Danny, what brand is that screened room off your awning? Can anyone recommend a brand that is tried and true? Or a free standing room to get out of the coach for a while and/or larger groups? Set up/take down time, cost, what to avoid? thanks in advance, jerry in atlanta

Jerry, it's an AE, like the awning. They call it a Patty-O Room. You buy the starter set which consists of the end panels and the "door", and the skirt for the bottom of the coach, then the front panels in 2,4,or 8 foot sections to obtain the length you want. You do have to drill small holes for the twist attachments of the end panels,and 5/16 holes for the end rails to go into the awning tube. The front panels slide into the groove in the awning tube, and the end panels slide onto a torsion rod that runs from the coach to the tube. All the panels, including the "door", then zip together. There are grommets in the bottoms for stakes, or you can use anything to weigh the bottoms down. I have a floor mat that is about a foot larger than the room, so everything stays pretty clean. There are roll up solid panels for all the screens for privacy or rain protection.
It took me a couple hours to set up and install the fasteners and tube holes etc. the first time. Once you know how to do it you should have it up in 10 minutes or so. The only thing a second person comes in handy for is sliding the larger front panels into the groove. I can "fire drill" it down in about 2 minutes, but that's not folding it to fit and putting it in the bag, that's just to get the awning down for a storm.
It was about 400 bucks for the room and another 80 for the floormat, and worth every penny as far as we're concerned.
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/index.cfm/Outsi...kunum=22860d:src=TSC

Danny, how does the skirt attach to your Barth?

One on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_RV-Trailer-Camper-Parts...ksid=p3756.m14.l1318
One more.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_RV-Trailer-Camper-Parts...ksid=p3756.m14.l1318

bill, I used a couple of the twist locks but figured it would be easier and less obtrusive to go with SS snaps to complete the installation.
The wheel cover is supposed to work with some cheap velcro stuff but it's mostly junk. I used a good silicone sealer for all the thru-hull fasteners, and haven't seen a bit of electro or rust damage after more than 2 years.
As I've said before, we think of this coach as a usable motorhome first, and a classic coach second, so doing a little drilling and sticking some things to it isn't a traumatic experience, as long as the alterations justify the alterations. I doubt most people would even notice the few extra snaps and twist connectors.

OK, thanks, Dan. I had sort of figured on using snaps, too, but just wondered if there was a better way to go. We already have snaps for the fridge area cover, and will soon have shade cloth on all the windows with snaps, so it will be Snap City.

We are not planning on a bug shelter, but need a wind skirt for colder times.

Snaps are easier to install, & easier to use, but if you're expecting something to withstand wind, twist locks on the corners are good insurance. Snaps, in my experience, can let go in strong winds.

Somewhere in between are "lift-the-dot" fasteners, but they require a stud that sticks out about 3/8/." If you have a cover that requires a little muscle to stretch into place, the "lift-the-dot" fasteners are marginally easier to connect than either snaps or twist locks, and they hold better than snaps.

Been there, done that on several boats & RVs with varying amounts of canvas or vinyl covers.

olroy, I don't know what you mean by "lift the dot" fasteners. My external window shades are all fastened with snaps and they've made it through some pretty formidable hurricanes without any coming loose. They do fit tight to the coach with very little slop to get flappin', and I have taken them off when I thought we were going to get a direct hit, as they provide no contact protection anyway.

quote:

Originally posted by Danny Z:
I don't know what you mean by "lift the dot" fasteners.

They are the fasteners that held the Army and USMC canteen covers closed, for example. They have a stud that sticks up through the top part when closed. The top part has "lift the dot" stamped on it.

Its main virtue is that it is directional, meaning it can only be opened if one sector of the top part is lifted. That sector is indicated by the dot.

Another type of directional fastener, is called "Pull the dot". It looks like a regular Durable Dot fastener, but can only be opened by lifting the material at the right sector. There is no dot to indicate that sector, however. I like them because they are easy to install and have a better look than the Lift the Dot or the turn button ones, but hold way better than the Durable Dot fasteners. As Roy said, the corners need the most help, so that is where I use them.

I need pictures.
http://canvasdealer.com/snaps.aspx