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| Acess panels, upper storage bins, | Login now/Join our community |
I need to remove some of the panels in the rear of the upper storage lockers in the bedroom of my 89 Regency. I realize the buttons cover screws, but how do you remove the buttons to get to the screws? I'm trying to get access to the Backup camera (sony ssc 520 system) Second part. the back up camera was working well on Thursday during the PDI, but a faulty cell in the 24V house battery led to the dealer replacing it with two 12v interstates supposedly wired in series (actually parallel) so the output is 12v rather than 24v. I know the moniter is 12/24v compatible, but does it switch between those automatically or manually. third part. how do we remove the moniter from it housing on the dash to get to its input side for testing: fourth part. Whew! Peter | |||
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| 1st month member |
Usually, you can get a flat blade screwdriver or a small putty knife under the edge of the button to pop it off. 1999 Airstream Safari 25' 2007 Toyota Tundra 1987 Yamaha YSR toads | |||
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| The Old Man and No Barth |
Hmmmmm. The backup camera in my Regal SE is mounted on the rear of the roof. No need to do anything inside. Is the Regency camera built-in? Or what? My backup monitor is on the top of the dash. If your monitor is built-in, you'll probably find an access panel on top of the dash that will allow you to get inside for a look at what lies behind it. | |||
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I'm looking at a replacement camera that uses a sony conversion cable and supposedly attaches 6 feet from the camera itself. The cable on my current camera goes into the roof so the six foot connector should be inside behind the access panel in the upper storage lockers. My backup monitor is in a leather housing on top of the dash, but seems to be completely sealed. (Later) the monitor was simply held in place inside the housing by friction. | ||||
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| The Old Man and No Barth |
My backup cam./monitor is a Sony SSM-721 AMR black & white unit. The cam. cable snakes along the rooftop, then dives down into the refrigerator vent to reappear behind the grill, from whence it goes through the top of the dash to connect to the monitor. The black plastic cover on the monitor slips on, & is held in place by velcro on the flaps under the face of the monitor. The monitor itself is mounted on an ordinary "U" shaped bracket with a black knob on either side that allows it to swivel up & down. Mine has pooped out twice. Once the camera which was a direct replacememnt from Sony using the existing cables. Then the monitor went. I sent it off to be repaired by Sony. Total cost of both failures was nearly the cost of a new unit. If you can replace the bad components with similar items from the same mfr., you shouldn't need to worry about adding cables, or adapters. If you have to use an adapter, as it appears you now plan, 2 alternatives suggest themselves: first, coil up the 6' cable outside, & fasten it to the roof. Not neat, but less trouble than tearing your coach apart. Second, have a shorter cable made up that would lie neatly on the roof. The best alternative is still to buy the same model camera you have now, & plug it right in. | |||
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 4/08"5+ Years of Active Membership"  |
Peter, If your Regency is anything like my 92 Regency, you should have cabinets with bottom lift doors that open to the back wall. I have an access panel in the back where the camera is mounted and the cable enters through a small hole sealed with a rubber grommet. You should be able to get to the cable connection from there. I am not sure of tha actual routing of the cable, but if you can get to a connector at the back, you can check the cable for continuity with a multimeter. Regarding your batteries. If your originals were wired for 24 volts, why did the dealer install them in a 12 volt configuration? I would correct the battery situation before trying to fix any electrical or electronic items. Bill & Georgene Goodwin 92 (Feb.) Regency 36ft 300hp Cummins Gillig Chassis (1990 build date) 2014 Honda CRV toad 10Kw Power Tech Gen w/ Kubota diesel engine Can accomodate Barth visitor with advance notice  | |||
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My regency has the rear lift doors for the upper cabinets, but within the cabinets the back is another panel held in place with two screws. Naturally the critical panel behind infront of the camera has one stripped head, and I haven't yet had time to attack it properly. The 12v/24v situation involved the original single 24v battery having one dead cell, so the dealer did the best he could and replaced it with two 12v interstate deep cells, but wired them in parallel rather than in series. Simple fix which I will do shortly. On my backup camera set up the monitor supplies the power through the cable, and I wan't sure whether the 12v set up would affect the camera. I have removed the monitor, and there is no apparent 12/24v switch although it operates off either. I have no idea why the house battery was a 24v battery to start with. Peter | ||||
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| 4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Peter, I can see the chassis battery being 24 volt, as many diesels have 24volt starters. The house batteries should be 12 volt. Your back-up camera is, most likely, connected through the ignition switch, which puts it on the 24 volt circuit. Bill NY could explain how the conversion to 12 happens on this circuit. I wouldn't switch the battery wiring on your new batteries, as it is intended to be 24 volts. Go to work on the stripped screw in that back panel and get to the camera wiring. The first thing to check is if you are getting power to the camera through the cable to camera. Keep at it, you'll solve the problem. I am not as good of a mechanic as many on this site, but perseverence and the ocassional post get me through most projects. Bill G | |||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
