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Hey i have a 70 barth with the gm 350 in it... blew my radiator... will a stock gm 350 radiator work? or is there something funky bout the motors they put in the barths? | |||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
First off, welcome to the site. We would love to see a few pictures of your Barth. Do you have a tag on your vehicle that looks like this? What is the numbers of this tag? This one says 711899MC What is your vin#? That is on the tag that looks like this or on your registration. For 1970, I am pretty sure, the radiator is the same as the breadtruck chassis. Have you taken measurements of the old radiator?
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
I asked this, but then realized you might not know how to get a usable measurement. So, I thought I would post how you go about doing this. Is this a DOWNFLOW or CROSSFLOW radiator? What is the height and width of the core? What is the core thickness? This one might be the one that you need - let me know if this seems right. Crossflow Radiator Radiator Core Size : 26 3/8"h x 17"w x 1 1/4" (2 Row) Radiator Inlet Connector Size : 1 9/16" Top Left Radiator Inlet Header Size : 2 3/4" x 18 5/8" Radiator Mount Type : Channel Radiator Outlet Connector Size : 1 3/4" Bottom Right Radiator Outlet Header Size : 2 3/4"x 18 5/8"
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First Month Member 11/13 |
There is really no such thing as a stock GM 350 radiator. The 350 chev was used in so many different vehicles for so many purposes that you could go crazy. Best is probably to have yours recored by a good radiator shop who uses USA parts. Any extra money spent for an upgrade on the core could be a benefit, particularly if you tow or climb. Many replacement radiators are low quality imports. A bread truck radiator is likely to fit, but some MH builders ordered a heavier duty radiator from GM when the chassis was ordered. Some did that for all, some did it for none, and some did it for some, depending on length, engine, air conditioning, and whatever. Remember that even though a short MH with a smaller engine, the trans still puts a lot of heat into the radiator through the heat exchanger. While you have the radiator out, BE SURE to replace the short hose from the water pump up to the intake manifold. That hose is a bear to replace out on the road. I use a steel reinforced hose from West Marine to be sure it lasts a long time. It would also be money well spent to replace the water pump while the radiator is out, as well. Consider a high volume pump. If you buy an ordinary pump, do not buy one with a stamped sheet metal impeller. Insist on a cast iron one. There is a big difference in flow and how well they stay on the shaft. Also check the trans cooler lines for rubbing. They can wear through toward the front. If the nut on the fuel line to your carb is mistreated, now is the time to replace the line. It will never be easier. Anything other than a flare nut wrench or flare nut crowfoot is a leak waiting to happen. Since you will need to remove the fan clutch, consider a GM replacement now. They don't last a real long time, and starting out Barth ownership with a new one can be good. See how good I am at spending other people's money? . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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