I am new to Barth Motorhomes, and require any knowledge on what to look for when buying an older Barth. I am looking for an older 70's model to restore. My main concerns would be the floor and structural issues.

quote:

Originally posted by next:
I am new to Barth Motorhomes, and require any knowledge on what to look for when buying an older Barth. I am looking for an older 70's model to restore. My main concerns would be the floor and structural issues.

i think you may have just missed a good buy on ebay a 71 29 ft BARTH from ft worth area just sold last week for $2,999.00 it is the 2nd time it sold the first buyer did not pick it up they i was going to go look at but did not get to go. i wanted to look at it because i have a 71 24 ft BARTH i have the phone number if you want i will call and see if it was picked this time.

KEITH WHITE
RETIRED U.S.ARMY
71 24'L P-30 350 PLUS


my new license plate

[This message has been edited by keithwhite (edited September 27, 2004).]

Keith,I Would like the unit to have the rear bed configuation. I looked at the one on ebay, and it had the center twins. There is a '73 in Minnesota that has the rear bed configuation and may go up there next week.Is there any structural floor issues that I need to know about? What materials is the floor/ belly made of? I have a call in on the one in California listed on this site, no answer back on configuation. Do you know of any others? Is there a Barth club in Texas?
Thank You,
Dennis


[This message has been edited by next (edited September 27, 2004).]

I cut a hole in the floor of my '90 Regal SE, trying unsuccessfully to access the fuel filler hose. I found 5/8" plywood flooring on top of closely-spaced 2" square aluminum tube joists, with fiberglass batting in between, and a full metal belly pan underneath.

I'd be surprised if any Barth had rot or other problems in the floor, unless it had been totally neglected for a long time.

Barths are framed and skinned with aluminum, and there's nothing structural to rot.

There are one or more posts on this site that picture the Barth construction. Try the search box in the top row above the posted messages..

I had rot under my water tank. Appeared to be from a small leak at the gravity fill hose. Undetectable until the tank was removed for remodeling.

Is the metal belly pan aluminum as well? Are all year models constructed in the same way through the 70's? Thanks for the info, Dennis

Can't say for sure on the belly pan material. I went through it with a saber saw, bent it up for access to the chassis, bent it back down when I found structural components in the way of where I needed to go, fabricated an aluminum flange to seal the perimeter, gooped it heavily on the theory that more is better when using sealants in places you're never likely to go again, pop riveted it back together, stuffed the f.g. back in, made a plywood flange to brace the perimeter of the floor cutout , glued and screwed that back together, gooped the seam, and reinstalled the floor covering.

At last, I had to cut the bottom out of the black water holding tank compartment, and drop the holding tank to replace the offending fuel filler hose, then stuff it all back together again - a helluva lot easier to say than it was to do.

The bottom of that compartment was aluminum sheet, but I replaced it with a piece of steel flashing material, courtesy my home builder son-in-law.

Not a perfect job of restoration, but better than the $1000 job the previous owner had done professionally to replace the gray water tank on the other side. That compartment now has a piece of frayed o.s.b. for a bottom, not a piece of metal

All of the original belly pan material was heavily undercoated.

Hmmm. sounds like olroy had his hands full.
Seams like barth selaed up the underbelly pretty well from the elements. I guess as long as the motorhome is not leaking inside then the flooring supports and structure should be good. I plan on putting in a hard wood pergo type floor material, any ideas on that?

When I said I reinstalled the floor covering, I should have said I replaced it with a"Pergo" type laminate in a tile pattern. I thought about using ceramic tile which would have been easier than cutting and fitting the laminate, but I didn't want the weight penalty of heavy cement backer-board, plus the weight of the tile.

The laminate worked fine, though cutting and fitting around the toilet and some of the edges was a bit of a pain. To use it in a bathroom, they instruct you in how to seal it carefully. I'm sure the same would apply in the galley area.

I recently saw an ad from Home Depot for prefinished wood parquet squares for a lot less than the cost of any of their laminates or pre-cut hardwods. I think they would make a beautiful floor, and the 12" squares would be easier to cut and fit, than the larger laminate panels.

My galley came with hardwood flooring that badly needs refinishing, but that's a project for next year.

I still have carpet in the bedroom, living room, and cockpit area. It's in good shape and I'll have it cleaned before we head South, then decide whether to replace it next year.

Thanks for all the info appreciate the help.

quote:

Originally posted by next:
Thanks for all the info appreciate the help.

I have what I call a 75, 23' trunk model Barth whcih has a rear bed (or horseshow dinette) configuration. I have been preparing myself to part with it and move into a larger Barth (grankids now). Its in pretty good shape and I wouldn't hesitate to drive it anywhere. If it would be of interest to you maybe we could talk. Bill