We got back from doing a street fair/flea market up in Vidalia, LA (just across the river from Natchez, Ms.) We got home Monday afternoon, got unloaded and plugged in the shore power. The next morning I went out and found a puddle of red fluid on the driveway right under the master cylinder. I wiped off the master cylinder and watched a small droplett form at the bottom of the master cylinder where it bolts on. The only thing is, it's not break fluid. It's red and smells like hydrolic fluie but I don't see anything above it that uses hydrolic fluid. I checked the reservoir and it was down below mininum so I put in more. Im' not sure what this reservoir is for but it was the only one that was low. It's the large center reservoir in the photo. We checked last night and again all day today and now there is no leak. I started the coach and turned the wheel to both limits several times and even pumped the breaks a number of time but nothing. The transmission if full and no leaks anywhere. What's going on?




Ron

quote:

Originally posted by Ron & Maggie:
It's the large center reservoir in the photo.

R

Is that your power steering reservoir? I'm not a Ford guy, but some power steering pumps also power the power brakes. Check in that direction or wait for Bill NY. He has lots of Ford knowledge.

Power steering reservoirs are generally metal and on the pump itself, although on motorhomes, many are remote from the pump for access.

In any event, I'd not put fluid in any reservoir unless I were absolutely certain what's appropriate.

I also don't know of any Fords where the power steering also powers the brakes (like the GM Hydroboost), but maybe Bill N Y would have some better knowledge.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
Check in that direction or wait for Bill NY.

That is the reservoir for the transmission parking brake booster and the power brake assist.

Mine looks almost like yours - there are two hydraulic pumps and two reservoirs. The one in the center does use transmission fluid but it does not control power steering.

The leak is most likely caused by a bad power boost assist on the back side of the brake master cylinder. I have not changed mine but it did leak when I first got it. Like yours, it stopped leaking. I have not had a leak there since the spring of 2003.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
He is our Ford guy here.

Warning - Rant to follow!!!

Just because it's FORD powered doesn't mean I'm a FORD guy. If I had my choice it would be a DIESEL.

I own a 72 Chevy Nova SS, a 2006 Chevy Suburban, a 2003 Chevy Avalanche - 2 of the 4 road service trucks are GM's and the other two are Freightliners.

Please, don't ever confuse me with a FORD guy!!!

10/28 edit: BTW, thanks for the edit on your post to now read: "He has lots of Ford knowledge." My wife saw that last night and busted out laughing. I don't know if she was laughing at your edit or me for being so vocal on the whole FORD thing. I'm going to go with you... it'll make me feel better. end edit

When FORD makes good on a warranty issue I have with them (1999 - F550) then I might give them another chance.



Just so we're straight here - I speak from experience - I've owned (past tense) three. 99-F550, 88-F350, 85-F350.

quote:

Originally posted by Bill N.Y.:
Just because it's FORD powered doesn't mean I'm a FORD guy.

Bill, I'm sorry I called you a Ford Guy. What I meant was that you are A Guy Who Knows About Fords.

I stand by what I meant to say.

quote:

Originally posted by bill h:
What I meant was that you are A Guy Who Knows About Fords.

I know what you meant!

If my friends ever heard that someone called me a FORD guy they would roll on the floor laughing.

For what I paid for my Barth, I can overlook it's only flaw!

Bill N.Y.

Thanks Bill N.Y. Like you, we're overlooking the Ford engine because of our love for the Barth. We got rid or our 1999 F-350 diesel dually. What a lemon. #3 and #5 injector went bad, leaked oil, and the high pressure reservoir leaked it's oil into the engine and when it got low enough I couldn't start the @&#%*@! thing. We traded it in on a 2004 Jeep unlimited for my wife. She's always wanted one and she loves it. We're going to take it back out to Colorado this spring for a couple of months and do some more Ghost Towning and prospecting. Well, I guess I'm just going to have to wait and see if it leaks. Bill N.Y., if it does leak again is it a big job to DIY or is it better to put it in the shop? My neighbor works for Orleans Dodge/Chrysler as a mechanic and said he'd help me. Your thoughts?? Thanks again to our Barth family for coming to our aid.

