Tere and I have decided to sell our Breakaway. It will be a fine, dependable Barth for the new owner.
1993 Breakaway
28-BS-1B 28'4" overall length.
Cummins 5.9 190 HP from factory
Allison 4-speed
Pac Brake
50 Amp Electrical Service
Bilstein Shocks New 2013
Spartan Chassis
HWH Levelers (4)
Kohler 7000 LP Generator 264 hours
Front Tires Goodyear G670 New 2013
Rear Tires Bridgestone 8R19.5 3 New 2011 1 New 2013
Dometic Roof Air 13500BTU w/ Heat Strip
Hydroflame Thermostatically controlled furnace (1)
Hydronic furnace (1)
Dash Air (Engine Powered)
Crank up conventional TV antenna
Crank up satellite TV antenna
21" LED TV (1)
13" CRT TV (2)
Direct TV receiver
Sirius Radio set up
AM/FM/CD in dash player
CB Radio
Air over Hydraulic Braking
Intermittent Windshield Wiper System
Factory installed Security System
Fantastic Fans (2)
Water Heater 6 Gallon LP/110
Refrigerator 7.7 Cu Ft AC/DC/LP
Cruise Control
Power Steering
Micro/Convection Oven
Smoke Detector/LP Gas Alarm
Back up TV monitor and alarm
Zip Dee Awnings (4)
House/Chassis batteries new 11/2010
18000# GVWR
Spot Light Roof Mounted
Air Horns Roof Mounted
Queen Sized dual adjusting air bed
Convertible Sofa Bed
Macerator
Driver Seat Leather 6-way power
Passenger Seat Leather manual adjust
Corian Counter Tops Kitchen and Bath
Auto Fill System
Front Electric Step

We have gone through this Barth from front to back. What needed fixed is fixed. Everything works. This Breakaway is very nice inside and the exterior paint is in good shape. No roof or window leaks. The underside is very clean. This is a California Coach. $17900. Drive it anywhere.
Will post pictures later this afternoon. For the moment, Knoxville Craigs List has the pics.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/rvs/4073801361.html

I'm confused...

Have Barth, will travel.

No. That's the 30'.

Kevin, I have one of the original brochures. It says '28 and 30 foot diesel pushers" on it with floor plans for just those two lengths. The one in the Ebay includes 33'. Don't know when 33' became an option. There's no date on my brochure

Please note that I've revised the listing to include a second 'hydronic furnace'. I think this may be a very unusual set up. This second source of heat provides two ducts into the back hallway as well as one into the bathroom. It works off the hot water heater. I've never seen this set up before and it is a very nice option. You can provide some morning heat just off the hot water heater without turning on the main furnace.

Ed, you might be right. Tere took some pics which she will post soon. When you look in the curbside bedroom closet, you see the hot water heater to the right. Then there are several plumbing pipes with three round off/on faucet handles that go into a rectangular box about 18" square. There are two large ducts, about 4" in diameter that come out of this box and are connected to two outlets in the curbside rear hallway. In addition, there is a small duct, about 2 1/2" diameter that goes to an out let in the bathroom. I'm not sure where this duct comes from since I haven't traced it down but it appears to be coming from the engine area. The round handles tell me that you do something to turn this device off and on. Like maybe let the hot water from the water heater flow through the 18" box? The PO didn't have a clue what it was and there are no manuals in the files to shed any light on the subject. Like we always say, a picture says a thousand words.
Jim

Normally, the term "hot water heater" is a redundant misnomer. Not in this case. Jim has a normal water heater appliance AND plumbing to both supplement the heat in the water heater (hot water heater ;^) as well as provide fintube-to-air heat exchange for room comfort. It was quite an expensive option and certainly is on a number of high end coaches now.

Our 86 Regal was equipped this way. On my dash is a 2 speed fan control switch for the rear heater. It does have shut off valves next to the water heater. I am like Ed in that it nice to have hot water when you stop, You just have to be aware that it really hot water. I'm guessing close to 200 Deg.

I did have a fitting on 76 Class C fracture at water heater causing me to loose my engine coolant. Right now that system is bypassed.

My 35 Regency had a heater under the booth seating that circulated hot water from the engine to heat fan air to the area under the coach where the the black, grey and potable tanks were located.

It kept this area from freezing up while traveling in the winter if the generator wasn't running. There was a 110V heater unit that worked to do the same when we had shore or genertor power. There seemed to be a back up for everthing and it all worked.

ED.

Ed, maybe I was misunderstood.
I believe Jim has two (optional, extra-cost) devices to scavenge engine heat. (1) A heat exchanger that uses hot engine coolant to supplement the standard electric and/or LP fuel for the domestic water heater (2) a heat exchanger that uses hot engine coolant for warming living space air.
Without this feature the coach (like a house) does not have a HOT water HEATER, merely a water heater.
Normally, the appliance, tank or tankless, heats COLD water. Thus it is really a COLD water heater, not a hot water heater (but for the supplemental engine coolant loop).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_water_heater
http://www.suburbanwaterheater.net/

Living space heating by hot fluid (hydronic) is normally done with a convector, not a radiator. Living space heating by steam is normally via a radiator (in HVAC speak).
Jim's heat exchangers are neither.
"hot water heater" is one of those erroneous terms that has such widespread use that it is accepted nearly like the proper term, much in the way that "data" is commonly, and improperly, treated as if it were a singular noun, ie. "The data is convincing." The correct usage, "The data are convincing" sounds wrong to people.

Folks, let's stay on topic - which is the Breakaway offered for sale. A bit of thread drift can be informative and entertaining, but this isn't the thread to diverge into semantics and definitions.

Thanks!

Here are the pics of the heating unit on the left.


Here it is with the ducts going into the bathroom.

Jim, easy way to tell where the lines come from. With the hot water heater off and no heated water in the system, start the engine and see if those lines get warm. If they do then it is an engine heater.

On the back of the hot water heater would be a "U" shaped pipe that is welded to the back is an engine assist to the hot water heater so that while running down the road the engine coolant will heat the water in that 6 gallon tank.

I placed a small orifice in these lines to the hot water heater assist to reduce the water flow through that "U" pipe so that the water in the tank would not get so hot. After 10 hours driving I still have to be careful, it is very hot water.

Make sure that you have the dash heat to full so you have maximum circulation.

You may have a switch somewhere for the fan in this unit as Kevin says. The switch on my Breakaway above my left shoulder is for the engine block heater. The switch for the hall heater was an unlabeled switch on the dash.

All I had was a radiator with a fan mounted so that the exit heated air would be pushed into the hallway. The radiator had a leak so I removed it. I have another radiator but to lazy to install. I have enough heat from the dash system while running down the road and we tend not to go in super cold weather.

Other than the obvious green ground to the heat exchanger cabinet, I wonder what the mishmash of wires is. does not look like factory routing. I suppose the copper tubing and valves create a bypass to keep coolant from circulating through the heat exchanger in warm weather.