Developed exhaust leak and need to replace header gaskets on 1990 Barth with Ford 460 and banks headers. Would appreciate any input/recommendation on best gasket and header bolts to use. Only want to do this once.

http://www.cpperformance.com/p...anifold-gaskets.aspx
You can but FRP Bolts from Summit or Jegs. Just be sure you clean everything and use anti seize and torque them as described in a Ford 460 Manual.

I would either check with Banks or go with dead soft copper gaskets. Banks headers have a pretty thick plate, so shouldn't have leak problems. Follow their recommendations on torquing.

Have the same problem. I have an exhaust leak, and broken bolt on passengers side rear,but do not have headers. From ALL the research I have done,the 460 should not have any gaskets!! The only possibility is what Bill H.said and that is to use soft copper gaskets.I am going to replace the bolts with the Ford exhaust bolt kit and resurface the heads if necessary. I was considering doing the Banks exhaust but do not want to put out the cash at this time.I thought that the Banks headers were supposed to stop the exhaust leaks caused from overheating?

quote:

Originally posted by coaster48:
Have the same problem. I have an exhaust leak, and broken bolt on passengers side rear,but do not have headers. From ALL the research I have done,the 460 should not have any gaskets!!

I had an exhaust leak because of the same issue with broken bolts in the head on my 460 Ford. I wound up drilling out the old exhaust bolts. I replaced my manifold with "Banks" exhaust headers and am very happy with the results.

The old exhaust manifold never would have fit as it seems to have "shrunk" where the bolt holes should have lined up with the head.

Must have washed it in hot water

You'd think after all the years of experience with cast iron the car guys could make a manifold that would last!

GM used 3 different types of manifolds on the 454 and none were really stable, all had crack and leak problems. Headers seem the only final fix.

Apparently the longer the head/manifold, the more expansion, cracking and warping. I always thought they'd be better off with a split design with 2 short separate pieces. But what do I know....

(I think some of car guys did make cuts between ports to allow for expansion)

Good luck! Too bad they don't make nice double sided copper gaskets for those, like the "blow-out proof" ones they make for Lycoming aviation engines.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve VW:

Apparently the longer the head/manifold, the more expansion, cracking and warping. I always thought they'd be better off with a split design with 2 short separate pieces. But what do I know....

(I think some of car guys did make cuts between ports to allow for expansion)

The ultimate fix is slots and oversized holes in all but the center. I have the mating surface machined flat, and spot-face the area around each hole. I use Unbrako washers.GM has a lube that allows the metal to metal interface to move and conduct heat. I put it on the washers, too. Never had a broken stud after that.

Cooling down the engine before shutoff also helps. My electric fan runs until it detects lower temp in the upper hose.

Having said all that, I use Thorley headers for the torque. Their Tri Wye design is perfect for MH or heavy truck use.

quote:

Good luck! Too bad they don't make nice double sided copper gaskets for those, like the "blow-out proof" ones they make for Lycoming aviation engines.

MH engines operate in a situation that would drive Lycoming engineers to drink. My favorite airplane exhaust used to be the Comanche 260 set up.

I will check with Banks. I was not aware there is no gasket and presume I have a header bolt getting loose. I would like to go ahead an replace the bolts. Not sure how rusted (I expect badly) they are but would soaking with PB blaster for a few days be the way to go or is there another trick out there.
Thanks for the help.
Ray...

PS... Just bought new Air Bags for rear suspension from Jetco and will update with pics when finished.

quote:

Originally posted by Ray:
I will check with Banks. I was not aware there is no gasket

The Banks kits usually come with gaskets.

quote:

and presume I have a header bolt getting loose.

Often the result of improper torquing on installation. I like to cold torque, then hot torque twice, a hundred miles or so apart.

{quote] I would like to go ahead an replace the bolts. Not sure how rusted (I expect badly) they are but would soaking with PB blaster for a few days be the way to go or is there another trick out there.[/quote]

PB is good, and some swear by Kroil. Another trick is to heat the bolt with a torch, and let it cool completely. Resist the temptation to apply ice. The rapid cooling could loosen things, but is likely to make the bolt brittle.