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 4/11 |
I have been having problems with the Dash Aircon. It seems that it works well until it gets too hot outside, over 90 or 95. It has been checked, refiled, pressure tested and it seems that when the aircon stops the pressure is too high and the limit switch shuts the compressor off. The last suggestion was to change the cooling fan on the condenser. The condenser is located on the rear of the coach, facing the rear with a pusher fan blowing air thru it. The air comes from the engine compartment which is already hot coming off the engine. I was told that the fan I have was not very strong. This year I was going to change the fan to a double fan, I have enough room to do that and see what happens. But, I have been thinking, yes dangerous, that the hoses route under the coach and on the same side as the engine radiator, side radiator. I think I may have enough room to put the condenser on the outside of the engine radiator and use the pusher fan to blow air thru the condenser onto the engine radiator. That would eliminate the "trying to cool with hot air problem". Now the unit works really well at 70 to 80 or up to 90ish.... but in the heat of the desert the condenser just does not cut it. Comments? Tom Loughney Barthless.... | ||
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1/12 |
Tom I cant help I have a similar problem with my dash air. Mine will work for a short time and then lock up and break the belt. The compressor is ok and turn freely. I'm suspecting dryer, moister in system. Any air conditioner experts out there? 1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever 1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center | |||
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FKA: noble97monarch 3/12 |
Tom, I did exactly this modification on my 97 Monarch, which is probably identical to yours. It was a pretty detailed job as the air intake box needs to be modified/removed. The net result was......drum roll please.......absolutely no gain!!!  It may even be documented on here, can't recall, but Tonka now owns it. My belief is that the dash air was horribly under-designed, a big mistake by Barth. They used ACME aftermarket air and it probably was designed for a car, not 1700sqft of RV interior. Even when the air worked, every corner you take whisks the cool off to some other part of the coach. Air act like liquid in a glass, turn the glass and the liquid tries to remain in its original axis'. In other words, the AC system must be designed to cool the entire space or it's doomed. It can be done, my Wanderlodge AC actually works and it needs to cool a much bigger space. One thing that can be done it to attempt to close off the passenger cavity from the rear. This keeps the cool air from escaping. My fix was to simply run the roof air off the generator.  Formerly: 1997 Barth Monarch Now: 2000 BlueBird Wanderlodge 43' LXi Millennium Edition DD Series 60 500HP 3 stage Jake, Overbuilt bike lift with R1200GS BMW, followed by 2011 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, “I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” | |||
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Glassnose Aficionado 2/09 |
I had a similar problemm with the T-Bird. When it got hot out the air would quit, with a "dead air" odor for a minute or 2, and the air coming out of the vents would be warm. Finally figured it out to be the high-pressure switch. That was 14 years or so ago and it's never failed again. 79 Barth Classic | |||
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| 2/16 Captain Doom  |
Mine also has the condenser on the side, but with puller fans. Dash air worked pretty well, onc the 4th compressor was installed... Rusty  "StaRV II"'94 28' Breakaway: MilSpec AMG 6.5L TD 230HP Nelson and Chester, not-spoiled Golden Retrievers Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think we're not. In either case the idea is quite staggering. - Arthur C. Clarke It was a woman who drove me to drink, and I've been searching thirty years to find her and thank her - W. C. Fields | |||
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7/13 |
Hi Everyone, The RV dealer put a new AC pump on Tonka just before we bought her. It was working when we inspected it but locked up and spit a belt on the way home. We didn't fix the dash AC last year but relied on the two roof air units, gen and two windshield fans. That worked great but we haven't been in high huidity and high temp conditions yet. I'm guessing a good working dash AC might help the drive and passender a little with the direct solar heat gain through the windshield but there is alot of other heat gain and a big volume to cool. We just got Tonka out of her winter den and are going to go with just the roof air this summer.  Thanks, Wally | |||
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| 4/11 |
Thanks, I won't move the condenser, but may try a stronger fan. The last guy checked unit just as it quit cooling and found high pressure I think 260 or so, in the system which he said shut the unit down. If I wait 1 hour or so the unit will start to cool again, but then quit. Yes the cool air does roll about in the big box. I have been using the roof air in the front, it works ok but difficult to cool my legs due to windshield gain. The first part of this trip will be fine, thru the heartlands in may/june north central in june/july but could be Aug for south east/florida. I should only drive at night.... Tom Tom Loughney Barthless.... | |||
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3/11 |
The dash air actually has two evaporators and fans, one in the dash and the other near the bedroom. You may have a switch on your dash that says Aux Heat. It is a low -high switch which controls the back unit. When you turn on the dash a/c freon also runs through the back unit. If you do not have the switch on it will freeze and your unit will have high pressure. I leave the fan on high when traveling, whether or not anyone is back there. You might try that first. The Acme air is about 10,000 btu and should be cold enough to keep you comfortable. However, I replaced the whole thing four years ago just to make it work right. 1993 32' Regency Wide Body, 4 speed Allison Trans, Front Entry door, Diamond Plate aluminum roof & 1981 Euro 22' w Chevy 350 engine and TH 400 tranny | |||
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I recommend looking into a remote air cooled condenser on the roof your refrige guy and you will have to figure out best route,this could work for heat pump also, one extra pipe with reversing valve,yes wiring too.Wally re(tired)refrige tech.Just realized attached to roof ladder should work (zap straps)also insulate hot gas line and suction on heat pump, | ||||
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| 4/11 |
Thanks for the input. Tom K mentions a Aux heat switch for the rear condenser, I will need to look next week. Wally mentioned an air cooled unit on the roof. Well shiver me timbers, a larger condenser mounted anywhere could work. I never thought about putting a bigger exchanger on the rig. Thanks guys. Tom Loughney Barthless.... | |||
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Hello . By remote i mean a remote condesor like the kind they use on deli vans.One leaves the compressor base where it is.You have to pipe it remotely.Your tech will know.I am sure you will find a more discrete place then zaping the pipes to the ladder.We dont want to massacare a Barth.One could neatly fasten an allumiumconduit and run the pipes and wires within Add on to my previous comment.Wwwally Vancouver island.(compressor and base components where it is deli type remote condensor goes is piped on roof,Keep cool guys. | ||||
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Reply from Wally Vancouver Island Bc-I am a certified refrigeration tech(united pipefitters union)yes,we paid union dues to the states.No.1 make sure condensor is clean.Get a good flexible flashlight and a flexible mirror.Look through.If you dont see light you have a plugged condensor.Clean with Caution not to bend the soft aluminium Fins.1-With firm soft brush (not wire)go up and down with the grain of the fins.2-If not succsesfull Google how to clean an automobile condensor.3 Very important-gently clean fan blade,efficiency is greatly hampered with a scummed up edge.Try this important step no 1.Contact me for step no 2. | ||||
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| 1/12 |
Hello brother Wally I'm a sprinkler fitter, local 669. Thanks for the reply. I will look at the condenser when I have more time. 1978 Barth 17' Cabin Fever 1997 Barth 23' 4 door Command Center | |||
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the 1975 barth from the wrecking yard that I am tearing into has in Dash A/C . Let me know if ya want any parts from it. | ||||
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