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03/22 |
I had a leak, a very tiny leak, in the upper left corner of the radiator. I could not wait for a new one from Spartan so I had mine recored, they used a high flow core with wider tubes, still a five core radiator but with staggered tubes. To get the radiator out--well it was a real PITA! After draining, the fan had to be removed, the shroud unbolted from the radiator assembly, the radiator separated from the trans cooler and turbo intercooler (it was RTV'd together as an assembly) then the trans cooler and intercooler had to be supported while the lower radiator support frame (it is bolted to the frame rails) was lowered to allow the radiator to be tipped back and rotated slightly to be removed thru the SMALL rear radiator opening! In order to lower the radiator support, two stiffening pieces for the bumper had to be cut off, These were added by Barth and interfered with the repair process. Going slowly this took about 8 hours!!! This is what the interior of the radiator looked like after they removed the side tanks. I cleaned rust off most of the areas that I could get to while the radiator was being repaired and repainted with rust protector. I also repositioned the aircleaner as it was located down in the middle of the side opening and wasn't attached well to the side wall. I made brackets that attached the air cleaner to the top of the opening and positioned the air cleaner as high up and forward as I could but still get the element out. This really opened up the space and allows better access to the chassis batteries and I could even store the jumper cables on the back wall. When I removed the bumper, which was necessary to allow access to that stiffener that had to be cut out, I found that they had used 7/16 bumper bolts and the bumper has square openings for 1/2 inch bumper bolts, there were also spacers made out of thin pipe for the side bumper bolts that were badly distorted. Made new spacers out of 1 inch aluminum stock and then made new bolt in stiffeners out of 1/4 inch plate that not only attached to the radiator subframe but attached to the bumper brackets at the bumper bolt locations. What the bumper mount looks like without the stiffener. With the stiffener added. Assembly of the radiator back to the trans cooler and intercooler was also a pain, extreme care, the bolts are very short to prevent going thru the radiator rails and into the core, I found that with the new core, some of the bolts had to be shortened, if not, I would have had a BIG problem. I measured each hole depth and matched a bolt length to that location. Interesting facts: Draining the coolant out for the repair, I got 4 1/2 gallons out, after re-assemble I replaced the coolant and it took over 6 gallons, Hmmmm, Radiator repair people said the old core was over 50% blocked. Even with this reduced efficiency, in 100 degree ambient I never went over 210 degrees water temp! Replaced the thermostat with a Cummins part, What came out looked like a high flow race thermostat, the Cummins part looked VERY small for the job. Initial tests indicated that I need to change out the thermostat with a revised part, or go back to the one I took out, I am getting fluctuations in temperature readings which has been reported by other Cummins users and a upgrade replacement is available. will change it out and report back. Cost to re-core and all necessary bits and pieces: $1350.00 OUCH! price of copper ? Back to work on the cruise control!! Ed 94 30' Breakaway #3864 30-BS-6B side entry New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP Allison 6 speed Spartan chassis K9DVC Tankless water heater | ||
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12/12 |
...About $3.03/lb today for scrap....I guess that's why we read about folks gettin' fried climbing poles at 3am | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Wow! That's a lot of money for a recore. I have always gotten the impression from other MH owners that diesel parts had a surcharge added just because they were diesel. Perhaps it is just because there is a smaller market, but my MH friends howl whenever they have to pay for maintenance. As much as I wanted a diesel Barth, one of the attractions of a P30 is easy and economical maintenance and repair. My new engine cost less than one owners yearly service. I popped a nitroglycerine and had to sit down just to read the bill. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
The big deal out here at 3 AM is to steal catalytic convertors with a battery-operated Sawzall. I am thinking of rigging up a vibration sensor and wireless transmitter for my vehicles. Or getting a pit bull from the pound and putting his bed underneath the most tempting vehicle. . 84 30T PeeThirty-Something, 502 powered | |||
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03/22 |
I agree, I could have gotten a new one for $1200 from Spartan plus shipping, and it is the older design with the smaller tubes. I did check around and could have gotten it done cheaper in the Central Valley but then it would have cost either shipping or my time to drive to and from twice. My SOB P30 radiator cost $500 to recore some 4 years ago. It was a smaller radiator and had less miles on then this one. (P30 <70K miles, Barth >95K miles) Ed 94 30' Breakaway #3864 30-BS-6B side entry New Cummins 5.9L, 375+ HP Allison 6 speed Spartan chassis K9DVC Tankless water heater | |||
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"Host" of Barthmobile.com 1/19 |
Imagine what this would have cost if your labor was included? Wow! I agree with Bill H, that sounds kind of steep! I haven't priced out an RV radiator in quite some time. Maybe, that's what the're going for now... Ouch!!!
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