I have HWH leveling jacks and when I extend the jacks it will throw the circuit breaker. I have checked the voltage on the solenoid in the lower left electrical bay and to the solenoid on the pump. I get 12.8 volts on the incoming side and I get 12.5 or 12.6 on the outgoing side and get 12.5 at the motor solenoid using the same ground. Is this enough voltage drop from the incoming to the outgoing side enough to cause the circuit to break?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Sky

Ray, it's hard to determine the culprit measuring voltage because larger wires can carry more current (even enough to trip the breaker) than smaller ones.

If the breaker trips before the lifts hit the ground, one or more could be binding, although I'd guess that's unlikely.

Based on what's known so far, I'd suspect the pump, because if one lift were being cranky, the others should respond to the pump and not overload the breaker. There's also a remote possibility of a blockage in the pump discharge that's overloading the pump. Hydraulic pumps are "positive displacement", which means if there's a blockage in the output, they lock up (or blow a hose).

If it were I, I'd disconnect (or at least loosen until it leaks liberally) the pump discharge line at the pump and see if the breaker still trips; if so either the solenoid has a short or the pump motor is suspect.

Just based on likelihoods (i.e., wild guesses), the pump, being the most complex, would be the prime suspect. Next would be the proportioning valve, that operated by the joystick. Finally, the solenoids.

Consider disconnecting devices one at a time until the CB no longer opens.

Or measuring current to each device with a clamp-on DC ammeter. They are handy things.

Ray, where is the breaker that is tripping located? Is it on the breaker panel under your sofa?

If so then you have a couple of unused breakers, as I recall. One possible early trouble shoot step could be to move the wires from the tripping breaker to an unused breaker to rule out a faulty breaker. Sometimes breakers get 'tired' and begin tripping early.

Obviously, if it is located elsewhere, this suggestion is null and void!

Some questions for thought: When you activate to levelers, what are the results? Does the breaker pop instantly? Does the pump run for seconds before the breaker pops? Do any of the jacks move at all? What does the pump/jacks/relays/breakers do when you use the control to retract?

Rusty's suggestion of disconnecting the pump outlet hose is a good one and should provide a lot of info, albeit possibly messy on your new driveway! Put a large container under the fitting to catch the oil! Oil is not kind to asaphalt.

Hi Gary, How have you been? Are you back in Arizona?
When it happens, everthing in the coach is shut down. I tried running the engine to give it more power, the jack would go down, but it would then kick the cb, and everything is gone, engine quits, etc., then everything resests. It seems the motor is bad. Can the motor be repaired or should I just replace it? Sky

Ray, I'd first check for a blockage on the discharge line, before replacing the motor.

It's odd that the engine would quit - there may be another gremlin at work here, as even overloaded, the current shouldn't drag the alternator enough to stall the engine.

So I think I'd be inclined to disconnect the pump motor wires and try jumping it from a good battery (be prepared to disconnect it quickly), because there may actually be a short in the circuit causing the engine to stall.

So far everyone has given you the same advice I would. I do not have levelers on my coach. I can however tell you how I would diagnose an inoperative lift gate based on your symptoms.

Hots and grounds are related. It takes the same amount of current on both the positive as the negative side of a circuit. That being said, let’s explore first why your coach would die out.

Anytime there is a loose connection there are extra amps being used for nothing but arc welding. I would first look at all heavy gauge wires including the grounding points.

Go out to your coach tonight and have someone operate the controls briefly (on, off, on, off) while you’re looking around. Do this with the lights off. If there's a loose or a corroded cable you should see a little bit of arcing. I've found many electrical gremlins at night by doing it this way. Not because I waited until nightfall to diagnose, only because it was night time.

No arcing, still tripping? Then your circuit breaker could be tripping from age (weak/worn) or the hydraulic pump is being loaded without displacing fluid. The advice about loosing up a line at the pump is a good one, it is however messy. The motor could be bad, the solenoid could be bad, the pump could be bad, or the cable could be loaded with green stuff.

I have found sometimes that the battery would drop down so low that the amps spike and trip a breaker. Lower voltage will cause higher amps. If you have an emergency start switch toggle this on and try to operate the levelers and see if that helps any. Based on your voltage readings I'm going to guess not.

Do not be tempted to bypass the circuit breaker. It's there for a reason. I've chased too many people who do this. Being a Barth owner, I'm already sure that you have enough brain cells to not be tempted.

Good luck and please keep us informed as to what you found.

it happened to me when we picked up the coach on Friday under the inverter on the engine compartment wall their are three round breakers the center one went, shut down everything.We had no power to start motor. It was a not resettable one. the one the teck ended with a 80 amp( I think) still circuit blew.
Went to 120amp no more trouble. couldn't read original breaker. reason not enough oil and motor over worked blew breaker..now we have a resettable breaker. hope the teck did wright wires not hot now jacks work.
lenny
ps just to get home arrived at 9am left shop 4:45 pm