All,
Took the coach out this weekend and overnighted Abilene (115 miles away) and next AM coach started and then immediately died. Started generator, then started and ran. Ran some errands, 2 or 3 times same starting problems, toggled Pac Brake and then started and ran. Drove home parked and washed, would not start and run period. Cranks fine then instantly dies with or w/o generator running.
I remember the PO told me that this happened to him and showed me the lever on the IP to lift up to start the engine: lifted lever and held it up: son cranked and engine ran fine; released lever and engine died.
I took a coat hanger and manually fastened it up, started and drove to storage unit, no issues except engine will now not shut off with key, I had to remove the coat hanger and allow the lever to fall back down for the engine to quit.
I texted PO and he told me this turned out to be a low battery situation for him (I assume coach batteries). Voltmeter shows good 14volts, house batteries new. Coach batteries came with coach but crank fine.
Any ideas where to start looking? I am thinking my coach batteries may be on the way out but am confused that they crank so well without fail.
Any and all feedback appreciated.

It sounds like the fuel shutoff solenoid valve is weak (or now, dead). Hopefully, others will have additional suggestions.

Don't have an 8.3 Cummins, but on my 3208, had the same problem. Engine started totally normal. Ran for a few seconds and shut down. Replaced the fuel shutoff solenoid as suggested by Bill NY and mentioned above by Rusty. Cured the problem.

Nick

Rusty and Nick,
Thanks. This was one of my theories as their is a large solenoid that 'toggles' this IP lever I have to secure up to run now, this must be the failing solenoid.

Stratosurfer, that would also explain why you can't shut down with the key. You are manually keeping the solenoid from closing off the fuel.

Nick

All,
My mechanic replaced the solenoid and I still have the same problem. On the 3 wire connector to the solenoid he only finds power to one of them and says it should have power to two of them, one hot holds it open, one hot holds it closed and the other is ground. He was looking for the relays that control the two ends of the solenoid and I could not find any schematic for this. Anyone know where these might be located. Apparently they are not in the 'relay panel' in the forward compartment port side (driver side).
Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by Stratosurfer:
On the 3 wire connector to the solenoid he only finds power to one of them and says it should have power to two of them, one hot holds it open, one hot holds it closed and the other is ground.

Nope... that's not how it's wired.

1 is ground, 1 is hot while cranking, 1 is hot while running. The one that doesn't appear to be doing anything needs to be hot in the crank mode. That 3rd wire to the solenoid is a "pull in coil" while cranking.

If he doesn't know that, he is guessing. Do not allow him to hook up power to the pull in coil (hot while cranking only) of the solenoid all of the time. If you do, you will drive down the road and then burn out the solenoid in a very short period of time.

Check for power while cranking to that third wire. I would suspect that it is wired properly if it starts while cranking, and then dies out.

My best guess... the wiring to the hold coil (hot with key on) is weak. Test that wire for full line voltage with the key on while it is hooked to the solenoid after you tried to start it and it dies out.

There is NO such thing as sending power down the wire to force the solenoid to turn off. Lack of electricity does this.

Black Wire is ground

Red Wire is 12-14 volts with key on - hold coil

White Wire is hot while cranking - pull in coil

If all of that is correct and everything tests out properly, then you have a loose shutdown arm on the keyed shaft of the injector pump. This is allowing the arm to slip on the shaft that the shutdown solenoid plunger arm is attached to.

Sorry I didn't answer this sooner... I don't remember seeing it.

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had same problem with my boat.after a 2hr tow looked at check that a wire did not vibrate off ignition switch.mine started only when I had the key in hand as soon as I let go it shut down .Does yours do the same thing?
lenny

Problem solved and fixed. My mechanic left the new fuel shut off solenoid on there and gave it to me at cost, and found the relay that drives the solenoid. He replaced this and my problem is solved. Mech said it was best to leave the new fuel shut off solenoid on there for it may have contributed to the death of the relay...
Sooo... I'm fixed.
BTW relay was in engine compartment.
Did I mention mech found a leaking exhaust manifold: I'll start a new thread on this...