My accelerator cable is stretched to the point that I can't adjust it anymore. How hard is it to change this? Where do I get a replacement?

Thanks,
Rick

First question: Is your cable really stretched, or is its housing not properly anchored on one end or the other. Cables rarely stretch, housing anchors often become displaced, particularly at the carburetor end.

Second question: Which engine/chassis combination do you have? If it is a Chev. P-30 w/454, most any good parts house should accommodate you.

I have a place in Walden NY that make up any style cable - be it clutch or throttle.

Amthor's Welding in Walden 778-5650 or 778-5577

It's a Cummins 5.9 with an Allison 6 speed. I've adjusted it as far as I can.

Hey Bill,

How do I measure it to place the order? It's a 33 foot regency with a Cummins 5.9 and an Allison 6 speed. Is it hard to install this cable.

Rick

I'll see it in a few days Richard and let you know then.

I also have been wondering if there is special lubricant to use on those long throttle cables.

What is the symptom that leads you to the conclusion that the throttle cable is stretched?

There is adjustment at both ends for a rear engine application. If you are out of adjustment range at one end you can provably get some of that back by adjusting at the other. As has been said, it should be a balance between the outer sheath and the inner cable, maybe the outer sheath has slipped causing the problem.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
I also have been wondering if there is special lubricant to use on those long throttle cables.

There is a cable lube aerosol for motorcycles, which comes with a clamp/around fixture for injecting it at one end until it comes out the other. I have used it on street bikes forever.

On desert bikes and dune buggies, I used Dri Slide because I knew of its non-oily properties and staying power when dry. I had no reason to think the cable lube was oily, just played it safe.

quote:

What is the symptom that leads you to the conclusion that the throttle cable is stretched?

There is adjustment at both ends for a rear engine application. If you are out of adjustment range at one end you can provably get some of that back by adjusting at the other. As has been said, it should be a balance between the outer sheath and the inner cable, maybe the outer sheath has slipped causing the problem.

I know this is stretching it (sorry ) , but here is another possibility: If the outer housing is spiral-wound, and is damaged by external force, it could be stretched, but will compress when force is applied, giving the feeling that the inner cable is stretching.

I'm with billh on both counts. Yamaha had a lube back in the 70's that connected to a clamp-on device and forced the lube throught the cable. If memory serves, the best one was a graphite based lube. Understanding how a control cable works will explain why a damaged outer casing will render it useless. The inner cable only does what it does because it is working against the outer housing. If the outer housing is collapsing, as bill said, no amount of adjusting will make the inner do it's job.

The adjustment on the engine side is maxed out. There is no adjustment on the front side. To be able to bring the idle up to 700 rpm, I'd have to remount the bracket that holds the u-shaped clamp which holds the rear end of the cable in place. I've already adjusted the cable assembly as far as I can. So the cable must be stretched.

Rick

Now I see what you are trying to do, raise the idle. This is NOT the correct way to increase the idle on the 5.9. There is an idle adjustment on the injector pump that should be set without any throttle cable tension. The throttle cable should have a slight amount of slop in it and the idle should be at the recommended RPM.

I am at an ORR now (tomorrow is the main race) and can not take any pictures of the adjustment but when I return home on Monday, I will scan the 5.9 manual concerning idle adjustment and post FYI.

quote:

Originally posted by MWrench:
This is NOT the correct way to increase the idle on the 5.9. There is an idle adjustment on the injector pump that should be set without any throttle cable tension.

I met up with "Rick" during the GTG this past weekend. I showed him the correct way to increase his idle. I asked him to update this thread so look for an updated description on how he did this and why he decided to use the cable instead of the idle adjustment bolt.

Better late than never.

Been off the air for awhile dealing with the mold in my study. As Bill said, he showed me the right way to adjust the idle speed. Interestingly enough, the two nuts you need to turn are METRIC. You loosten the stop nut then turn the adjuster OUT to increase idle speed. It took less than one turn. Thanks, Bill and everyone else who offered help.

Rick