Not been too bad of week solved a multitude of silly little problems, water leaks, fuel to air leaks, stubborn fittings and an error in the propane piping line.

Got the water heater completed, propane, water and electric. All the propane had leaked out so have to go get some before the test, maybe tomorrow. Believe I have that leak fixed, probably my fault just not connected correctly.

Today I finally got that pesky fuel line to flow to the
generator. Just a leaky rubber tube, hard to find, and not easy to get at for sure. Learned also that unlike most fuel pickup lines for generators this one does not pickup when the tank is somewhere around 1/2, not 1/4 like the other Barth's in my past. Had the body all the way up on the rear air-ride, had to lower it to get the generator fuel with maybe 3/4 of a tank. good thing to know for sure. Generator does put out enough power to run the roof A/C!!

So now get the fridge running and test the furnace, then all systems will be a go!!!

Wanted to go to Warsaw Indiania for Barth days at the campground, but got an Email, that there was not much interest this year, so they cancelled. Really hate to see Barth interest declining, any ideas how to spark some????

Duane please think about the beefy filter you have going to the motor. Where/when are you pulling the fuel for the generator. Don’t want to have issues with the generator.

Sounds like you are making step by step progress. Keep it up.

It is interesting we can’t seem to find the secret to engaging the Facebook folks or even more Barthmobilers. Everyone is busy with their own lives I guess.

Hey on the Generator filter, gonna put one in before it gets run again!!

There are still a lot of Barth's out there, they are unique, and one would think their owners would enjoy doing things like that!

71 is still a pain in the ass!! But of the 3 Barth's and Winnebago RV's in my history, this one is my favorite!!

Went and got some propane, put some water in the fresh water tank, started the pump and presto 3 water leaks. Was positive a few weeks ago it was leak free!! The damn gremlins were at work again!! Too hot so go crawling around today, but I did note the leak locations.

Put a clear fuel filter in the generator fuel line, was happy to see the entry side fuel is really quite clean, guess the Minnesnowta trip, draining the tank several times, plus all the running around has cleaned up the tank. Been through about 4 tanks of gas total.

How can anyone not love a Barth!!!

Got the water leaks fix, the previous owner just never winterized ole 71. Split lines everywhere, because the hot water heater leaked, I never got pressure in the hot water side of the system, when it saw pressure, the split line leaked like crazy, replaced with PEX and new fittings to match.

The water heater had a plastic drain fitting and it would not stop dripping, so of course when a whole lot of tightening was applied, broke the top off the plug! Dug out the threaded part and now will replace it with a brass one. Still have to get the heater working!

Another hot day in Iowa, but I have smartened up a bit and ran the roof A/C, that seems to be the only thing the PO has not screwed up!!!

After checking the water heater, the furnace and get the fridge running all systems will be a go!! Maybe start the make me a pretty Barth stage!!

Moving right along with the comfort systems on ole 71.

Worked on the fridge yesterday, thought it would be best to get it running on electric first. First problem was the system heating element is an open circuit. This old-style unit is a three-way, gas, 120 and 12 volts. It is really old school with a switch that selects gas or electric and a 2nd switch that selects 12 or 120 volts, none of this fancy circuit board stuff, Norcold and Dometic might take a lesson!!

It has a two-circuit heating element similar to the newer 3-way Dometic units and probably could use the element used in them. No parts available for this fridge. That 3-way element is about $150. Don't think the 12 volts side ever gets used very much, so decided to just buy the 120 volt element for $18 and call it a day. Gonna get that and make sure the Absorption cooling system works before tearing into the gas side.

On to the furnace. This is an International, never heard of it either!! All the components look almost brand new. Jumped right in barefoot!! Jumped the blower motor, 12 volts and it worked fine, jumped the gas valve also functional. Tried to light the pilot, instructions are fairly simple to follow, could not get the piezo igniter to spark. Got out the wooden match box and manually lighted the pilot valve, reasonably easy to do. Turned the thermostat all the way up (it is over 90F today) and switched the unit on, the burner lighted. Let it burn for a minute or so, but the blower motor did not turn on, turned the unit off and waited a couple of minutes hoping it would give the thermocouple to the blower adequate time to sense it was hot, did not want to burn the coach down! Turned the unit back on and bingo the blower turned on and the burner ignited. Sometime after it has cooled down will let it hopefully start everything normally. Ordered a Piezo igniter from Ebay.

Too hot to get the water heater going today, a cooler day job.

Got the fridge heating element and installed it, been a couple of hours and there is some cooling starting on the inside freezer and cooling fins!! Beginning to think the absorption unit works!!

