I have a Norcold 3-way; while reefers use little LPG when on gas, I prefer to have the propane shut off at the tank when underway. An advantage of the Norcolds is that they seem to be less sensitive to being level than Dometics.

Thanks everybody foryour valuable advice. It will come in handy when I meet Monday with the mechanic.

My meeting with the RV mechanic today went like this:
1. Hot water heater had frozen and split open. New one is on the way. It's a three-way, with heat from the engine, LP and 120 VAC.
2. Dometic three-way refrigerator cooling unit leaked and circuit board had fried. A rebuilt cooling unit and a new circuit board are on the way. That allowed me to keep the cabinet, which is just fine, and the ice maker, which also is just fine. If I had replaced the entire refrigerator, it would have been impossible to have fit the space, requiring lots of cabinet work. Also, I would no longer have had a three-way. And, I'm trying to restore the coach to original condition, not doing a lot of patchwork modifications.
3. Rear DuoTherm A/C unit had more problems than the Greece economy, some of which was due to mice. New unit is on the way. Will switch the resistance heater coil over and save the control circuit board and the coil in case it is needed from the front unit. I considered a heat pump but was advised that would just duplicate the rear furnace, which is just fine.
4. Bath ceiling fan (Fantastic) cover was cracked and was in overall terrible shape. Water had leaked into the bath ceiling. Replacing the fan with a plain Jane unit (hand crank lid and no lid sensor). Replacing the bath ceiling and possibly the vanity light fixture.
5. Water pump replacement on the way.
6. Toilet water valve replacement on the way.
7. City water check valve replacement on the way.
8. Autofill water valve. Jury is still out. Replacement cost was exorbitant. Looking for a reasonable cost replacement so the autofill switch over the doorway still will control filling of the water tank.
9. Passageway skylight was cracking around the flange and screw holes. New skylight on the way.
10. Kitchen and shower faucets -- new one's on the way. I could repair, but then I could repair again and again.
11. Remounting the motor mounts for the main passageway exhaust fan. Aluminum cover and no problem with leaks. Could have replaced with one that slices and dices, but I've hit the limit.

This shop was high on parts prices but I showed them the Camping World sale ads on the Internet and saved a few hundred dollars.

The major issues were due to my father apparently not winterizing just before he became ill years ago. The coach set outside, where UV worked on the fan cover, skylight and tires (I already replaced the tires). Mice did a lot of damage.

Maybe the amazing thing is that there were so few chassis issues. The Onan genset works well. From now on it gets regular exercise. With only 25k miles, the interior is in great shape.

This leaves me with the television question. I have two analog 12 VDC Sony TVs. I'm thinking of replacing them with 12 VDC LCDs on swing-out mounting arms. And I am thinking of a Winegard dome automatic portable HD 12 VDC satellite antenna. I've been told that if I use a portable, I can plug it into the exterior coax TV port and it will feed the TVs. I could use my DISH receiver from my house or buy an additional one. The portables weigh 6 pounds and Camping World has them on sale for $700. What about that sort of video rig? Any suggestions?

I'm probably making some mistakes here. I might have replaced the entire refrig if it had not been the problem with having to modify the surrounding cabinetry and the fact that the existing refrig cabinet is in great shape. It will cost a little less to replace the cooling unit and circuit board, but not a whole lot less.

This won't be an inexpensive deal, but there was no maintenance for more than 15 years, so looking at it that way is not too bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Steve Castner:
9. Passageway skylight was cracking around the flange and screw holes. New skylight on the way.

I need to replace my skylight covers also. What size are yours and where did you find replacements?

Thanks,

Nick

With the price on LED TVs so low recently, I'd go with 120VAC versions and inverters.

I have a swingout bracket on my TV, but it's mounted so it rests in a tray when retracted. That way, the bracket isn't getting beat up while traveling.

