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Getting my Coach from Yuma all the way home!
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Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/22
Picture of Dana
posted
Hey Guys and Gal's,
The end of the month I will be flying to Yuma and taking possession of my Coach. I am currently in possession of the Barth Binder and Spartan Binder. I have been on site since December reading,gleaning and observing. You folks are all-stars in my book. Here is what I am looking for-opinions, advise from the Barthmobile family. My Barth was is closely related to Richard Muise's Coach. Here are the particulars.
1994 33ft Side Entry Breakaway
Spartan Chassis
5.9 230hp Cummins
Allison 3060 6 speed
Banks PowerPack
PacBreak
Solar

Here is what I know. There are many threads out there with info on everything I am looking for but a lot of them are a while ago. Times and opinions change. The Coach has been on no major trips in the past few years. It was lived in for many years as home and has 100,000 miles but was well cared for.
Here is what I am looking for feedback on tires,engine,tranny, things I need to have working for me to get home in one piece. The Wife, myself and the coach. The rest of the things involved are creature comforts and should not be an issue. Let me give you a little background. I farmed for 26 years so I am familiar with diesel and mechanics of similar drive trains. That is not to say I am a diesel mechanic but I understand the basics. Some of you folks have vast knowledge I may be tapping. I will post pics when I am in possession. Part of my traveling luggage will include a laptop so I may be asking for help of you on the trip. I am currently a manager with Cabela's so I loved seeing greg's new interior Camo-Great Job. Now to my post picture That's not a picture of me its a moose that I had to back up far enough to focus the camera. I couls have easily have put my arm around it. That's what we get up here in Minnesnowta!!


Dana & Lynn
1997 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Cummins 8.3 325hp
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
22.5 11R
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
8000 watt Quiet Diesel Generator
9608-M0022-38MI-4C
Christened Midnight

1972 22ft
72081169MC22C
Christened Camp Barth
 
Posts: 1416 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
"Host" of Barthmobile.com
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/19
Picture of Bill N.Y.
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quote:
Originally posted by Dana:
I farmed for 26 years so I am familiar with diesel and mechanics of similar drive trains. That is not to say I am a diesel mechanic but I understand the basics. Some of you folks have vast knowledge I may be tapping.
Tap away - good luck with your trip home. It sounds like you're pretty well prepared.

Look for the basics with hoses and belts. Tire age is a concern, read this post. http://barthmobile.com/eve/for...=372104523#372104523

Do you have a specific question that we could delve right in on?


˙ʎ˙u ןןıq- „ǝןƃuɐ ʇuǝɹǝɟɟıp ɐ ɯoɹɟ pןɹoʍ ǝɥʇ ʇɐ ʞooן ɐ ƃuıʞɐʇ sı ǝɟıן oʇ ʇǝɹɔǝs ǝɥʇ„

Regis Widebody1990 Barth Regis Widebody
8908 0128 40RDS-C1
L-10 Cummins
Allison MT647 Transmission
Spartan Chassis
Regal Conversion1991 Medical Lab Conversion
9102 3709 33S-12
Ford 460 MPFI
C6 Transmission
Oshkosh Chassis



Quick Link: Members Only Link To Send Me A Private Message
 
Posts: 5924 | Location: Newburgh, New York | Member Since: 05-10-2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/22
Picture of Dana
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One thing I have seen mentioned and ran across a number of time gleaning the posts is a mention of changing brake fluid. I have never changed brake fluid in anything ever unless I have blown a line and had to replace. Does brake fluid wear out? Being a sealed system why change?


Dana & Lynn
1997 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Cummins 8.3 325hp
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
22.5 11R
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
8000 watt Quiet Diesel Generator
9608-M0022-38MI-4C
Christened Midnight

1972 22ft
72081169MC22C
Christened Camp Barth
 
Posts: 1416 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Glassnose Aficionado
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 2/09
Picture of Danny Z
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From reading others posts here I think the biggest enemy of brake fluid is heat. A motorhome may require a lot of braking in long downgrade situations, getting the brakes really hot. After cooling down the brakes are fine but the fluid can be "cooked". Perhaps our more chemically astute members can explain it better.


79 Barth Classic
 
Posts: 3491 | Location: Venice Fl. | Member Since: 07-12-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Although I'm not a Barth owner, I am a GMC owner. I follow Barths, Bluebirds, Newells and GMCs. In an attempt to comment on the issue of brake fluid I thought it might be helpful to quote one of my fellow GMCers on the subject. Although this is a long and complicated answer, maybe it will help. I don't pretend that these are my views. Thanks
quote:
Brake Fluid
By Bob Paulin

Brake fluid does wear out and become contaminated.
Some people are still rejecting the notion of changing transmission fluid on a regular basis. How are we going to convince them that they should now change brake fluid regularly?

