A little over a year ago, there was forum discussion here regarding the availability of the Barth logo plates that were usually mounted via pop rivets on the front & rear of the coaches. I was unable to locate a source for new OEM pieces, and the few deteriorated ones that I collected from various salvage yards required a full-bore restoration involving stripping the old plating, grinding down pimples, silver-soldering pits, re-plating with copper/nickel/chrome, polishing & buffing - ‘bout $100-$150 each……Ouch!

As a diversion from performing any worthwhile & meaningful work, I’ve played around with coming up with a true & faithful reproduction of the original Barth logo plate……

At our shop, we played with various types of molding, casting, stamping, etc. (With $7-10k tooling costs, die-casting was out of the question) We finally hit on scanning an OEM piece and using that to control a CNC plasma cutting machine, experimenting with mild steel, stainless, brass, aluminum, etc. Try as I might, I couldn’t get the consistent results that I thought would be up to Barth quality …..The process worked, but my less-than-stellar skill level didn’t…..

The BAD news: I was unsuccessful in producing a high quality product…..The GOOD news: I found someone who could!

I packed off our data, specs & samples to a shop in Texas and they have produced what I think is a high quality reproduction of the Barth logo plate and a deserving replacement for an OEM piece that may be worn out by the ravages of time and exposure………A few notes about the reproduction:

The repro piece is dimensionally on a 1:1 scale with the OEM (except thickness)

The OEM logo (.125” thick) was cast & chrome plated……The repro is .250” thick polished aluminum plate (without mounting holes) because:

1. Easy to work with & cut, polishes & buffs out to a near-chrome luster, and eliminates any galvanic reaction when mounted (the drip stain you may have under your logos).

2. The edge-cut is very smooth & finished looking (one of the harder parts of the job)

3. Polished aluminum eliminates plating (ie: high costs), approximates the same luster as chrome and can be maintained by an annual wipe-down with Mothers or other alum. polish.

4. No holes - While we were 98% confident that all mounting holes in the OEM pieces were identical, we weren’t totally sure. Use your old logo for hole pattern if you want. Since it’s not plated, holes are not a problem (counter-sink to match your screw or rivet heads for a flush look, etc) Better yet, use 3-M PL5200 for a permanent mount…..

Anyway, we think a no-hole logo is just flat-out better looking.... (apologies to Barth….)

To sum up:……If you have any interest in replacing your logos, the homework has been done, and it’s just a matter of ordering. The vendor is presently setting up a place on his web site and I’ll post it here as soon as I get it……I “think” he was talking in the $38.00 range, but we’ll have to wait and see - He’s got Pay-Pal so it should be easy……

Any questions, feel free to give me a buzz off-group……

.....And to answer what may be the first question, I have absolutely zero financial incentive or business involvement in any of this……It was just a fun little project to play around with………

Note: The pic that Dave put here shows a pre-buffed prototype.....I'm no photographer, and the polished one glared back too much to see well.......






[This message has been edited by davebowers (edited December 13, 2004).]

Well, aren't you a GREAT SANTA. I want at least one when you are ready. Thank You for all the work, and my HAT'S off to YOU. Dale

Now that the picture is up I can see how neat it looks without holes. I have mounted things like this without screws many times with a few dots of clear silicone on the back. I have just taped such in place overnight, and it has worked great. On mine I will give it a BRUSHED look. Dale

That is a really nice piece of work.

I'm definitely going to order two (2)

"THE TOY" 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

Oh, that's GOOD!

You can count on me ordering at least one.

Bill G

Lee:

Thank you, I sincerely appreciate your efforts.

Timothy

Looks great, Lee. If they ever go on the market, I'll order one but don't know what to do with it except keep as a Barth memento. When I bought my house 11 years ago, I called the plant in Indiana and got the logo sent to me for the front of my house as a house marker. Very distinctive, to say the least. A lot of people don't know it's from the top-of-the-line coach company. Thank God my last name isn't Winnebago.

------------------
Bev

Lee, what a terrific job. Thanks for the hard work. I'll probably order a couple. Sniboy

quote:

Originally posted by Lee:
A little over a year ago, there was forum discussion here regarding the availability of the Barth logo plates that were usually mounted via pop rivets on the front & rear of the coaches. I was unable to locate a source for new OEM pieces, and the few deteriorated ones that I collected from various salvage yards required a full-bore restoration involving stripping the old plating, grinding down pimples, silver-soldering pits, re-plating with copper/nickel/chrome, polishing & buffing - ‘bout $100-$150 each……Ouch!

