I am having the dim light problem and would like to know if others have changed out the old 2W bulbs for a better one. If so what did you install?
1993 Regency, Gillig Chassis

Hope you get a good answer, I have the same problem. I use to restore classic Chevrolets that had this problem. A lot of the time it was actually the rheostat on the light switch. Replace the switch and the problem was solved. I have not tried replacing the switch on the Barth.
Nick

I have an intermittent rheostat and also noted that many bulbs were short round bulbs that didn't go very far into the gauge. I replaced them with the same wattage (I think 3 W) but longer and it is MUCH brighter. I will get the bulb number tomorrow.

I haven't yet replace the headlight switch and still have to jiggle the rheostat sometimes to get full brightness.

I was going to look into LED replacement lamps but I am in the middle of completely re-laying out the dash so until that is finished, the old bulbs will stay!

Thanks: This all started with the dim lights then I noticed when I turned on the lights with the generator running the oil pressure indicator (Gen) would drop 20 pounds and the temp would rise about the same distance on the face. I suspected the grounds were reversed and the voltage across the gauges was being reduced by the drop across all the bulbs. After tearing apart both the dash and the console I could not find any bad grounds or crossed wires. I am thinking the bulbs are the problem as they are consuming more voltage than planned in the coach, maybe because of the number of accessories that were added by Barth (Step indicators, CB radio, that "Ultimate Horn", etc.). If anyone has had that occur I'd love to hear about it.
Tom

That probably would be another issue. Can't speak for your model, but on mine there are a couple of grounding places that i have found to be suspect. I follow all the green wires around and when I come across a junction (strip with many wires under screws) I take apart and clean. Some I take off the junction, clean and solder the bundle together.

I didn't have any gauge fluctuations but did have a VERY low output from my low beam headlights which I fixed adding a relay. That was a case of way to many junctions and connectors from the headlight circuit breaker to the headlamp.

Tom, I had the problem, and the headlight problem also, then finally when the coach was started, the air horns would blow. I finally traced things down to a bad ground on the firewall above the generator. The ground bus was loose, took everything apart and wirebrushed everything and then put electrical seal on it. I removed all the ground bus and cleaned them. This stopped all bleed thru and now got bright lights and also replaced the head light switch and redone the connections to the switch. The head light switch from mine was from a older chevrolet truck. Every thing works great now. The positive side has to make a complete circuit thru the aplliance back the ground to the battery. sky.

My favorite connection corrosion preventer is dielectric grease.

I have an update on my dash instrument lights being dim. In the relay compartment (below) there is a load resistor at the lower left with brown wires attached. when I measured the voltage at the instrument lights it read 6.8 v dc, about 1/2 what the 12 volt bulbs require. It appears Gillig may have used 6 volt bulbs in their bus chassis and Barth may not have known that. It can easily be solved by simply connecting the wires without the resistor in the circuit and voila! bright lights and full control using the headlight knob. This may be peculiar to mine, but if you have a Gillig Chassis Regency you might measure and see.

This may not be an issue, but it's a caution: My '87 Ford van has a mechanical 6V regulator in the dash - the instruments (oil, temp, fuel level) are 6V in a 12V system, although the lighting is 12V - it would be worthwhile to make sure your instruments aren't 6V, lest there be a burnout.

Tom had attached a photo of "HIS" electrical circuit panel to the post. I removed it and labeled it for better viewing. In the lower left hand corner is the "Step Down voltage Resistor Pack" that Tom is talking about. It looks like a standard "Chrysler Ignition Resistor" from the late 60's to early 70's.

I also took the liberty to identify several other key circuits. These are not the same in each coach.

Several of the part numbers are my preference. The part number for the 5 pole relay is 30-40amps and is heavier then the standard relay.

The 4 pole relay can usually be changed over to a 5 pole relay.

Thanks Bill, would you happen to know what purpose the yellow lights located halfway down each side of the coach serve? They do not come on with the clearance, running or turn signals. These are small, not the patio or work lights up near the roof line. They have small wedge bulbs and the bulbs look ok. For that matter, neither the Gillig Owners Manual nor the electrical schematics for the coach from Barth deal with exterior lighting or any harnesses that are chassis related.