I have a Kohler convident 7000(LP)That starts while I am holding the Button and shortly after letting off of it the engine quits.I have changed the Regulator and Spark Plug.Any ideas out their?

I had similar problem last summer. (Kohler 7000)Genset would not stay running when using the inside control switch. Mine is gaso but problem might be same.

Went to outside panel, fired right up, stayed running. Shut it off, went inside, still won't stay running from inside.

Problem: my switches are rocker switches: center run, momentary start, momentary shutoff. The one in the gen compartment was sticky and not returning to center after shutoff. (stayed in shutoff mode) The inside switch can override to crank but not for running.

I sprayed the switch and it returned to center, voila! the inside switch worked.

Might work for you.

Try these links.

http://barthmobile.com/eve/for...1087061/m/3731073572

http://barthmobile.com/eve/for...891000033#6891000033

I did what Richard did and even though most believe LP is inherently clean this fixed the problem.

The small filter at the front of the generator had stuff around it and as the generator ran I believe it was pulled up around the filter cutting supply. When the generator dies the particles would fall again and you could start the whole cycle over.

This is speculation from a visualizing mind. Replacing the filter and putting a large in line ceramic filter after blowing the lines fixed my problems

Thanks for the reply,I have checked both the inside switch and gen switch and both do the same(run until I release).I also took the air cleaner off and tried it .Tomorrow I will pull the lp line and see if I can get a ceramic filter after the line is cleaned .I will report in Thanks agian.

I am thinking that whe the starter button is engaged the coil gets 12 volt and when it is released the coil is no getting enough voltage and is shutting down.Does any one know the location of the coil on this gen.Just hoping that I don't have to drop it down

Most gen sets have interlocks. If conditions are not correct, it will not stay running after the manual start switch is released. If the unit stops, certainly the coil voltage has been interrupted but that isn't the root cause. something in the regulator or control unit is not allowing it to continue running.

could be:

Over/under speed
Over/under output voltage
Over temp, if it has a sensor or a bad temp sensor
Low oil pressure again could be a bad sensor
Low oil level, usually will not start if low oil level.

Have you confirmed the get set is producing voltage when starting and running with switch held on? If not, that is the cause for it to shut down. No output could be any number of things.

Bad control module
Bad output regulator
Loose or bad connections, broken wires.
Dirty/defective on/off switch(es).
Bad field circuit.

Mobile Pump and Generator
501-565-0009 located in ARkansas
I talked with "John".


You might give "John" a call. He's the Kohler generator guru. I bet he can tell you the problem before you finish your sentence.

I just ordered a new coil for mine from him.

K&E

quote:

Originally posted by Paul W:
Does any one know the location of the coil on this gen.

It is on top just to the right of the air cleaner. That is if you are facing the oil filter.

If you connect the small terminal to a hot battery connection, you will bypass a lot of the interlocks and the coil will have power all the time.

Another approach is to connect a 12 volt bulb to that terminal and observe it as you start and attempt to run.

Men you are some sharp guys wow. I Dropped the unit today and unpluged the unit from the chassis. I connected the gen up to lp & 12 volts It reacted the same so I checked the power from the stator as it was turning over and running ( it had voltage)once I released the button I lost voltage.What peaks my interest is powering up the coils with a seperate 12 volts. my next question is -thar little black peice between the stator and coils is that a resistor and do I need to put 12 volts in front or behind that?

I dont know your genset but alot of older model engines used a "ballast resistor" to power the coil so it didnt have full battery voltage when running.... While being cranked the ballast resistor would be bypassed allowing full batt voltage to the coil.... When the cranking switch was released the ballast resistor was back in the circuit.... If that "black thing" you mentioned is a resistor your can dissconnect it and test it with an ohm meter.....

I phoned John , he is a guru alright. He walked me right through the testing & t was no what I expected , He said the engine wad fine it is the generator that is not putting out voltage. John was correct after several voltage tests we came up with the stator "ouch" when I get it I will report back thanks every one

Paul,
As I am experiencing the same problem, can you give me an update? Was your generator operating fine previous to this problem?
What really is going to tweek me is the former owners just had this generator rebuilt prior to my purchase of the coach. And the closest Kohler service dealer is about 3 hours away. So if I need to rebuild it again I will have to seriously consider another manufacturer and just replace it...

Sort of off topic, but I once had a 75 Jag XJ6C. Valve guide slipped and valve went thru head and piston. Took it apart and had head redone, etc. Got it all teg, after sitting apart for a year (job went away at that time). Got it teg and cranked it and it would crank and shut off and crank and shutoff soon as I let go starter. So, I remembered where an old guy was that worked on British cars and paid him a visit. He pulls out a wiring diagram for the car and pointed to a circuit he had drawn in. It turns out there were what look like two oil pressure sending units but one a make and break and the other a break and make. They had added a circuit to kill the ignition to stop run on as the low octane gas was coming out around that time. I had the sending units reversed so as soon as it saw oil pressure, it cut the ignition.

Tom Taylor

quote:

Originally posted by tom taylor:
They had added a circuit to kill the ignition to stop run on as the low octane gas was coming out around that time. I had the sending units reversed so as soon as it saw oil pressure, it cut the ignition.

Tom Taylor

Hmmmm.......That's a little confusing. I should think that shutting off the ignition switch would have been sufficient.

(Insert Lucas humour here)

Most run-on situations I have had did not require spark ignition. Compression ignition was sufficient.