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Ordered three gal of Kool Seal (?) today for the roof of my 28' Regal. Any pitfalls to be aware of prior to beginning application? Do you remove all the covers and such first or just "paint" as close as possible? Do you apply with a brush or a roller? Am I an idiot for trying this myself? While you're here, how about the replacement of a powered roof vent? I assume the biggest hurdle will be removal of the old and proper sealing of the new. I'll swap my hard earned knowledge of AirRide suspension installation for any roofing advise. :-) [This message has been edited by ron (edited March 25, 2003).] | |||
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"First Year of Inception" Membership Club |
Hi Ron, By email I just sent you a pdf on the Anvil 400 material which is on your roof now. Her is the website and installation instructions. http://www.anvilpaints.com/products/0400.html Whether you change your vents or not we found that the Maxxair products are great because you can then keep your vents open in the rain or while traveling. They are only twenty some dollars and are great. You were talking about a fantastic vent which is great. Make sure you get the Maxxair that is specially designed for it. And by the way, another cheap add which is worth it is the WindowMaxx. They are very cheap and then you can have your windows cracked in a rain storm. | |||
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Thanks Dave. Got the article/link. Also have the MaxxAir rooftop vent covers already but was considering the WindowMaxx items. I'll try those also next time I get over to Camper's Choice. Ordered a set (4) of those scissors-type levelers for the Barth. It'd be nice to have hydraulics, but $3500 is a bit harder on the checkbook than $180! I figure I'll throw in a cheap electric impact wrench and be the envy of all the neighbors. :-) | ||||
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Ron, Regarding the Kool-Seal portion of your question, I've done my 30' Breakaway twice over the last six years. Took about 1.5 gallons each time. I used a paintbrush to do around all the trim work first then got the big roller for the big flat surfaces. It took not quite one full day each time. Major improvement...knocks interior temperatures maybe 10 degrees in full summer sun. For preparation, just a good wash job of the top will do, but non-Barths may require Kool-Seal's patching compound to plug holes but Barths don't have holes in the roof, do they? Be sure the roof is well-dried before applying the Kool-Seal. Don't apply if evening temps go below 50F (I think ... it's on the can) and for sure don't even think about this job if ANY chance of rain. If any rain before it dries, big ugly white streaks down the sides. I just replaced my bathroom vent with a new Jensen metal vent. The old one had a plastic base which cracked faster than I could patch it. The new metal one also has the advantage of a "no-drilling" mount system. Each of the four corners has a screw clamp which holds it tightly against the roof without any drilling into the exterior. The original had 20 to 24 rivets through the plastic base (which I think caused the multiple cracks in the first place). The other advantage is that I can remove and replace the new one entirely with no damage in about 1/2 hour should maintenance, resealing, etc. be required. | ||||
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"Liquid Roof" is the best stuff I've found.... EVER! I've tried them all, and this stuff is great. It's a two-part catalyst EPDM rubber compound. It mixes up a thick liquid, I've applied it with a turkey baster... cures hard, like rubber. Even better, you can thin it with Mineral spirits enough so that it will seep into any little cracks. good for a first coat around known leak areas. Once you do that, you can roll it onto the roof skin to form a one-piece solid sheet. VERY cool stuff. VERY expensive, about $15.00 per quart at RV dealers, but you can go on-line and order gallons direct from the manufacturer a LOT cheaper! This stuff is INCREDIBLE. You owe it to yourself to try it. | ||||
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I'm sorry I didn't find this forum sooner... the Kool-Seal I've used in the past quickly gets brittle and begins to flake... the "Liquid-Roof" does not... stays like hard rubber! Negligible UV degradation, etc. I say say as FAR AWAY from Kool Seal as you can.... | ||||
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First Month Member 11/13 |
Amen to that on the Liquid Roof. I even sealed the infamous Southwind leak at the front cap to roof joint. As far as replacing the roof vent, I have both a Fantastic and a Turbomaxx. Both are good, but I like the TM a little better. Quieter, and it's more efficient at low and med settings if you buy the one with the thermostat. | |||
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4/08 "5+ Years of Active Membership" |
Who makes the "Liquid Roof" coating. I'm planning of recoating my Regency's roof before the cold weather sets in and am having a hard time locating a source to purchase the Anvil Roof Coating that Dave mentioned. | |||
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What are you using to seal around vents ,horns,dish,ect. I to have to do my roof before bonneville and a hunderd other things Good Luck BRES | ||||
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Liquid Roof can be found at: http://www.Liquid-Roof.com/mainframe.htm Tele: 1-866-311-EPDM --------------------------------------- Anvil #400 can be found at: http://www.anvilpaints.com/products/0400.html ---------------------------------------- Good Luck Al Benton 88 Regency 40' | ||||
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Hi Ron, I have a 28 regal (85) also. I have done the kool seal twice, once about 8 years ago, and again about 2 weeks ago. The 1st time I replaced the fans with 2 fantastic fans. They went in easy, I drilled out the old rivets, and I think I used stainless screws to hold them in. Then I used the Kool seal patch on the seams before I coated the roof. The patch stays rubbery like the other stuff mentioned here. When I did it the second time, I took off the ac covers, washed the roof with trisodium phosphate,used the patch on all seams (fans, antenna, light, horn) then put 2 coats of kool seal. My ac covers looked real dirty so I used Behr deck cleaner (home depot) full strength, they look like new. Now I have to Tackle new air bags in front, any advice? Mike | ||||
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"5+ Years of Active Membership" |
I purchased 4 gallons of liquid roof from the following site : http://www.jnkproducts.com/liquid_roof/ Havn't applied it yet so no comment on how it works but this was the least expensive site - they included free shipping Hope 4 gallons coverd a 33' ------------------ [This message has been edited by kc_rusty (edited September 01, 2003).] | |||
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I finally just bought the Kool-Seal and hand brushed it on. Re sealed the AC and fan openings with a calk product and did the rivet lines before the Kool Seal application. Those Fantastin Fans are the ticket, but I find that if you don't have a window cracked a bit, the fan will pull fumes through the closet where the Gen sits. About those WindowMaxx pieces, hmmmmm, I don't like the idea of restricting the opening to 4". I bought a couple of the louveres, but have been staring at the instructions and cannot bring myself to put them in place yet. BTW: their prices have increased a bit since you paid $20. :-) | ||||
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1/09 |
got to do my roof is Liquid Roof still whats recomended? | |||
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6/12 Formally known as "Humbojb" |
If you want even more info to confuse you go to "search" & enter "roof sealant" & My post was "How we recoated our roof" you'll have a good days reading. There are lots of pictures too! I used a seam sealer(napa grey-used for tractor trailer seams)3quarts brushed on- for all the rivets & seams & around the vents & then rolled on two coats of anvil 400-special ordered through sherwin williams. I did not remove AC units just the covers & brushed Anvil as far as I could get under ac unit. we have a 28' MH & it took one gallon for two coats. Cost about $65 for seam sealer & anvil 400. I figured it lasted 25 years the first time in the weather it could go at least 25 more garaged. Some folks sanded their roof down to bare aluminum but I wasn't that motivated. I scraped & pulled off anything that I could, sanded & primed the bare spots then applied the seam sealer & two coats of the anvil. Good luck. Tere
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