That's why I liked the mini starter, you can clock the solenoid to hang down, wires in the clear

Back in the day I found aluminum foil was good for more than making hats to keep the aliens away. I used it for fuel lines and exhausts close to "stuff". Might be worth a try, it is good at heat transfer, more crinkle more surface for transfer. Another thought is consideration of wire heat insulation, some of the single wires have a pretty high heat resistance to frying like 325F. fwiw good luck, Tim
Was typing while Steve was replying, like his option, might even use alien insulation with his option.

Might trying searching starter heat shield. There’s a bunch of info there. If I remember right they use a high temp solenoid on the 454. I use to wrap my wires with a high heat wrap.
I used the advanced search.

Ralph

You can wrap the header pipes with tape sold at parts stores as well.

I sure wish I had headers instead of the big ole cast iron manifold, there is no room to wrap it with insulation tape.

So the first one lasted for 60,000 if it was not changed out and I think it may have been. If a failure happens its new wires and SteveVW's mini starter for the ole nose, might just get it and carry it as a spare.

Jegs does make a starter wrap but I would have to cut all kinds of slots and holes to clear the wires. Might not do much good after the modifcations.

Headers, TBI, Mini-starter, The nose is draining my resources..I may hate P30 engineers and accountants but I do love this old machine, it just feels good to go down the road in.

We had been talking about Valve seals in another thread thought I would move it to here.

So I got new seals ordered, the umbrella type from Enginetech, they say their silicon is good for both exhaust and intake. Any opinion on positive verses umbrella?

I was out looking today and I am going to have remove a lot of stuff just to get access for a compression test, so I guess I will do the seal swap at the same time. Just reinstalled the A/C compressor a few weeks ago. have to move it hope I do not have to disconnect it.

I bought a spring compressor tool, I could not find the lever type around here, so I got the screw type. Is there two springs per valve, if so I am screwed with this tool, I guess.

Ok so I saw a few videos of changing the seals with the heads on, one said I need at least 120 pounds of air pressure, my compressor will only do 90 or so tops, I guess I can rent one....comments!!!!

There seems to be another method, sticking some, about 5 foot of soft nylon .25 inch rope in the cylinder through the spark plug hole and squeezing the valve closed using the piston, sounds more positive....comments?

So here I sit parts should be here soon... lol

The rope trick works. I should have mentioned that. I have done it that way. No way to drop the valve in that way.

The double valve springs should have a single top retainer with standard taper keys. Same removal process as single spring.

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The double valve springs should have a single top retainer with standard taper keys. Same removal process as single spring.

Steve looks like the compressor I bought will only grab the outside coils low and squeeze against the top retainer when I tighten the screw, and that will leave the inside spring still pushing against the top retainer and head. I think only a lever type compressor will push on both springs. Probably like the one you have. Was there 2 springs on your 7.4?

So pie d squared over 4, assuming 1 inch diameter valve x 90 psi==90x.7854 about 70 pounds should hold up the valve don't ya think??? I think if anyone could break the seal I would be the one to do it, rope trick here I come.

Sounds lke you are right on the compressor problem. The lever style uses the ball stud for the fulcrum, pushes both springs down together from above.

I'll have to get back to you on the double springs. Good question. The 454 HO has them but I never pulled them off the stock engine.

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I'll have to get back to you on the double springs. Good question. The 454 HO has them but I never pulled them off the stock engine.

Seems like I might be safe, I looked at replacement springs on Rock Auto, there is something inside but its not a spring some kind of guard I think anyway does not seem to have any compression power. I wonder if new springs are in order.

So rope in the spark plug hole lots of repetitive work. Warm up next week. We shall see how the compression test goes.

Thanks!!!!!

Got the compression test finished, all cylinders were 130 +/- a couple of pounds. So not the best but acceptable?????

Plugs were all brown or tan tipped, what does that mean?

So time to pull the Valve covers and try to change the valve seals.

Is there anyway that under load oil leaks but does not stick or show up under the chassis?
Let y'all know about the seals tomorrow if I work up the energy.

Tan and even means good combustion. 130 compression and balanced across all 8 means good engine. So why mess with seals? If they were leaking the plugs would be black, the engine would smoke, and your back bumper would be full of soot. Sounds like all is well!

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posted 04-19-2018 07:21 PMHide PostTan and even means good combustion. 130 compression and balanced across all 8 means good engine. So why mess with seals? If they were leaking the plugs would be black, the engine would smoke, and your back bumper would be full of soot. Sounds like all is well!

All sounds good, but it burns 2 quarts of oil in 400 miles. No smoke, no puddle under the coach. Something is not right, have you got an idea??

The tail pipes are a bit black.

I am not sure if this means anything, but the upper part of this engine is really very clean.

Engine rear main seal , but should show at least some oil on the ground.
Any oil on the transmission & farther back ?

My stock engine was using about that much oil & was rear seal.
Most older coaches leak there from sitting too much & seal dries out.

Bob

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Engine rear main seal , but should show at least some oil on the ground.

Oh boy I hope not there is a few drops of oil dribbling down the rear of the engine, but not enough to even put a spot on the driveway. No oil further back on the chassis or transmission. I should think with that much oil leaking it would be a real mess under there.

Bob what did yours look like in the back area??