One battery 24v? You did not have one 24v battery. Those are found in industrial items like electric forklifts. You more likely had a 12v 8d battery that is used in construction equipment - do not hook those interstate batteries up in a series - leave it parallel. If you did have a 24v system it would be for the starting circuit only - not the house batteries! Lets say, for the sake of the thread, that it is a 24v starter... Then your two 12 volt batteries in series would have a tap post that you take a 12v feed off of at the battery stud. You would need a 24v alternator in this scenario. It could even have a series/parallel switch to give you 24v only while cranking and 12 volts while running down the road. With that type of setup you would have a 12v alternator. The series/parallel is handled inside of that switch to allow 12v charging (parallel) and 24v cranking(series). 24v in the house circuit? I don't think so... Have someone check it out before you blow bulbs and 12v appliances or worse stuff happens. Bill N.Y. | |||
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I do not have the old single house battery, the only indication that it was a 24v rather than an 8d came from the dealer's staff--but they were also the ones who said that the interstates were wired in series when they infact were parallel Right now everything in the coach works properly except the backup camera which was working the day before they replaced the battery (ies). Could simply be a coincidence, I know the sony cameras are prone to failure in time. | ||||
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| "Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
I can't speak about the Sony cameras. I would think it's a coincidence. Are the batteries located in the back of the coach? If there using a relay off of the reverse lights to trip the camera circuit on and the batteries are mounted close to this maybe the wire broke off... I wouldn't condemn a camera or a monitor until you follow procedures to track it down. Try there website or customer service for a wiring diagram and/or troubleshooting tips. It would bite to replace a camera when the 12v reverse relay is in need of replacement. Did they try to hook it up as a 24v circuit before they realized what they were doing? Maybe it's not a coincidence but a reaction to an improper battery installation. Bill N.Y. | |||
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Bill NY: the 12/24 mystery has been solved. I talked to the installer, and the old house battery was indeed an 8d. She told the delivery rep that she replaced it with two interstate 24's which he took to mean 24v when she was refering to group size. She wired the two interstates in parallel to approximate the 8d's output, so all is well on that front. I haven't yet sorted out the camera, monitor and cable issue. The monitor lights up and is largely gray ,and when the coach is placed in reverse the screen flickers and occasionally flashes bright white as if its trying to do something. There are no controls or adjustmets except brightness, contrast and volume. The camera is fed by a four pin cable from the monitor and needs about 8 volts to operate. I'll try to check out the connections, voltage and continuity this weekend. I already have a complete new system to install, but I agree, its better to make sure what the problem is before giving up on the old one since it was working quite well just a week ago. According to the schematics with the coach no components were ever 24V. Peter | ||||
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by formertrekkie: Bill NY: the 12/24 mystery has been solved. I talked to the installer, and the old house battery was indeed an 8d. She told the delivery rep that she replaced it with two interstate 24's which he took to mean 24v when she was refering to group size. She wired the two interstates in parallel to approximate the 8d's output, so all is well on that front. I haven't yet sorted out the camera, monitor and cable issue. The monitor lights up and is largely gray ,and when the coach is placed in reverse the screen flickers and occasionally flashes bright white as if its trying to do something. There are no controls or adjustmets except brightness, contrast and volume. The camera is fed by a four pin cable from the monitor and needs about 8 volts to operate. I'll try to check out the connections, voltage and continuity this weekend. I already have a complete new system to install, but I agree, its better to make sure what the problem is before giving up on the old one since it was working quite well just a week ago. According to the schematics with the coach no components were ever 24V. The batteries are in the rear of the coach and are connected to the monitor through the normal acc. and back up light circuits (12V). Peter[ | ||||
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| "Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Glad that was figured out. So what were we talking about? Ready? I drew up this picture of series and parallel circuits. Used together and on there own.  Two 6 volt batteries in series will give you a 12v circuit. In this scenario your 6v batteries are now 12v. The amps stayed the same but the voltage doubled. Two 6v batteries in parallel will give you 6v and twice the amps. If you hook up two 12v batteries in series the amps will stay the same but you voltage will double to 24v. If you hook up two 12v batteries in parallel you will have 12v but twice the amps. Two 6v batteries in series will give you 12v and two more 6v batteries in series will give you 12v. Then you would hook both sets of two 6v series batteries (now 12v) into a parallel circuit to double your amps. Now what you have is four 6v batteries that will double the voltage and double the amps. It's not 6v X 4 batts but 6v X 2 = 12v + twice the amps or amps X 2 of one battery. Most coaches are wired this way. Four 12v batteries in parallel is 12v and 4 times the amps... Questions?
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