The water heater is another story, put the brass plug in and stopped the water leak. checked the thermostat and over temp safety unit they both seem to be fine. There is a spark safety in the power line, and it is ok too (not much more than a fuse). The service manual tells how to check the circuit board, unfortunately if that method is correct the power, no spark bulb and valve circuits are all blown. Steve told me it was working when Ed removed it. I probably did something stupid and blew it up!!! Not a real big problem a new one on Ebay is about $35, ordered one.

Have not received the piezo spark igniter for the furnace. Started the furnace by lighting the pilot with a match again this time let the flame start and waited for the blower to turn on, it did take a minute or so. Turned the heat down and let it shut of as it would in use and it behaved like it should, all that's left is get the igniter and make sure it will light the pilot!!

As I recall that was a 3 wire system on the water heater. There is one wire for ground and one +12V wire from thermostat to call for heat. The blue wire is for the status light. When you first call for heat, the blue wire sends power to the light. When ignition occurs, the light goes out. I never hooked it up when I had it.

You are making steady progress. Good luck with further steps!

Correct Steve, except the status light.

The next step is the direct spark ignition system. For a period of 6-8 seconds the circuit
board will send voltage to both the gas solenoid valve and the electrodes. If ignition does
not occur, the board goes into a lock-out condition and the non-ignition light illuminated at
the ON/OFF switch

From the service manual.

The refrigerator seems to work on 120 volt electric. Decided it was time to try the gas side, the controls are all inside the Barth, turned the gas on got in the Barth, the gas fired right up and the flame signal even let me know it had ignited. went outside to look at unit and all of sudden it just ignited in flame ran around the coach and shut the gas off at the source. Even if I had bubble soap tested the whole thing it would not have been detected until the electric valve turned on and shot gas to absorption unit. The short time it was in flames it melted the insulation on a few wires.

Lesson learned " don't use a gas appliance that has been sitting for a long time without someone looking at flame area"!!!!

Pulling the valve is real pain, still working on getting it out, just taking a break now!! Curious how to make sure it does not leak or if it can be repaired, might just buy a new one and call it a day, if one can be found that will function and fit.

Got the ignition board for the water heater, but the gas circuit is open at the fridge so need to either figure out how to plug it or wait until it is fixed. Strange there is not a manual shut of valve for the fridge.

Gremlins still in ole 71!!

On the boat the fridge is 120 but the supply is the inverter so it never sees a loss of power. With 4, can be 6 batteries on board and power switches we haven't missed ice for happy hour

quote:

it just ignited in flame

Duane, that is the 2nd most scariest story I've read in Barthmobile! I am glad you are OK, and I am glad your presence of mind saved "71" as well!

Matt

Be sure to check the flue/chimney before you try it again. I have seen blockages from squirrels stashing acorns. Spiderwebs and leaves, too. If the flue does not draw, the flames will come out the side. Most LP appliance fires are due to lack of regular cleanouts.

Getting closer to road ready!

Tim if you have a Norcold marine fridge, that compressor uses alternating current to vibrate and pump the freon. I always thought that was a pretty cool design (pun intended).

Yes, Matt damn scary and Steve I will defiantly check the flue!

There is not a direct replacement for this manual selector valve, one dial switch selects gas or electric, the other dial sets temperature.

Looks like the replacement will have to function with new parts, yet to be determined.

Got the circuit board for the water heater, and the igniter for the furnace, Both by USPS and on time!! Put a plug in the refrigerator gas line, and opened the propane gas valve checked for leaks "lesson learned"!!

First installed the furnace igniter. Got a spark immediately, but it took many tries to get it to ignite the pilot, believe the gas may have had some air from the empty line mixed in and did not want to ignite with the spark. It is still a pain in the ass to ignite, have to take the front of furnace off to get at the igniter and once lighted hold the pilot button until it senses the pilot flame heat, it is almost as easy just to light the pilot with a match. Will see as time goes by. The good thing is it works fine!!!

Moved on to the water heater, removed and installed the replacement circuit board, pretty much a piece of cake for a change!! Turned the water pump on and plugged in the board edge connector, used the existing one even though a new one was provided. Had previously wired in a "On/Off" switch and the no flame detection light. The scary part the "on" switch is of course in the coach and remembering the refrigerator fiasco, hit the switch and ran my old ass outside to look at the heater as fast as possible, all was fine Thank you, fellow upstairs!! Man, that is one big flame, and one can hear it from inside the coach!! There is not a gas shut off valve, going to put one in before any real use. Heater seems to function well!!!

Still have not figured out how to replumb and rewire the fridge, the old parts are just not available anymore. Keep working on what to do with it. It works fine on 120 volts so I may just rewire that until the gas problem is solved.

Other than the fridge all systems are a go someone set up a GTG and lets party!!