I'm with Rusty on the 110V LCDs. I got to looking around at the different TVs at Best Buy and was surprised to see some of them are actually powered with a 110V converter to (you guessed it) 12V! Just the same, I'd leave it be and use the inverter, but it would be weird that you are converting, then inverting, then converting

As far as the swing out brackets, I mounted mine on permanent, (yet removable) brackets. I guess it just matters on whether you have a good permanent spot that's viewable, but it's an advantage to have them in a fixed position if you're worried about them vibrating out.

The split in your water heater, did you consider just welding it? I had a burst one in a Jayco popup that we bought that way. Had it heli-arced and was good as new.

Add to things that I learned today: One of the two water compartment heaters is a blower that pulls air from the floor of the cabin across a heat exchanger that is warmed by the drive engine coolant. I had thought that it simply pulled warm air from the cabin. The switch is a toggle above and to the left of the driver's seat. The second water compartment heater is the propeller resistance 120 VAC heater that is on a 44F thermostat switch. Between the two systems, they keep the water compartment warm while under way and while docked or on generator power. The water tank itself has a 120 VAC electric blanket but I am not aware of any way to warm the water tank while under way. It would be interesting to put the water compartment to a test to learn the lowest ambient temperature it can survive. Nah. It would probably survive 20F but not 0F.

Steve, if you are talking about the Winegard 1518, I bouht mine at Adventure RV. They are $590 there now. sky

Wingard

Steve I think you need to plan on coming to the GTG at the Elkhart Indiana Fair grounds this coming spring,Rusty, Nick, Bill and other will be glad to look over your Barth. You can travel to the salvage yards and overstock warehouses in the area to do your Barth up right for the right price. The food will be great, the stories many, the BARTH employees are helpful, the owners are great people. Soooo sign up ,the only cost is for your campimg spot, no fees ever. We would all like to see your progress and help you to have a great Barth. All who travel are not lost. JKB

quote:

Originally posted by Moonbeam-Express:
I'm with Rusty on the 110V LCDs. I got to looking around at the different TVs at Best Buy and was surprised to see some of them are actually powered with a 110V converter to (you guessed it) 12V! Just the same, I'd leave it be and use the inverter, but it would be weird that you are converting, then inverting, then converting

As far as the swing out brackets, I mounted mine on permanent, (yet removable) brackets. I guess it just matters on whether you have a good permanent spot that's viewable, but it's an advantage to have them in a fixed position if you're worried about them vibrating out.

The split in your water heater, did you consider just welding it? I had a burst one in a Jayco popup that we bought that way. Had it heli-arced and was good as new.

Would it be difficult to simply operate the TVs at Best Buy off of 12 VDC? My existing TVs are 12 volt. My problem with inverter is that i have no deep cycle battery bank, only the starter battery fog the Oman tenser doing dual duty as house battery. I would need a bank of deep cycles. Could i use them as the Oonan starter?

quote:

Originally posted by Rusty:
With the price on LED TVs so low recently, I'd go with 120VAC versions and inverters.

I have a swingout bracket on my TV, but it's mounted so it rests in a tray when retracted. That way, the bracket isn't getting beat up while traveling.

Good idea for stabilizzing the TV.

quote:

Would it be difficult to simply operate the TVs at Best Buy off of 12 VDC?

The simple answer is no, you would need to fashion a plug. Then again, there may be filters or other electronic conditioning done in the converter.

Wouldn't this RCA RCA 12 Volt LED TV DVD Combo 18.5" with digital tuner work just fine:

http://www.roadtrucker.com/12-...ed-tv-dvd-player.htm

It has "UL Approved AC 100V-240V 50/60Hz adapter for home use and 12 Volt DC adapter for car."

The size should fit in the cabinets where my old 12 VDC analog Sonys presently are housed. I could just plug them into the existing 12 VDC outlets.

There is a huge selection of 12 VDC LCDs here: http://www.12volt-travel.com/1...levisions-c-684.html

Why would I want a 120 VAC unit if these are built to handle the vibration of travel?

Steve,

It should work just fine.

Don't think that you can just cut off the converter and run off of straight 12 volt. You will be taking your tv to the repair shop. Been there, done that.