum prop and it is all pitted, it is likely due to cavitation. Cavitation is the explosive force of H2O changing to a gaseous state and back due to changing pressure. In the props case, the spinning of the prop creates this differing pressure.

So what does this have to do with RVs you ask? Diesels have an issue internally, in the cooling system, with cavitation too. How you ask? Read this article and you will be an expert:

http://www.oilburners.net/arti...cavitationartic.html

Very enlightening! So do you use these products? When some talk water wetter and some other products is this a similar product? You guys are some of the most well versed in the broadest range of things to keep our Barth's running. When I quit farming I have forgotten a lot but we never did a lot of the things with our truck and tractors you guys talk about on a regular basis. I'm working on what I can as I can and learn something from you all everyday reading the posts. Lots of times I don't have to ask questions because others do. Thanks

Dana,

I think the secret is to use the coolant/filter specifically designed for your engine. The manufacturers spec certain coolants with properties designed to combat the cavitation problem. My old 8.3 Cummins in the Barth had a specific coolant filter that had a lubricant built in that would slowly dissipate into the coolant adding protection.

For a story of woe in coolant flushing/radiator rodding, read this tale (warning, it goes on and on).

http://www.wanderlodgeownersgr...owthread.php?t=10880

I haven't read the article yet, but this is why you would never use water alone. The explosion of the air bubbles against a hot surface will cause massive pitting in the liner sleeve.

If you haven't had the contents of your coolant checked for depletion, it might be a good time to have a sample drawn or to flush and refill your system with the extended fill coolant.

I have seen large boat / ship props with incredible burn holes in them. It's hard to believe this can be caused by water!

The most amazing thing with diesels, is the high compression of the diesel ignition is enough to expand the cylinder like a balloon. This happens so rapidly, the coolant is depressurized into gas if not treated along the cylinder wall. This explosion can erode iron.

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If you haven't had the contents of your coolant checked for depletion, it might be a good time to have a sample drawn or to flush and refill your system with the extended fill coolant.

It is in my plan.

quote:

I think the secret is to use the coolant/filter specifically designed for your engine. The manufacturers spec certain coolants with properties designed to combat the cavitation problem. My old 8.3 Cummins in the Barth had a specific coolant filter that had a lubricant built in that would slowly dissipate into the coolant adding protection.

I'd imagine there could have been mixing and other offenses to the cooling system. I'll have to look up what the recommendations for the 5.9 are before I flush it. I take installing a filtering system is a good idea.

quote:

If you haven't had the contents of your coolant checked for depletion, it might be a good time to have a sample drawn or to flush and refill your system with the extended fill coolant.

cavitation ......... and yet another concern and expense for casual diesel users, just wondering.

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cavitation ......... and yet another concern and expense for casual diesel users, just wondering.

It's no real expense, you just need to use the right stuff. Don't use the right stuff, yup, big expense!

Normally not of much concern for not sleeved engines such as the 5.9B. However, that is what Ford also thought back in the days of the 6.9 and 7.3 Navistar engines. The ended up replacing a large number of engines when the cylinders started leaking.

Cummins says just use a 50/50 mixture in the 5.9B, although I still use a wetting agent.

The 8.3C and all others that use replacable liners require the wetting agents. Cummins makes it easy with a replacable filter.

You can go by any Cummins dealer and purchase a strip and dip the coolant yourself. There is a comparison chart on the back of the envelope to identify your coolant's current condition which also tells you how much SCA to add. It is Fleetguard (Cummins)part number CC2602B and are about $2.00. Beware that the coolant filters are available in different amounts of DCA and some with zero. Most places usually stock the 2 unit part number, but 2 units may not be what you need, check it first!

Concurring with Bill N.Y., I recommend that you flush the system and refill it with "Final Charge" (Texaco Brand) or "Rotella Exended Life" (Shell Brand)organic based coolant which has a service life of 6 years and requires NO additives except for a "Booster" at 3 years. It is a very distinct RED color and you can buy almost anywhere now. All of the new diesel motorhome chassis come with this stuff now.