Has anyone tried using dry ice to keep the refrigerator cool while traveling? Ours doesn't work on gas for some reason, and running off the generator can only be done if our roof air is not being used. So, we're pretty much relegated to camp grounds while traveling since Walmart parking lots don't have hook ups and don't like folks who take advantage of their hospitality and run generators.
Jim

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Originally posted by Jim and Tere:
Has anyone tried using dry ice to keep the refrigerator cool while traveling?

Sure, used to do it all the time when we had low budge trailers.

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Ours doesn't work on gas for some reason
Jim

Does it have 12 volt capability?

Have you considered an inverter to let coach batts run the fridge on 120V while the alternator keeps them up? I haven't done that, but it seems worth looking into. Does your fridge manual give the AC current draw or wattage? For example, ours has a 5 amp fuse in the 120 volt circuit. That translates (loosely) to 600 watts power draw before the fuse blows. When overfusing and duty cycle is factored in, it could be do-able.

A clamp ammeter or a kill a watt would give you an accurate current draw for inverter buying. Or someone here could measure a similar model on theirs and report.

The load is resistive, so a MSW inverter would be fine.

Dry ice ain't cheap. Maybe freeze some water in a plastic jug? That way you can re-use it.

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Originally posted by Shadow man:
Dry ice ain't cheap.

Not easily found, either. We shop for our meat and chicken in out of the way places, and use it to bring it home in ice chests. The meat and the dry ice seem never to be in the same town.

The cost of dry ice should be balanced against the purchase of an inverter, which could be useful over a very long period of time.

You could also get a Coleman Powerchill thermoelectric cooler. They run off of 12volt and come with an inverter for 110Ac too. We use ours all the time and love it.

You'd have to transfer everything back and forth though. That's one con.

They're $88 on walmarts website, but $167 with the power supply on Coleman's. Go figure.

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Has anyone tried using dry ice to keep the refrigerator cool while traveling?

If you use dry ice, or even regular ice, put it in the freezer section and let it gravity feed to the fridge for better uniformity and longer duration. This is how your fridge works anyway. The cooling part is usually just in the freezer.

Seems to me, the cost of dry ice or inverters or portable coolers as a permanent solution is counter productive. Wouldn't it be cheaper in the long run to get the unit running on gas?
As a temporary solution I would say the frozen milk carton should work.

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Originally posted by TJ:
Seems to me, the cost of dry ice or inverters or portable coolers as a permanent solution is counter productive. Wouldn't it be cheaper in the long run to get the unit running on gas?

I would agree with that if the inverter were bought ONLY as a fridge solution. My rec was considering the thought that an inverter has many other handy uses, at least for boondockers or on-the-road users. Things like TVs, stereos, microwaves, toaster ovens, coffee makers, hair dryers, chargers, etc.

Certainly, getting the fridge working or replaced is the best way if time allows.

Simple solution. Get the refrigerator fixed. Cheapest and most effective.

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Dry ice ain't cheap. Maybe freeze some water in a plastic jug? That way you can re-use it.

Depends where you live / look. I get it for $5 for a large cooler full.
Plus its always fun to make a fog bank when you are done!

Just got the latest Camping World flyer. Thermo-electric soft coolers are on sale to members for $59.99, $66.66 for non-members.

Going to expand on my first post of Fix It.

Since the refer works on electricity it means the big expense of replacing the cooling unit is not needed.

On the cooling unit you have a boiler. this is heated with either ac or gas. Same boiler. So all you need to do is get the gas working.

First do you have a flame. If you do and it is not working, the chimney is probably plugged. To unplug it you need to get to the back of the chimney. There you will find a wire stuck in the tube. Run it up and down a few times, pull it out and lots of crud should fall out the bottom. I would advise putting a baggy over the burner if you do this.

If you don't have fire then it why not. Here I am going to assume you have spark generated or electronic controller. Need to have someone inside switch to gas and make sure you see a spark. No spark. Check that the spark rod is not bent and touching the burner. Needs a gap to start. You should also hear a soft click as the gas solenoid activates. At this time you can use a match and manually start it. If none of this works you probably need a new circuit board. Either a dinasor or OE will do.

Some older refers you have a knob that turns to gas and a phizo push starter. Once lite the fire stays on and goes to a lower setting when temps are reached. This style was still being used in the early 80s.

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Originally posted by Gary Carter:
Since the refer works on electricity it means the big expense of replacing the cooling unit is not needed.

I would agree... just fix it.

I've seen workarounds cost more than the actual repairs would have.