For years, many considered brake fluid to be a brake-job-to-brake-job service item. Do a brake job, and rebuild the wheel cylinders. Then, bleeding the brakes will flush the system - sort of.

Well, brake fluid always was, and continues to be hygroscopic - meaning that it absorbs moisture like a sponge. Leave a container of brake fluid open for a few hot, humid summer days, and it will likely absorb enough moisture to render it un-useable according to DOT specifications.

From a brake engineering point of view, absorbing and dispersing moisture throughout the system is good. It keeps moisture from forming in puddles within the system. Of course, these water puddles would settle into the lowest areas - such as wheel cylinders and calipers - where they can easily be boiled into steam by the heat generated by hard braking conditions and cause a loss of braking known as brake fade.

The downside of brake fluid being so hygroscopic is that the moisture dispersed throughout the system lowers the brake fluid boiling point, increases its viscosity, and promotes rust and corrosion.

• BRAKE FLUID SPECIFICATIONS

The DOT 3 specification requires a minimum boiling point of 401° Fahrenheit for "dry" brake fluid - fluid that contains no moisture whatsoever. To meet DOT 3 specs., "wet" or fully saturated fluid should reach 284° before boiling.

DOT 4 specs calls for minimum boiling points of 446° dry and 311° wet.

Most DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluids sold today meet or exceed the above specifications, but it is important to know the numbers.

NAPA DOT 3 brake fluids, for example, actually exceed minimum DOT 4 standards with a dry boiling point of 450°, while many of the cheaper brake fluids barely meet the minimum requirements to call themselves a DOT 3.

As with most other things there really IS a difference between a cheap brake fluid and a quality brake fluid.

DOT 5 is silicone-based brake fluid with a wet boiling point of more than 500° F.

You may ask yourself why the manufacturers do not simply switch to DOT 5 spec fluid. After all if some is good, more is better, and too much is just right. Right?

Well the DOT 5, while better under heat conditions than DOT 3 or DOT 4, does NOT absorb any moisture, so any moisture that finds its way into the system WILL puddle up somewhere causing rust, corrosion and, possibly, brake fade. You don't want slugs of water floating around any brake system.

Also, DOT 5 silicone fluid contains more absorbed air than DOT 3 or DOT 4 glycol, and it will aerate much more easily when it is pumped through small orifices such as those on an ABS system. For that reason, most manufacturers warn against using a DOT 5 fluid in cars with ABS.

DOT 5 is recommended for vehicles that sit for long periods such as antiques and classics that are stored all winter, and, of course, for racing due to its high heat tolerance. But conditions within the hydraulic system MUST be monitored.

• THE REAL WORLD

Even in sealed automotive brake systems, brake fluid will absorb one percent or more moisture every year simply from opening the reservoir to check fluid level, opening the bleeders, and through microscopic pores in the rubber hoses.

According to one trade publication we read, many two-year-old vehicles have been found to contain two to three percent water in the brake fluid. Imagine how much water must be contained in some six, seven, eight year or older vehicles that have never had their brake fluid serviced.

One percent water content can push DOT 3 fluid down to a 369° boiling point while two percent can push it down to 320°. Three percent can get it down to 293° - dangerously close to minimum DOT 3 requirements.

The rate at which this occurs depends on a lot of things such as the age of the vehicle and the type of hoses used. Better quality hoses are lined to make them less permeable to moisture. Some manufacturers chose to skip the lining in order to sell their product a little cheaper. You get what you pay for.

DOT (Department of Transportation) 3 and DOT 4 specification brake fluids are made from glycol and additives. Glycol absorbs and disperses moisture. The additive package helps to keep the moisture from attacking the internal components of the brake hydraulic system.

Another area of concern on today's automobile that was not a factor years ago is Antilock Braking Systems or ABS. There are many close tolerance components within the ABS system, and moisture can wreak havoc with them. Replacing a single ABS component is often much more expensive than a simple brake fluid service would have been.

The average car on the road today is 10 years-old. According to Brake & Front End Magazine, only half of these cars have ever had their brake fluid changed.

For the average motorist, there might not be that much risk under normal driving conditions. But, prolonged braking such as mountain driving and trailer towing might tax old brake fluid beyond its capacity.
 
Posts: 31 | Location: Americus, Georgia | Member Since: 05-06-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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My free advice on brake fluid is for flatlanders to change it every two years, and hill climbers do it yearly. If you don't know how old it is, change it.

Brake fluid which has a lowered boiling point gives no warning.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/22
Picture of Dana
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Seeing in my 1/2 century + of life I have never replaced brake fluid in any vehicle. How does one go about this process. How do you know when you have replaced it? I would assume you use the new to force the old thru the system and not just drain and try to fill and bleed?


