In case I wanted to race my Barth, and I know this community would never do such things as removing any emissions equipment but if one was to consider this, I would start with removing the air pump and associated plumbing, plug the lines going into the headers, and ect..
Any recommendations on this from any other Barth Racers ?? ....

I have a Ford 1990 460 with Carb...

I did it with my 454, easy. besides the pump mtg bracket was cracked.
Charles

"Any recommendations on this from any other Barth Racers ?? ...."
I've done several Chevys, never a Ford, and no recommendations as to how but I'd do it soonest. Dump the air pump , bracket, etc. Be real careful removing the 17-yr-old plumbing; don't "do a Gunner" and break it -or them- off flush with the manifold.
And now you have a "spare" crank pulley belt groove.

Be sure to save the parts so when Big Brother forces checks, you can make it legal. Or at selling time. Depending on your state laws, selling a vehicle with altered emissions equipment can be a sack of snakes.

I don't know about Fords, but GM AIR pumps sieze up if left dry so run some oil through it before removing it.

Years ago, when I fancied myself an M-B mechanic, I did a lot of "emissions control" mods on '68-'72 280 carburetted engines. Not only did these mods increase fuel economy from around 10 mpg to around 15-18, but the emissions after modding the "controls" were 30% less.

I'm not sure that any manufacturer's solution was done as a balanced endeavor, more likely an add-on to appear to reduce emissions.

I think, however, that the GM air pumps are pretty benign, since they have sloppy tolerances and so don't really draw much power. By the same token, that means they were also pretty ineffective.

Note that many of the pathetic "emissions controls" consisted of simply retarding the spark, which really lowered economy. Play with ignition timing, as I've found that in most cases it can be advanced 4° to 8° without encountering incipient knock.

The AIR pump neither helps nor hurts performance or mileage. All they do is blow a little air into each exhaust outlet to assure a little more complete combustion of unburned hydrocarbons. This all takes place after the power is developed in the engine, there is little effect on power economy.

My 1991 MPFI 460 Ford has both of my air pumps and plumbing removed.

It was rather painless to do and it makes it easier to work on the engine too.

My air pump lines go back to the cat converter. The cat converter is hollowed out and the holes are capped and welded shut.

I believe that 1990 carb 460 has 2 air manifolds with 4 runners attached to each exhaust manifold. I remember ordering my new headers and I had to return the first set.

The second set was a little better but I needed "tweak" the EGR tube to get it to work. Yes, I still have my EGR hooked up.

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It was rather painless to do and it makes it easier to work on the engine too.

That is why I am making this the second project on the Barth , as I was crawling over the engine working on the ignition problem, I thought this would be much easier with out all that stuff in the way....