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4/11 |
My dash lights were not working. Playing with the headlight switch the rheostat was grinding so I figured the switch was at fault. I looked under the dash, saw the switch but I could not pull the stem out of the unit, old style push/pull headlight switch. It has a small spring loaded button to push in and then just pull it out. I did not want to destroy the switch before I got a new one so I went to Advance Auto to buy one. I was sure it was a GM product as the ignition, heater/ac controls are GM. So sure enough they find the switch listed under a 1978 Chevy S10 pickup truck, which sounds old but they did use the switch up to 1988, my RV is a 98. Finally got the stem out and unplugged the switch from the plug, which was melted on one connector. OK put it back together and went to buy the connector which is not sold anymore. The only source is a junk yard. Looking closely at the switch the melted plastic was on the switch and not the spade connector. Great, clean the spade connector and away we go. The stem would NOT go into the NEW switch, would not latch. By now I am 500 miles away from where I bought the thing, into a new Advance Auto and after testing (destroying at the counter) 3 more switches the guy said he only had one more, go put it into the RV and see what happens. I installed and and after a fight the stem caught. Yea! Problem solved. Nope! Three days later I went to turn on the headlights and the stem would not pull out farther than the driving lights. Into another Advance Auto, this one in Carlsbad, NM. The box for this switch was different than the other 5 switches. This one connected just fine, the stem slid into place and all works just fine. I had expected to spend about 30 min fixing this thing and it took weeks. I think this is one of those Gotcha's Tom Tom Loughney Barthless.... | ||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Tom, you know, it's always something. Sorry you had so many problems, but... ...could you post the correct part number so the next person will not have to go through what you just went through
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2/16 Captain Doom |
Sounds somewhat like the issues I went through with the turn signal stalk...mine had been patched together when I got the coach. The Chebby dealer and I went through three guesses before the fourth would fit, although I had to splice the old connector into the wiring. Rusty "StaRV II" '94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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4/11 |
The Switch from Advance Auto for the headlights was from a GM product 1978 S10 PU but fit trucks until 1988. The Part number from Advance is S427Z. The 7 pin electric connector is not available any longer so they need to be taken from a junk yard or make up some spade connections to fit. This fit my 1998 Monarch. The problem was not with the switch as all of the switches fit and were the correct switch, I ran into a bunch of "defective" switches apparently from the same manufacturer (same color box) and when I got the switch from a new color box (which had spanish on the box) it worked just fine. I may have been a made in china product, vs a made in Brazil product! Tom Loughney Barthless.... | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
FWIW, my new switch came from NAPA, is US made and has been reliable. However, the switch is a little above its design limits when powering motor home and toad lights. A headlight relay can take some load off the switch. So can LED clearance and tail lights. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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