As a diversion from performing any worthwhile & meaningful work, I’ve played around with coming up with a true & faithful reproduction of the original Barth logo plate……

At our shop, we played with various types of molding, casting, stamping, etc. (With $7-10k tooling costs, die-casting was out of the question) We finally hit on scanning an OEM piece and using that to control a CNC plasma cutting machine, experimenting with mild steel, stainless, brass, aluminum, etc. Try as I might, I couldn’t get the consistent results that I thought would be up to Barth quality …..The process worked, but my less-than-stellar skill level didn’t…..

The BAD news: I was unsuccessful in producing a high quality product…..The GOOD news: I found someone who could!

I packed off our data, specs & samples to a shop in Texas and they have produced what I think is a high quality reproduction of the Barth logo plate and a deserving replacement for an OEM piece that may be worn out by the ravages of time and exposure………A few notes about the reproduction:

The repro piece is dimensionally on a 1:1 scale with the OEM (except thickness)

The OEM logo (.125” thick) was cast & chrome plated……The repro is .250” thick polished aluminum plate (without mounting holes) because:

1. Easy to work with & cut, polishes & buffs out to a near-chrome luster, and eliminates any galvanic reaction when mounted (the drip stain you may have under your logos).

2. The edge-cut is very smooth & finished looking (one of the harder parts of the job)

3. Polished aluminum eliminates plating (ie: high costs), approximates the same luster as chrome and can be maintained by an annual wipe-down with Mothers or other alum. polish.

4. No holes - While we were 98% confident that all mounting holes in the OEM pieces were identical, we weren’t totally sure. Use your old logo for hole pattern if you want. Since it’s not plated, holes are not a problem (counter-sink to match your screw or rivet heads for a flush look, etc) Better yet, use 3-M PL5200 for a permanent mount…..

Anyway, we think a no-hole logo is just flat-out better looking.... (apologies to Barth….)

To sum up:……If you have any interest in replacing your logos, the homework has been done, and it’s just a matter of ordering. The vendor is presently setting up a place on his web site and I’ll post it here as soon as I get it……I “think” he was talking in the $38.00 range, but we’ll have to wait and see - He’s got Pay-Pal so it should be easy……

Any questions, feel free to give me a buzz off-group……

.....And to answer what may be the first question, I have absolutely zero financial incentive or business involvement in any of this……It was just a fun little project to play around with………

Note: The pic that Dave put here shows a pre-buffed prototype.....I'm no photographer, and the polished one glared back too much to see well.......




[This message has been edited by davebowers (edited December 13, 2004).]

Finally got the Vendor's URL for the BARTH logo reproductions....Go to:

http://www.onlinemetalgraphics.net/barth.html

...and don't let the webpage pic confuse you....they come highly polished & buffed, resembling a plated finish.....

This is a small, custom shop, and the owner has been great to work with....Special requests should be directed to Robert Underwood at:

http://www.onlinemetalgraphics.net/contact.html

(Dale, you mentioned a brushed finish...I'm sure they'd finish to any specs you wanted)

Hope this project has value to Barth lovers.....

I have ordered two(2)BARTH logos and I like the idea of no mounting holes,but what is 3m
5200 and where do you purchase it??


THE TOY 88 33' Regal SE Coach #3448

Carl,

It's used heavily in the boating business....Most good marine supply houses will carry it....If not, Google in "3-m PL-5200".....lot's of web site suppliers....

Hint: Think of other ways to use it at the same time as logo mounting...It's got a shelf life after opening, and at about $14.00/tube, it shouldn't be wasted....It can be used for sealing, caulking & attaching purposes for just about any application.....

It is also available in smaller squeezable tubes for less money.

There is also 3M 4200 which is also a polyurethane, but can actually removed without dynamite.

3M also sells a cement and a tape (see post my Mike Cou below) especially for mounting metal trim, but the designation excapes me. Check an auto paint shop.

And, of course, Shoe Goo. I have performed miracles with it. It is also a polyurethane.

I have friends who swear by Gorilla glue.

[This message has been edited by bill h (edited December 24, 2004).]

Ya know Bill, me thinks that any of the consumer grade, two-part, fast-setting epoxy adhesives would probably work fine for this job...It's just that I've never used it and I'd hate to catch heat from someone with a $45 logo laying somewhere along the interstate...

Good to hear that 5200 is available in small tubes..... THAT'S the route I'd suggest.....
If Noah had used PL-5200 on the ark, he'd probably have it moored at some marina today.

Gorilla Glue* is fantastic stuff...... Experimental Aircraft groupies luv it, but only for hidden joints....It does tend to foam-up at the edges & needs trimming after setting.....Also should have clamp pressure during initial expansion cycle...Not really a good alternative when appearance counts......

*Once opened, store bottle upside down - the air moisture trapped in the bottle is enough to set it off...skins over like elephant hide!