Dana & Lynn
1997 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Cummins 8.3 325hp
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
22.5 11R
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
8000 watt Quiet Diesel Generator
9608-M0022-38MI-4C
Christened Midnight

1972 22ft
72081169MC22C
Christened Camp Barth
 
Posts: 1416 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/22
Picture of Dana
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Forget I asked-different colored brake fluid who'd uh thunk it? Didn't know there was such a thing. With the pac brake I may wait until I get home. I will find out if it has been changed and when.


Dana & Lynn
1997 38ft Monarch front entry
Spartan Mountain Master Chassis
Cummins 8.3 325hp
Allison MD-3060 6 speed
22.5 11R
Cummins Factory Exhaust Brake
8000 watt Quiet Diesel Generator
9608-M0022-38MI-4C
Christened Midnight

1972 22ft
72081169MC22C
Christened Camp Barth
 
Posts: 1416 | Location: Waseca, Minnesota | Member Since: 12-09-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
Picture of Moonbeam-Express
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Things are getting more complicated all the time. I went to change the brake fluid in my motorcycle, a BMW R1200GS. I opened up the front brake reservoir, put a looped piece of tubing on the bleeder,stuck that in a glass jar, and hit the brake lever. This bike has a pump that manages constant brake pressure so the ABS can modulate precisely. That should have been a CLUE! I watched a pint of fluid pump out the bleeder into my glass jar and no discernible level change in the master cylinder reservoir hmm Pretty soon I could hear that air was coming out the bleeder and still the reservoir is full hmm confusion

It turns out there are multiple closed fluid loops that all have to be bled separately. The front brake master cylinder and reservoir are not attached in any way to the brake caliper fluid loop.

I did the prudent thing and promptly loaded the bike in my trailer and took it to the nearest BMW shop for a proper fluid change. head bang




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2228 | Location: Laurel Park, NC | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
Picture of Moonbeam-Express
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And by the way...I never changed the brake fluid on my Barth.....and never plan to on my Wanderlodge.




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2228 | Location: Laurel Park, NC | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 12/10
Picture of Bones
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Moonbeam-Express:
Things are getting more complicated all the time. I went to change the brake fluid in my motorcycle, a BMW R1200GS. I opened up the front brake reservoir, put a looped piece of tubing on the bleeder,stuck that in a glass jar, and hit the brake lever. This bike has a pump that manages constant brake pressure so the ABS can modulate precisely. That should have been a CLUE! I watched a pint of fluid pump out the bleeder into my glass jar and no discernible level change in the master cylinder reservoir hmm Pretty soon I could hear that air was coming out the bleeder and still the reservoir is full hmm confusion


Is this one of the servo assist ABS brakes? I've read others that had the same problem and came to the same conclusion you did.


Regal 25 built in 1989
1985 P-30 chassis
454 TH400
 
Posts: 212 | Location: Somewhere in the SW | Member Since: 03-06-2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 1/12
Picture of Don in Niagara
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Hah!! Ya, right Cory!
They got air brakes!
Don
quote:
Originally posted by Moonbeam-Express:
And by the way...I never changed the brake fluid on my Barth.....and never plan to on my Wanderlodge.


1990 Regency 34'
Cummins 6CTA 8.3 240hp
Spartan Chassis,
4 speed Allison MT643
 
Posts: 630 | Location: Niagara Falls, Canada | Member Since: 11-09-2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 8/10
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Don't you still need to periodically change the air?



Ha! Ha!
 
Posts: 429 | Location: The Great Midwest | Member Since: 12-04-2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
First Month Member
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 11/13
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quote:
Originally posted by Dana:
Forget I asked-different colored brake fluid who'd uh thunk it? Didn't know there was such a thing.


Actually, even the same color brake fluid gets dark as it absorbs moisture, and the color change is fairly easy to see if it hasn't been done in a while.


.

84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered
 
Posts: 6169 | Location: AZ Central Highlands | Member Since: 01-09-2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
FKA: noble97monarch
Supporting Member of Barthmobile.com 3/12
Picture of Moonbeam-Express
posted Hide Post
quote:
Is this one of the servo assist ABS brakes?


Yup, each time you hit the brakes you can hear a little motor spinning up. Some BMW riders didn't like this system and they changed the design in later models to eliminate the motor, but I have found that I got used to them right away. The only consequence I have found is there is "immediate" braking power on the brakes, no ramping up like with a conventional, non assisted, manual brake. Therefore, you just have to ease on the brakes or they really grab! Of course, the ABS kicks in of you really overdue it.

I was riding in the rain the other day and hit the rear brake in a slight corner and it started to slide out - on some oil probably. It was so controllable I actually laughed out loud while still in a slight skid. With so many of my past bikes I would probably have felt a slight panic, but this bike just made me laugh. I'm glad no one was following on a hard-tail with ape-hangers, their hairy knuckles would have been scraping across pavement for sure.




Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch
Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited,
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.”
 
Posts: 2228 | Location: Laurel Park, NC | Member Since: 03-16-2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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