Jim, guess what, there is an access panel on top of the dash, they did such a nice job on it, thought it was a decoration!!! Pried it off there is the fuse panel we have been talking about and another pack of glass fuses right in plain sight!!! Thank you so much!!!

Went for another little 15 minute drive, the longest since the Barth has been in Iowa, without incident!!!! Gonna wait for my neighbor to get back from Wisconsin and have him follow me out on the highway for a few miles, see how it does under speed and sustained load. Still a bit afraid!!! No gas level gauge, but all the other gauges work, except the dash tack.

There is a bit of whine, at intown speed say 30-40 MPH think it may be the alternator or power steering pump, but hope its neither! Alternator belt is loose, a bit of squeal from the serpentine belt, have not disconnected from the AIR pump yet.

The addition of those coil over front shocks, did make a handling difference, the front air springs arrived so have a bit of work to do that should really make it even better. One of the rear shocks is damaged, probably should replace them also.

Need to figure out the fuel gauge problem, do not want to drop that ******* fuel tank again!! Although it will be 500% easier than last time. After a bit more testing if there was a working fuel gauge, could hit the road, Michigan is getting closer!! This is of course my own fault, should have tested it before putting it in the tank!

88 Probably needs an oil change, new spark plugs and a timing adjustment too.

Like I said. Fill it up. Drive it. Repeat.
Fill it up again.... life is good.

Steve, Joe told me that when he used to drive the coach it would act up after 100/200 miles then be ok again for the same. Pretty sure, it was either the Rochester or inline fuel filters or both causing the problem, if it gets by that milestone, we can drink beer!!

Try this for belts:

OEM 86-89 Water pump to Air pump to Gen: GM#14087540

Remove pump, use the 1990 Water pump to Gen: GM#10223912 (Dayco #5060555)

Thanks Steve, if my butt is not to tired or hot, Jack up the front, put it on stands, remove the passenger side wheel. Blast into removing that AIR pump, carbon canister, and a vacuum tank for same. All in the bin except the vacuum tank, same as the one for the chassis, good spare. All the while worrying about that fuel gauge!!!

Oh yeah a trip to the auto store or Farm and Fleet for a new belt and maybe a spare if it fits.

This is a better coach than Nose. Drives really well, sure when the new air springs and rear shocks are installed it will handle great!!!

Still need to check out the LP system, furnace, water heater and fresh water system.

Fuel gauges all work about the same. The sensor is a float attached to a variable resistor. One end of the resistor is attached to ground. The fuel sense wire is attached to a slider on the resistor and changes resistance depending on position of the float. The sense wire runs forward to the fuel gauge.

The gauge itself is a meter that reads current. When you turn on the key one terminal on the gauge is supplied with 12V. The other terminal is connected to the sense wire from the tank.

If the tank float is low, sensor resistance is very high. Very little current flows from the gauge through the sensor to ground. The gauge stays at empty.

If the tank float is high, sensor resistance is low. More current flows from the gauge through the sensor to ground and the gauge shows full tank.

In the case of the digital gauge the gauge has internal circuits to measure the sensor current, an an analog to digital interface to display the numbers.

As for troubleshooting:

Be sure the tank has a good direct ground wire to the fuel sensor area. Do not rely on supports, vents or filler pipe for ground.

Be sure the sensor wire has a good connection at the tank and is intact all the way to the gauge.

Be sure the gauge is getting power when the key is on.

If you disconnect the sense wire the gauge should read empty. If you ground the sense wire the gauge should show full.

If your digital gauge won't work you can always install a generic gauge somewhere on the panel.

Thanks for the lesson Steve. Pretty convinced the float is jammed against one of the baffles, Gonna do the ground and no ground test you mentioned. If it pans out "ok" Lower that ******* Tank!!! However not today do some other stuff before lowering that thing!! Information, from a Chevy forum indicates almost all fuel sending units from Chevy are 0 to 90 ohms, did check that before installing the sending unit.

The Chevy folks really outdid themselves on this AIR pump. The only way it is coming out is to disassemble a cross member, remove the fan shroud, hope there is adequate room to put a wheel puller on the pulley, then maybe access to the 2 bolts, pretty sure Chevy did not want to make them easy to remove. There is not even room to fit a grinder to cut the bolts.

Craig, the pully would interfere with a bi- pass belt!!

After removing all the other stuff, cussing Chevy, and because it was jacked up on stands, seemed like a good time to put the new air springs in. These springs are bit smaller in diameter than the ones that went in Nose the coil springs seem to be made from thicker stock. Same procedure to install, pull a vacuum, wrap them in 3 hose clamps, squash until the the bundle will fit through the control arm opening. Have a good time trying to keep the upper end protector in-place. No way to get the bottom protector where it belongs, cut it and screw it in from the bottom control arm hole.

Air Springs says it should take about an hour to do the install, can't even get a workable bundle size in hour, funny people.

Mosquitoes are really bad, had to quit after one side. Tomorrow the other side , road test and then the *******fuel tank.

Front air springs installed and functioning Sir!! Checked the back ones, filled them with air about a month ago and they held air, so now back to an air ride all around.

Put 88 back on the ground, tomorrow reattach the dash panel and heater control. If things go well check out the fresh water system, LP system and hot water heater. When the neighbor gets off work, go for a high way test ride, need someone home to tow me home if a mishap. Pretty sure all is ok but may as well have a back up plan.


Later this week check the fuel gauge, if needed drop that ******* fuel tank and check the sending unit. Change the oil and filter, check coolant, and transmission fluid. Bleed the back brakes.

Soon do a little exterior clean up and polish the bumpers a bit.


That would make 88 road worthy and ready for Michigan.

Still a few things that make 88 high class, but can wait. they are, cruise control, a new roof ladder, fix the windshield washer.

Will try to attach a few pictures, will remove the in a few days they are not through PB do you think these air springs will hold pressure!!

this is the fuel sending unit, note the disintigrated black fuel line and all the rust, similar to what was in the tank

Fuel tank, big hog!! not compared to a diesel tank though!

quote:

Soon do a little exterior clean up and polish the bumpers a bit.

The bumpers on your 88 are chromed not anodize like the nose. You may be wasting time trying to polish newer bumpers. My buddy tried to get his re-chromed and could not find anyone with tank big enough. He ended up getting his powered coated. looks great.

Well tried to check the fresh water system today after putting the dash back together. Was hoping at least one system would be sound on 88, not to be! Hot water heater leaks somewhere, kitchen sink water lines leak under the sink. Joe said he had that facet replaced, bet it froze and cracked some lines, no drains or winterizing access. There does not seem to be a separate fill for the fresh water tank, how does one fill it?? Found 3 drains under the bed near the tank but there is another one! Not able to check the pump yet. This situation is going to add more time, that is dwindling fast. The fresh water drains, exit on top of the fuel tank, not happy about that either.

Mosquitos are out in force again had to quit, even though most work is in the coach.

Took a closer look at the fuel sending float, might be that it is so high in the tank, that it has yet to sense any gas, got to do the gauge check, even though it did work. Then determine; put more gas in the tank to verify this possibility. If the tank needs to be dropped more gas makes it a harder job. Maybe just pull the tank and adjust the float and confirm it is not hitting a baffle if the test shows all good. Did the math and with the fuel in the tank it is about 3.5 inches full, that may not be high enough to affect the float.

Change the hangers to strain gauges, wire up to your dash, calibrate and go.