Dave:

Nice find wow.

I wonder where that is? Well offshore with an offshore breeze, maybe north shore someplace; someplace I’ll never surf.

I would not even get close to the water if the swell was pumping like that. I’d die in the shore break.

I lived for a year on the north shore, one day I went out when rocky point was pumping maybe 8 or 9 feet; I ,paddling, (but that jet ski looks like the way to go) did get enough speed to catch a wave and ride it in. Yep I rode one wave when rocky point was about 1/4 the size, probably less, of that wave in the movie; and I rode that one wave on my belly with a death grip on the board.

When I got back to the house, we lived quite a ways down the beach past back doors, I was still more than just weak in the knees.

I did surf the point when it was 5 feet maybe 6, I still can’t believe I did that; I suppose there is something about the locals chanting hey f*(^ing haole boy you gonna surf or just sit out here until they build you a house?

Timothy

My biggest day, next to the 4 footers at Hollywood by the Sea in Oxnard, was bodysurfing the Wedge in Newport Beach. I remember many times getting stuck at the top of a wave and looking down 12 feet to sand. My 16 year old body was very resilient then. I had a 9foot 4 in. board then that was really wide. I loved that board till Hank Lowry plowed it into the rocks. Had it fixed but never was right after that. As if I could tell. hehe

A few years ago we rented a house on Stinson Beach for a week. I remember getting hit square in the back with an 18 inch wave and I thought I was gonna die. Hate getting older.

Hi,
just thought you might like to know that picture is at a place called Mavericks off the coast in Half Moon Bay California. They have a huge surf contest there every year. They tow the surfers out to the wave by jet ski. You can see more here: http://www.mavsurfer.com/