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by Ron & Maggie:
We got rid or our 1999 F-350 diesel dually. What a lemon. #3 and #5 injector went bad, leaked oil, and the high pressure reservoir leaked it's oil into the engine and when it got low enough I couldn't start the @&#%*@! thing.

Man! Wow, you had the same problems I had - An additional problem with another oil leak was the oil pan rotted out. 3 injectors for me. Junk!!!

quote:

Originally posted by Ron & Maggie:
...if it does leak again is it a big job to DIY or is it better to put it in the shop? My neighbor works for Orleans Dodge/Chrysler as a mechanic and said he'd help me. Your thoughts??

Is he a capable mechanic? If so, do it. If you do wind up replacing it please post part numbers and prices here to help another (me) person out in the future.

Bill N.Y.

After I finished restoration (make that "resurrection") of the '87 E350 LWB diesel (6.9L NA) that was a true Brother-in-Law special, it's run without problem for 6 years.

But then, it has the IH engine, not the Cummins-designed/Ford produced version....

My only other Ford was a '50 4 dr Custom, which I bought in '75 from the original owner...

I was never a Ford guy, but I had several A models in high school. One with a Riley head and super dooper intake and exhaust manifolds made by me. A pair of Chandler Groves 94 carbs. Full pressure oil, etc. An old guy in town taught me a whole lot on those cars.

Hi Bill N.Y.,

One more thing. What in the world is the E.U.L. light on my dash? It comes on when I first start the engine then goes out after it idles for a couple of minutes. Thanks again on the leak which is no longer there.

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by Ron & Maggie:
What in the world is the E.U.L. light on my dash?

I asked this same question when I got mine - EUL or E.U.L. means: Extended Useful Life.

What does it do? When my oxygen sensor went bad it came on and stayed on - mine goes on first thing when started until the exhaust goes thru it for a few seconds - I'm guessing it's just a glorified oxygen sensor idiot light.

When the light comes on after warming up it stays on for about 1 - 2 seconds and then goes off - I've noticed a very brief burp of black exhaust when this happens but then it clears up.

I'm not too worried about it - You'll see it come on again after pulling a hard hill and then start to coast down the other side. Step on the throttle and it goes away again. No black smoke when it happens like that.

Bill N.Y.

Just to keep this post updated for anyone else who may have an issue with their EUL or E.U.L. idiot light, I have another update for you. I had this question as one of my earliest posts.

I moved my Barth 2 weeks ago in anticipation for the upcoming Pocono Race this weekend and that idiot light came on again and stayed on.

Not really keen on diagnosing, I decided to change out my Oxygen Sensor because that's what it was the last time. As you can imagine, I wasted my money.

Breaking out an old diagnostic tool and literally blowing the dust off of it I plugged it in and found a code 31 with KOEO (Key On Engine Off) on my EEC IV Ford 460. This code is related to the Electrical part of the EGR System.

I checked out the voltage feed and had 5 volts which is what it is supposed to be. The ground on my OHMS meter showed good. The voltage coming out of it was out of range so I wound up replacing it.



The range for this electrical sensor is 0.80 volts closed and 4.00 volts when it is full open (metal rod pushed down) or under full vacuum if it is hooked up. That range is checked with the EGR Valve Position Sensor Plug attached to the sensor. The 5 volts and ground is checked with the sensor wire unplugged.



~ EGR Valve Position Sensor ~
Napa Part#: CRB 219023
Product Line: Echlin Fuel System

Because I was messing with the EGR I decided to do a vacuum test on the EGR Valve. The Vacuum would not hold so I replaced the EGR Valve too.



~ EGR Valve ~
Napa Part#: CRB 23184
Product Line: Echlin Fuel System

I am happy to report that the idiot light is now off and I hope that the test drive to Pocono and back is uneventful.

An update. My Barth never ran better than this trip. It appears that in addition to the snapped off oxygen sensor a few years back, the EGR Valve and EGR Sensor was going bad too.

I now have, lower engine coolant operating temps and the black smoke burp when cresting a hill no longer happens. A slight increase in power was an added bonus!!!